Durst 605M Color Lamp broken (I Think)

[CDU]

Hello! Tonight my Durst 605M Color suddenly stopped working. No more light. I hope it concerns the lamp. I removed this and it appears to be difficult to obtain. It now has a Philips6834 100W 12v in it. which one is best to use as a replacement? Thanks in advance.

 

[BobUK]

When handling the new bulb do not touch the bulb or internal reflector with bare fingers. It can damage it when heated up.



The spares that I use are marked on the boxes

OSRAM XENOPHOT
64627 HLX EFP
12v 100w GZ6.35
A1/231


A1/231 is the number to search for. Found in quite a few online photography stores for use in enlargers.
Getting dearer every time I see them. Worth stocking up on a couple for the future.

 

[pentaxuser]

For what it is worth when my lamp for the 605M needed changing I changed to a 75W bulb. It lengthened the time for printing to a longer time for small prints especially when I printed colour. My 100W gave about 3 secs for a 5x7 RA4 print which was far too short

pentaxuser

 

[MattKing]

A1/231 is the number to search for.

This will vary with your marketplace. On this side of the Atlantic, "EFP" will be more commonly used.
The same bulb is used in the Variable Contrast or Colour Dichroic heads for LPL7700 enlargers.
Result of a Google search from Canada:

 

[ic-racer]

Many enlargers these days are old enough to require a new socket for the lamp.

 

[CDU]

Thanks a lot Bob, Pentaxuser and Mattking!

 

[koraks]

My 100W gave about 3 secs for a 5x7 RA4 print which was far too short

So a 75W lengthened it to...4.5 s? The difference is kind of small after all.

@CDU certainly stock up on one or two replacement bulbs. You never know when you need them. Two is better than one.
In case it turns out to not be the bulb: the Durst power supplies are getting long in the tooth and fail frequently. If you have a digital multimeter at hand, please measure the voltage on the bulb socket to verify it's correct. Also check corrosion or damage to the socket as @ic-racer mentions. If you don't measure power on the socket, measure on the connector at the back of the power supply.

 

[CDU]

In case it turns out to not be the bulb: the Durst power supplies are getting long in the tooth and fail frequently. If you have a digital multimeter at hand, please measure the voltage on the bulb socket to verify it's correct. Also check corrosion or damage to the socket as @ic-racer mentions. If you don't measure power on the socket, measure on the connector at the back of the power supply.

So a 75W lengthened it to...4.5 s? The difference is kind of small after all.

@CDU certainly stock up on one or two replacement bulbs. You never know when you need them. Two is better than one.
In case it turns out to not be the bulb: the Durst power supplies are getting long in the tooth and fail frequently. If you have a digital multimeter at hand, please measure the voltage on the bulb socket to verify it's correct. Also check corrosion or damage to the socket as @ic-racer mentions. If you don't measure power on the socket, measure on the connector at the back of the power supply.

This will be the next step! Thanks Korak.

 

[koraks]

Excellent!
I've repaired a few of these units; sometimes they can be revived. I've also had one that just kept blowing bulbs even though nothing appeared to be wrong with it. It measured fine and would power a dummy 12V load (an automotive bulb) just fine. But an actual enlarger bulb it would blow within a second. Never bothered to look into what caused it. I say this just in case your replacement bulb blows immediately; don't be tempted to keep feeding bulbs into it until it works. It'll be a costly endeavor.

 

[pentaxuser]

There is also a ceramic two hole "plug" that fits into the two prongs on the back of the bulb which ic-racer refers to . This is subject to some arcing over the life of a bulb, seemingly shortening the bulbs life or creating "problems" wíth the bulb and while the inside of the holes can be cleaned with a needle or a jeweller's file it is better if you can change the ceramic holder each time you change a bulb.

The holders used to be available on the U.K. e-bay but I haven't looked for a long while so I can't be sure

If the bulb's filament looks OK and tests OK then it is worth trying to clean the insides of the holes on the ceramic holder- on a "just in case" basis

pentaxuser

 

[BobUK]

In a box of photography junk I bought, I was lucky enough to find two original Durst bulbs, complete with leaflet describing how they are specially selected by Durst for colour enlargers.

Due to the silvering, it's difficult to read never mind photograph the original bulb details.

Original bulb reads...



OSRAM
6466 / XENOPHOT
12v 100w
designed for
GERMANY durst
1029


As others have pointed out, the contacts in the lamp socket burn out eventually.
After changing the socket twice I eventually soldered the wires directly to the lamp contact pins.

 

[BobUK]

If you do decide to change the ceramic lamp connector, the size to look for is GZ6.35 this describes the actual socket and corresponding pins size of both bulb and connector.

That number was mentioned in my original post mentioning the A1/231 lamp.

 

[CDU]

Thanks all, it has been solved by a new lamp. At the first I got red flared light, I saw, than I found a red glass after the lamp which had been turned so that it was in the lightbulb (by me?) before the condensor...

