Easiest B&W process

[tobenama]

Sorry for being a total newbie on B&W processing, which is something I've never done. I do have the necessary hardware for processing films (daylight tank, film clips, funnel, measurement beakers, temperature meter, plastic bottles, timer software on iPad), but I've just not done any processing yet. So, can you help me in what is the easiest way of processing B&W films at home? I'm going to use 35 mm film and would prefer the cheapest film I can get (since B&W films are locally quite expensive). Can you provide me links to guides etc. to easy B&W processing with chemicals that are commonly available in Europe? I know easy chemicals, but just the shipping for 1L fixer was over 50 EUR, so no thanks to über expensive solutions. I'd prefer a process that does not take very long, is not easy to screw up and has the minimal amount of different chemicals and steps in processing. I'd also prefer to skip exotic chemicals, because unless they are shipped from Europe, the shipping cost will kill the idea. Also tips on where to buy cheap B&W film are very welcome. At least Fomapan seems to be on the cheaper end in Europe, but you may know better choices for just a little more, so opinions are very welcome also. The local tap water is according to the city very soft and does not contain chemicals such as fluoride etc., so I guess it's good enough for film processing.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Kodak HC-110 comes in small package for amount of films developing. It could be used in different concentration to have very short, moderate and stand developing times.
It is very forging developer with stable, predictable and not weird results. It is very popular and well known, plenty of accurate information for almost any film. You could use it for push/pull and info is also available.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/search_text.php?Developer=HC-110

If you want to go dirt cheap and no shipping for developer - caffenol or another alternative developers http://www.caffenol.org/

You don't really need stop bath, use water.

Kodak powder fixer works great for film, keep it the bottle without air and it will lasts long time and many films.

Here is no cheap substitute for Kodak Photo Flo, but one cap per 1L will lasts long. By the time you will quit film photography the bottle of photo flo will be only half empty

 

[tobenama]

Kodak HC-110 comes in small package for amount of films developing. It could be used in different concentration to have very short, moderate and stand developing times.
Kodak powder fixer works great for film, keep it the bottle without air and it will lasts long time and many films.
Here is no cheap substitute for Kodak Photo Flo, but one cap per 1L will lasts long. By the time you will quit film photography the bottle of photo flo will be only half empty

So am I right that I'd need only a bottle of Kodak HC-110, Kodak Photo Flo and Kodak powder fixer? All these are something I can easily mailorder and shipping is very affordable.

 

[spijker]

In which country are you located? Ilford and Tetenal chemistry is made in Europe and should be easy to get. Liquids are easier to use but more expensive to ship. If you're starting out. Ilford has some good information here: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=16 Also Youtube may have some good videos.

 

[Fixcinater]

You don't need Photoflo, I use just HC110 and whatever fixer I have handy. Makes for less bottles laying around and less confusion when I have time to develop.

 

[tobenama]

In which country are you located? Ilford and Tetenal chemistry is made in Europe and should be easy to get. Liquids are easier to use but more expensive to ship. If you're starting out. Ilford has some good information here: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=16 Also Youtube may have some good videos.

I'm in Finland and most of the common chemicals are either available locally or can be ordered from Germany (macodirect.de).

 

[tobenama]

You don't need Photoflo, I use just HC110 and whatever fixer I have handy. Makes for less bottles laying around and less confusion when I have time to develop.

What types of film have you been using? Sounds like an easy process I'm aiming at.

 

[Slixtiesix]

You can also order from Foto-Impex or Nordfoto. I think they ship to Finland. There are other (smaller) dealers as well. If film is expensive in your locality, mail order larger amounts and put them in the fridge or freezer. As for the developer, this is a personal matter of taste. If you really need to save on shipping costs, buy powders (developer as well as fixer) and mix them at home. Ilford ID11 and Perceptol or Kodak D76 are classic and proven powder developers. Also, powders will last forever. Otherwise, buy any modern rapid fixer like Tetenal Superfix, Ilford Rapid Fixer, Adox Rapid Fixer ect. Unfortunately I dont know any rapid fixer that can be had as powder.

 

[spijker]

I'm in Finland and most of the common chemicals are either available locally or can be ordered from Germany (macodirect.de).

