Easel dilemma

[xtolsniffer]

Hi all,
I currently use an LPL 6700 enlarger which I'm pretty pleased with. I usually only print up to 10"x8" for which I use a Photon Beard 12"x16" two blade easel which is lovely. The sliding mechanism for the arms isn't as smooth as it was, but it's old and well used, and I like it - the ability to set margins in fixed 1/4" increments all the way up to 2" is great. But, therein lies the problem. I've recently started to print some 6x7 and 35mm negs up to 12"x16". The easel can take larger paper (20"x16") I think, but can only print up to 12"x16" (2" margin all round).

The issue with printing this large is that the back of the easel bumps into the enlarger column and I can't get the full image onto the paper. So I've had to resort to a no-name 12"x16" two blade easel which has a narrower margin to it so I can push it closer to the back column. This is not a great easel, I can't set the margins very accurately and the paper slides all over the place when in it.

Is there a solution to this? Are there any 12"x16" easels out there which are substantial enough to hold the paper square yet with a narrow enough margin to be able to push enough up against the enlarger column so I can get the full image with a bit of wiggle room in case I want to crop?

Ta!

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

"Maximum print size with baseboard is 11"X14"." At least that is what they say.

You can reverse mount the chassis, then fasten the baseboard to a tabletop or whatever. Then project on the floor or somewhere inbetween, depending on the size you want.

 

[RobC]

some enlargers had extension pieces which you attached between column and head to increase the lens axis to column distance so you can make bigger prints on baseboard.
Durst and Kaiser spring to mind but it depends on enlarger model.

The other and better option is if you can track down a wall mount for your particular enlarger. By positioning the bottom mount just above your working surface level means you can slide the easel under the bottom of the column. And the wall mount also pushes the lens axis out further as well so that you can do really big prints on your work surface. (The baseboard becomes redundant doing it this way and you place easel on working surface).

from the look of it I think you could get a wall mount made for your enlarger if they didn't make one for it. Even blocks of wood attached firmly to wall might do it. Its important that you can adjust top attachment so that you can adjust the column to be perfectly vertical.

 

[Hilo]

1) use a rectangular table
2) turn around the column, or attach the enlarger head on the back side of the column
3) place two wooden beams underneath your baseboard, lifting the board a little higher than your easel is.
4) if you move your enlarger to one side of the table, you can project on the other side of the table. You can slide the back of the easel underneath the baseboard.

With some enlargers you will have to put a weight on the baseboard of the enlarger. When this works you can construct a framework instead of lose beams . . .

 

[Hilo]

PS

In other words: the easel stands on the table . . .

I did this with a Leitz Valoy II and it worked very well. That enlarger goes to about 30X40cm (12X16) when using an easel and the baseboard. Raising the enlarger and being able to push the easel underneath the baseboard made 50X60cm (20X24) possible.

As others said, a wall mount is the better permanent solution. I have a Durst L1000 against the wall using a Durst made rail. It turned the L1000 into a totally able enlarger. That one has the same problem as you described. Now it is easy to do 50X60cm (20X24). You must make sure enlarger and table are level with each other. I love having the easels on the table!

So do check if LPL made a wall mount.

 

[Neal]

Dear xtolsniffer,

Find an inexpensive borderless easel like this one. Place the thin edge closer to the easel column. A cheaper alternative might be to find a magnet board and locate the paper by bumping up against a few magnets.

Good luck,

Neal Wydra

 

[mickld]

Neal - that's exactly what I've done (and use for all prints). I ordered a custom cut thin, stainless steel sheet from eBay (very cheap!) which is taped to the base board. Two strong bar magnets (pencil thick) are used to mark the top and left side of the paper when lining up & focusing the image. When ready to print I can then just slide the paper into the top left corner created by these magnets. To create the border I want I drop a card frame on top of the photo paper. I just cut these frames from ordinary card with a scalpel. For me about six such card frames covers all my printing needs, but it is easy to cut a new one if needed.

I usually pin 2 of the corners of the paper/card frame with ordinary (weak) magnets to stop the paper from being accidentally nudged out of position.

Over all, a cheap and very flexible solution. It does still limit you to the size of the base board though.

