Durst Printo

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Donald Miller

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Does anyone have knowledge of the Durst Printo in black and white processing? Is it a good piece of equipment? Does it have any deficiencies?

Thanks for your help.
 

Claire Senft

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The Durst Printo is a good unit. It will do a good job of processing b&W RC. I do noy believe that it will handle fiber based paper.
 

garysamson

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Don,
I have a Durst Printo and used it to process several hundred RC prints for a book project some years ago. I used the Ilford B&W chemistry designed for roller transport machines and the combination worked well. All prints were washed outside of the processor. The Durst comes with interchangeable gears to vary the speed of the machine for different processes.
 

claytume

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I have one I use for both colour and B&W. I don't bother changing speeds for each process, just alter the temp. I was and also selenium tone in the processor.

As they are modular units you can stack as many sections together as you like (and afford). 2 tanks will give dev and fix, add extras for wash. You don't need the stop stage as there is very little carry over of solutions.

They are a great machine for low quantity production as they only use 2L solution per tank.

This is all RC of course, fibre wont work.

Clayton
 

Mick Fagan

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Donald, I have had my Printo shortly after the release of RA4 colour processing, I don't know when that was, but it was quite a few years ago.

I originally used it strictly for RA4 work, until I had to print a couple of thousand B&W prints for a customer, quickly!

From then on, I have used it for B&W when I'm printing volume work.

The units take 2½ litres of working solution in each tank.

For B&W work, you require a basic unit which comprises:-

The Intro unit, which is the part that has the light tight cover and the power switch.

Normally you then put together, different variations of the two motorised tanks you will require.

The two variations are:-

Printo Energy Therm = Drive and heating module.

Printo Energy Mot = Only drive-module, (used in the rinse module).

The motors in these units, are synchronised so you can safely add quite a few together. Although the maximum required for dry to dry B&W is:-

Intro + 2 x tank + Energy Therm and 1 x tank Energy Mot and the dryer.

Personally I use two Energy Therm units and have the prints drop into a strategically placed 12 x 16 Ilford tray ½ full of water.

I then wash in two trays for around 1 minute then whack the prints through a 12" Rowi paper dryer.
I do this with colour or B&W. This is pretty much the cheapest and quickest way to use these things.

Things to look for!

Careful inspection of the exit rollers is required. When stored for longer than one day, these rollers should be held apart by the special clips supplied with the units when new. Invariably this hasn't been done and the rollers are useless and have to be replaced, cost is quite high for these rollers. The exit rollers are a squeegee set, are soft and held together quite firmly.

The energy motors can be quite tricky to test. You can see them working by filling the tanks up with water and switching the unit on. Be prepared to wait about 10 minutes to ensure that the heating elements are working.

The heating elements appear to be a weak part. I've never broken any, but the then Durst rep, called in to enquire why I hadn't had any problems with my heating elements breaking, when it appeared that half of Melbourne's Printo units had at least one heating element break. I'm careful, I paid for the unit with my money is the only reason why mine didn't break, is all I can assume.

Water heats from 20º C to 30º C, in about 18 minutes.

I've never used the replenishment system, there is one, but I've never seen one.

I just do about 80% of the maximum amount of prints, drop the bath, whack a new one in.

Chemistry works out pretty much in the order of 1 square metre of paper, per 1 litre of solution.

This is the factory solution capacities for the number of processed prints per tank filling, without replenishment.

12 x 16" 20 sheets

8 x 10" 41 sheets

5 x 7" 106 sheets

4 x 5" 213 sheets

2¾ x 4" 357 sheets

Mick.
 

Claire Senft

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Donald I have never tried this but it may work. Take a piece of rc paper that is slightly damp. Lay a piece of fiber paper on top of it..back to face. Rub it into place and see if the sandwhich will feed through the Printo. I think this has a reasonable chance of being successful.
 

Mick Fagan

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Donald I have never tried this but it may work. Take a piece of rc paper that is slightly damp. Lay a piece of fiber paper on top of it..back to face. Rub it into place and see if the sandwhich will feed through the Printo. I think this has a reasonable chance of being successful.

Which back, which face, on what paper?

Not too sure whether a plastic surface will hold a paper surface from sliding as it goes through the squeegee rollers at the exit of each tank.

One of the reasons machine processing works so well, is the ability of the paper to stay stiff whilst being bent in reasonably tight curves, as it wends itself through a maze of rollers and tanks. Plastic coating on both sides, followed by a top coating of an emulsion on one side, allows this.

Paper that is not coated with a plastic sheath, loses it's stiffness almost immediately after coming in contact with moisture.

I'm not an expert on paper manufacture, but I suspect the length of the fibres in RC paper, is far shorter than uncoated paper. This may also be a contributing factor to paper stiffness. Meaning that more densely packed short fibres, will be stiffer than longer fibres in uncoated paper.

Pure speculation, but, it is possibly a reason for more longitudinal rigidity of RC papers travelling through machine rollers and dryers. Not to mention, being savagely attacked by hair dryers after a dunking!

Mick.
 

Claire Senft

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If I put ther back of the fiber paper against the face of the rc paper there is a chance it will work...at least the fiber paper will be in contact with the solutions. If I were to put the Rc paper back in contact with the fiber paper face I would give extremely little chance of a properly developed print.
 

claytume

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Claire Senft said:
Donald I have never tried this but it may work. Take a piece of rc paper that is slightly damp. Lay a piece of fiber paper on top of it..back to face. Rub it into place and see if the sandwhich will feed through the Printo. I think this has a reasonable chance of being successful.

I thought this was an interesting idea so I tried it and it works!

I cut a 12 x 16" fibre print in half lengthwise and sandwiched it with a wider and longer piece of RC. Fibre was face down and RC face was against fibre back. I didn't bother wetting them and they fed through fine. It looked like there was a tiny bit of slippage but not sure, have to test again. Appeared to be no damage to the fibre print in any way.

I don't have room for trays in my darkroom so it may be an alternative should I need to do fibre in the future.

Clayton
 

Mick Fagan

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Clayton, that's interesting. I have some clear film which I may try as a carrier, instead of RC paper.

I'll give it a go next week when I'm doing some B&W in the Printo and get back to the thread.

Mick.
 

claytume

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Mick Fagan said:
Clayton, that's interesting. I have some clear film which I may try as a carrier, instead of RC paper.

I'll give it a go next week when I'm doing some B&W in the Printo and get back to the thread.

Mick.

Mick I was thinking the same thing, I have some 9 1/2" roll film that may do the job. I print panoramas, usually a metre long and was wondering if the fibre paper needed support the full length or just enough to get it driving through the first roller.

The fibre I used was double weight Forte and thought the processor might have problems with that and the extra support thickness. Didn't seem to make any difference.

Also wondering if the wash can be done in the processor, 1 bath with hypo clear then 2 washes. Then test for residual fixer.

Clayton
 

Claire Senft

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You will not get a full wash for fiber paper with the processor. Fiber paper takes much more wash time.

I find it interesting that my idea may work.
 
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