E-6 without reversal?

CD3 in addition, forms narrow band dyes with the right absorption

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Thank you for the clarification.

For the b/w first developer, are there certain characteristics that this needs to match? Can i use my current developer (F76+) or something common like D72 or tmax developer more suitable?

What part of the image does this step control; contrast, grain size, film speed, or all of it?

you should use a sulfite clearing bath before the bleach

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This might be the solution to the problem that I had with paper positives; i'll make a thread elsewhere i guess.

The E6 first developer is a very slow acting HA developer that gives fine grain and high sharpness. The speed is obtained by adjusting the emulsion.

PE

Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?

Dead Link Removed is an MSDS for the E-6 first developer, if you want to try to mimic that. Alternatively, there's some home brew E-6 formulas here.

Kloppervok said:

Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?

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Where are you located? If you're in the US, you might just try Kodak's single-use E-6 kit. It's available mail-order Dead Link Removed among other places. It doesn't use separate starter or replenisher chemicals; it's just got instructions for single-shot use. The last time I did the math, it was actually significantly less expensive than the smaller 3-bath kits from other manufacturers, but it produces better results. It's a 6-bath kit, so it takes more effort to use, though.

If you're outside the US, the same kit may be available, but I can't provide pointers to any suppliers.