 

[xtolsniffer]

All very good suggestions, thanks everyone. My darkroom is very small, so I'm limited by the options of rotating the head around or lifting the column. And the walls are just wooden and very wobbly so mounting the head on the wall isn't going to work either. I can get up to 12"x16" on the baseboard, so with an easel with an appropriately narrow edge/hinge it could work. I've had a look at the no-name generic easel I have and I think I can modify that to make a fixed 12"x16" easel with a fixed 1/4" margin all the way round. Just a little bit of aluminium bar and some epoxy should do the trick. Thanks for all of your inputs!

 

[Mark Fisher]

I have the same enlarger and feel your pain. What I ended up doing is making an easel with different masks (look like thick window matts) for the different paper sizes and different print sizes I do. 90% of what I print are either square, 6x9 or 1:2 ratio so I have three masks per paper size. For the few of of other ratios, I use my 4 blade. The masks register against the corner of the easel base which means it can be very close to the column. I made it in Plexiglass, but wood or metal would work too. The masks are plexiglass with magnets mounted in them. Matching magnets with opposite poles facing each other are in the easel. This way, the magnets automatically pull the masks into the corner of the easel, flattens the paper nicely, allows bigger prints and makes my prints exactly the same size every time. I've been meaning to make a handful of them and sell them just because they work really well and it would be pretty simple to design it to be made with a laser cutter and/or CNC router, but haven't got around to it.......I can't imagine too many people spending what I'd need to charge!

 

[Reinhold]

Hi xtolsniffer...

Apparently you've overlooked a suggestion I posted on FADU.
A photo forum in your own back yard!...

http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10784

Reinhold

 

[Luis-F-S]

Hi all,
I currently use an LPL 6700 enlarger which I'm pretty pleased with. I usually only print up to 10"x8" for which I use a Photon Beard 12"x16" two blade easel which is lovely........ The issue with printing this large is that the back of the easel bumps into the enlarger column and I can't get the full image onto the paper. So I've had to resort to a no-name 12"x16" two blade easel which has a narrower margin to it so I can push it closer to the back column. This is not a great easel, I can't set the margins very accurately and the paper slides all over the place when in it.

Is there a solution to this? Are there any 12"x16" easels out there which are substantial enough to hold the paper square yet with a narrow enough margin to be able to push enough up against the enlarger column so I can get the full image with a bit of wiggle room in case I want to crop? Ta!

Sure, the obvious answer is that you get a smaller easel or a larger enlarger. All photographic equipment has limitations and you're obviously exceeding yours. L

 

[Mark Fisher]

Sure, the obvious answer is that you get a smaller easel or a larger enlarger. All photographic equipment has limitations and you're obviously exceeding yours. L

This is not true. The traditional 4 bladed easel is pretty inefficient. An easel with smaller margins will get you about one-ish paper size. You can simply tape the paper to the baseboard to get maximum size without too much trouble. A drop table will make a big difference (no need to wall mount, but it helps). Projecting on the floor can be an option. The only real limitations are the effort you are willing to put in and the distance between the lens axis and the mount for the column......that is when the projection cone hits the base of the column.

 

[MattKing]

If you have a two bladed easel with metal arms, adding strong magnets to the top of the arms after you have lowered them on top of the paper greatly improves the flatness of the paper.

 

[Luis-F-S]

A drop table will make a big difference (no need to wall mount, but it helps). Projecting on the floor can be an option. The only real limitations are the effort you are willing to put in and the distance between the lens axis and the mount for the column......that is when the projection cone hits the base of the column.

As someone with 4 large format enlargers, I have a hard time relating to all the work arounds......I'd get a larger enlarger or a smaller easel.

 

[RobC]

If you have a two bladed easel with metal arms, adding strong magnets to the top of the arms after you have lowered them on top of the paper greatly improves the flatness of the paper.

not if the easel board is made of wood.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Wall mounting, turning the enlarger horizontal, raising the enlarger, dropping the platform may not give you the results you want. When I bought my enlarger from a photo finishers I was told that although I could get a larger image than 20"x24" the enlarge would not produce enough even light to go any larger than 20"x24". You should find out what the size limits are for your enlarger before you start heroic rebuilding.