In that case, my suggestion is to stick to what's available locally to save on shipping cost. Get a general purpose film developer and follow the instructions of the manufacturer for development times, agitation etc. If you can afford it, get Stop and a wetting agent as well as it make the process less error prone. A bottle of wetting agent will last a life time. I'm in a place with soft water as well but still use Photoflo. Film wise, start of with a quality film even though it costs more. I have no experience with Foma film but the cheapest may not be the greatest when you're starting out. Personally I use Ilford film and chemicals and that works well for me.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

So am I right that I'd need only a bottle of Kodak HC-110, Kodak Photo Flo and Kodak powder fixer? All these are something I can easily mailorder and shipping is very affordable.

Yes, those three will get you going. I recommend to take two packs of the fixer powder in initial shipment.
No idea how available it is in Finland. I used to work and visit Suomi for years, but I wasn't in film photography then.

 

[MattKing]

Here are some great resources: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Don't worry too much about the specific products referred to in those resources. In most cases, you can mix manufacturers (e.g. HC-110 from Kodak and fixer from Ilford) if availability concerns mandate that.

HC-110 + vigorous water rinse + Kodak powdered fixer + Photoflo is a great combination though.

With the Photoflo, you usually only need to use a tiny amount of the concentrate each time. Start with a single drop in 600ml in a separate container. Search through APUG for threads on the subject.

Have fun!

 

[Sirius Glass]

PhotoFlo is inexpensive and one bottle last forever. It helps avoid streaking problems on the negative. Well worth a few dollars for it.

I use XTOL. Take a look a this comparison and you can see why. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...wFilmProcessing/selecting.jhtml?pq-path=14053

 

[Fixcinater]

What types of film have you been using? Sounds like an easy process I'm aiming at.

I've used it for everything from Pan F 50 to TMZ 3200. Is it ideal or best at any one thing? No, but it is quite versatile and gives me negs I can make look like what I want to see. I adjust the other variables like negative size or film speed if I want to reduce grain, for instance.

 

[John Bragg]

Sorry for being a total newbie on B&W processing, which is something I've never done. I do have the necessary hardware for processing films (daylight tank, film clips, funnel, measurement beakers, temperature meter, plastic bottles, timer software on iPad), but I've just not done any processing yet. So, can you help me in what is the easiest way of processing B&W films at home? I'm going to use 35 mm film and would prefer the cheapest film I can get (since B&W films are locally quite expensive). Can you provide me links to guides etc. to easy B&W processing with chemicals that are commonly available in Europe? I know easy chemicals, but just the shipping for 1L fixer was over 50 EUR, so no thanks to über expensive solutions. I'd prefer a process that does not take very long, is not easy to screw up and has the minimal amount of different chemicals and steps in processing. I'd also prefer to skip exotic chemicals, because unless they are shipped from Europe, the shipping cost will kill the idea. Also tips on where to buy cheap B&W film are very welcome. At least Fomapan seems to be on the cheaper end in Europe, but you may know better choices for just a little more, so opinions are very welcome also. The local tap water is according to the city very soft and does not contain chemicals such as fluoride etc., so I guess it's good enough for film processin

 

[John Bragg]

I would go for Kodak HC-110 or the equivalent Ilfotec HC or Tetenal Neopress. These developers are very long lasting and highly economical and versatile. If shipping costs are high then this will help to spread the cost as many (125 or more) rolls can be developed from one bottle of syrup concentrate. Rodinal (R09) is also a popular choice and also lasts forever in concentrated form.

 

[emjo]

I agree with recommendations on HC-110. With Fomapan 100 I use it diluted 60x (5 ml syrup for 300 ml total volume) and 6-8 minutes depending on season. Water rinse and no stop as a few seconds here or there does not matter at these longer times. Rodinal (R09) died on me so I won't use that anymore. Hc-110 just seems to work. HC-110 can be found in Sweden at least.

 

[GRHazelton]

I'd suggest "standardizing" on one film and one developer for a while, so that there are as few variables as possible. I use D 76 at one to one dilution, developing times are reasonable. If distilled water is inexpensive I'd use it for mixing the developer; tap water is fine for rinse and final wash. Water rinse, fixer, and PhotoFlo. Ilford makes Kentmere films ASA 100 and 400 in 35mm only. I've had good results with it, and its inexpensive.