Durst TRA 450 Timer connection

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Murdog36

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AgX said:
As I indicated above, even a female - female cable is dangerous. Not as cable, but as set-up, as at one of the appliences there may be a live, blank male-connector.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, there could have been sparks ️
 

BobUK

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AgX said:
WARNING to all tinkering with Mains Electricity:


a Cable Connection with SAME Connectors at Both Ends means a possibly DEADLY set-up



(independant whether at both ends are male connectors or "just" female ones)
Click to expand...

I once witnessed an engineer cobble up a mains lead to test some equipment he was working on. It was a double ended male plug for 240v ac UK system, The sort of plug we use on electric kettles, but with male prongs.
He held one end clenched in his hand whilst he casually plugged the other into the live mains supply.
I think it was the fastest that he ever moved in his life. Took about ten minutes for him to calm down.

As others have pointed out, double ended mains leads are very dangerous.
 
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Murdog36

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I re-ordered this just to be on the safe side. Save me messing around.
 

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AgX

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Yes, you would need this for the Durst-way set-up.

It delivers a 230V switching signal from the timer to the TRA.
 

AgX

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Something else: in none of your photos I see the mains-voltage switch. Look for it and set it at 240V.


And be sure that you inserted a 2.5A (T) fuse at the fuse holder.
 
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AgX

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In case you want to do the classic set-up (mains>timer>enlarger), and not the Durst -specific set-up I described above, you need to switch the TRA to "Lamp" to bridge its own internal relay.
 

koraks

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That may still blow a fuse in either the timer or the tra450 as the fan comes on together with the bulb. That's one of the issues highlighted earlier in the thread.
 

AgX

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This should not happen and that is why a T-type fuse is used. Moreover in non of the different circuit shemes of this transformer/relay unit I see a fan.
 

koraks

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AgX said:
This should not happen and that is why a T-type fuse is used.
Click to expand...

(1) I agree and (2) I verified with OP a T-type fuse is indeed installed. Problem still exists.
Interestingly the schematic calls for a 2.5A M-type fuse in a 230V environment, which is faster acting than T.

AgX said:
Moreover in non of the different circuit shemes of this transformer/relay unit I see a fan.
Click to expand...

Because it's in the head. I think it's supposed to run on 24/25V if I read the schematic right. If I'm not mistaken the fan on a standard CLS1000 will run on 230V instead, but I'm not 100% sure on this.
Note that the inrush current generated by a hefty transformer can be significant. Likewise, cold bulbs and unmagnetized windings of motors also create a current peak. The turn-on behavior of these Durst units isn't all too friendly.

I'd really recommend running it as intended by having the timer switch the dedicated input on the TRA450. One more reason is that in these Durst heads the bulb runs permanently on low voltage to keep the filament somewhat warmed up, which reduces color and exposure shift issues with short exposures as the bulb doesn't have to warm up all the way from zero when it's turned on.
 

AgX

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koraks said:
Interestingly the schematic calls for a 2.5A M-type fuse in a 230V environment, which is faster acting than T.
Click to expand...
As I repeatedly indicated there are several schematics, only one, the oldest, states a M-types, the others T-types.

koraks said:
Because it's in the head. I think it's supposed to run on 24/25V if I read the schematic right. If I'm not mistaken the fan on a standard CLS1000 will run on 230V instead, but I'm not 100% sure.
Click to expand...
My misunderstanding. Somehow I thought you had it over a fan for the transformer...


At the ouput for the colorhead are both, mains- and 25V.
 
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Murdog36

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Thanks for the help everyone, that cable worked and the timer is operational. After a couple of tries the socket that holds the halogen bulb fried. Another day, another problem . I now think I have encountered every problem possible, a subject for another thread. Thanks again
 

AgX

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At the heydays of Photokina there always was a stand of a german manufacturer of all sorts or ceramic lamp-sockets...


Exchanging the socket and cleaning he lamp pins would be best, but with the right tools a socket could be refurbished too.
 
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