Next issue: I made pictures at the same trip with Rollei 3.5 ánd Leica IIIF with Elmar 5, 3.5 red scale . After replacing the lamp the exposure time (paper) I needed to get decent images turned out to have to be a factor of 3 higher with the Leica (Rollei: 7 sec, f=11, Leica 20 sec f=11). I suspect the Leica exposure times are incorrect. I have already measured the Rollei times with the Filmomat plug, they deviate by about 1/3 stop. I still have to do the Leica. I'm curious!

 

[koraks]

a red glass after the lamp which had been turned so that it was in the lightbulb (by me?) before the condensor...

The magenta or cyan filter...? It shouldn't be where you found it.

Did you flip the format handle on the side of the head when going from 6x6cm to 35mm negatives? Iirc this switches the proper condenser configuration in place.

Also keep in mind that if you print on the same size paper, a 35mm neg is just a whole lot smaller than 6x6cm, so you spreading essentially the same amount of light over a lot bigger area (magnification).

 

[CDU]

Hi Koraks, Switch 43 moves a colored glass in the before the light beam.

 

[CDU]

The magenta or cyan filter...? It shouldn't be where you found it.

Did you flip the format handle on the side of the head when going from 6x6cm to 35mm negatives? Iirc this switches the proper condenser configuration in place.

Also keep in mind that if you print on the same size paper, a 35mm neg is just a whole lot smaller than 6x6cm, so you spreading essentially the same amount of light over a lot bigger area (magnification).

I meant here the contactsheets that gave the differences. But thanks for your attention, I am waiting for my 6x6 window which I bought on Ebay, and I think that I did't remember the switch to 6x6 ....

 

[BobUK]

In your original post you named your enlarger as Durst 605M
Mine is labelled Durst M605

Looking at your photograph of the rotary switch at the back of the head has made me realise there are two versions.
My enlarger has the rotary switch for extra filtration at the front of the head. Not on the back. It is on the front plate below, and to the left of the filter thumb wheels. It also has a red light warning indicator light by it.

Two questions.

Is it difficult to reach the switch at the back with the column in the way? Possibly why mine has the knob at the front.

Is the head actually labeled Durst 605M, or possibly a typo by you.
The rearrangement of the model number may indicate the different versions.

Thanks.

 

[CDU]

In your original post you named your enlarger as Durst 605M
Mine is labelled Durst M605

Looking at your photograph of the rotary switch at the back of the head has made me realise there are two versions.
My enlarger has the rotary switch for extra filtration at the front of the head. Not on the back. It is on the front plate below, and to the left of the filter thumb wheels. It also has a red light warning indicator light by it.

Two questions.

Is it difficult to reach the switch at the back with the column in the way? Possibly why mine has the knob at the front.

Is the head actually labeled Durst 605M, or possibly a typo by you.
The rearrangement of the model number may indicate the different versions.

Thanks.

Bob,

Yes, it is impossible to reach it in normal stand. I Rotated the head to reach it.

I indeed it was a typo. So I have a M605 colour enlarger.

Thanks!

 

[BobUK]

Thank you CDU.
I have a vague memory about the light box being silvered and having 100 watt bulbs. Un-silvered light boxes use 75 watt bulbs. Do not take this as gospel truth yet. I will try to find out if it is true.

 

[BobUK]

Page 12 of the manual does say 100 Watt lamp.
Something nags me though.

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/durst/Durst_M605.pdf

Link above to the manual.

Jollinger website is a handy source of information to bookmark.

 

[pentaxuser]

Yes, BobUK, that's the manual I have and mine says 100W as well but the 75W bulb is exactly the same except for wattage, When my 100W blew, I changed it for a 75W which is the same except for wattage

pentaxuser

 

[Sanug]

You can use any reflector lamp with 12 V and max. 100 W. A lower wattage is not a problem. It is a good idea to replace the G6.35 lamp socket, but take care it must be suitable for 100 W.

I replaced the original Durst AC transformer by a stabilized 12 V DC switched power supply (Meanwell LRS-150-12, 12 V/12,5 A), because the mains voltage in my basement is not stable, especially when I use an electrical heater during winter. The Meanwell LRS-150-12 switches on and off without visible delay, and it has an adjustable output voltage which remains absolutely stable.

 

[MattKing]

In addition, the EFP reflector has certain characteristics with respect to angle of light output, so you need to match that to get the same results.

 

[koraks]

In addition, the EFP reflector has certain characteristics with respect to angle of light output, so you need to match that to get the same results.

This is a relevant factor to keep in mind especially in the case of switching to a LED light source. Not so much the reflector, but the shape, size and position of the light source as such.

 

[BobUK]

Worth noting that the original Durst bulbs have a lug moulded into the rim of the reflector. This has to key in place on the mounting or the bulb will be slightly skewed.
Some replacements I used also had the moulded in lug.
The latest bulbs that I bought no longer have the moulded lug so no problem there.