Durst 184 enlarger question ?

[Zenzanon Fan]

Have a Durst 184 enlarger, generally in excellent condition but the chrome plated posts are tarnished badly in places so I would like to remove them and get them re-chromed. Can't find much information on dismantling one of these apart from a Durst-Pro-USA article on releasing tension to adjust the spring / cable etc.

Has anyone any experience of further dismantling one of these enlargers ? I remember seeing some web pages years ago from Japan where someone was restoring one but can't find it now.

Thanks.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Is there so much pitting that you can't simply polish the chrome on your posts? You're in for quite a chore if you try to remove them.

 

[Zenzanon Fan]

Yeah they are pretty bad. Was stored in a damp shed before I got my hands on it. I could sand them down and just paint them but it would be nice to keep them original. Don't mind putting the work into it. Its just removing the top posts is the real problem due to the tension on the spring and cables.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Those tension springs can be dangerous if unhooked incorrectly. Likewise, putting them back on. Be well padded with thick gloves and a face visor if you aren't certain how to go about it. I don't have the manual to the L184, just the L138; maybe someone does.
Otherwise, they're fairly straightforward if you take your time and have a place to set down all the components involved.

A proper redo to the column would involve sandblasting them first, then multiple coats of fresh chrome. But attention would have to be paid to maintaining the correct diameter in the process. Whenever I needed that kind of service, I'd ask the big local plating company, and time it when they were doing a significant amount of analogous work, so that it didn't require any special setup charge for such a small task. Chrome work is frequently done for hot rod or low rider vehicles, for example (I don't know what the equivalent would be in Ireland; but plenty of chrome refurbishing must be done there too for sake of your own auto enthusiasts).

Then it's just a matter of how much reconditioning you actually want or expect. I got my own L184 back to around 95% original condition cosmetically, and 100% functionally, including the colorhead, so was pretty happy with that.

 

[Zenzanon Fan]

Thank you. Yes I will be very careful if I do decide to go for it. Funny you mention the car scene, I am an amateur car restorer so taking stuff apart doesn't faze me, I actually enjoy the process. Plus this enlarger is a classic itself.

Looking at it I am pretty sure I can release the tension using a socket and long bar on the large nut but I will need to make a tool that will safely hold the tension when the columns are removed. Might back it up with some wire rope clamps or such on the cables so long as they wouldn't damage them. Must put some pics up as I go, if I go

 

[DREW WILEY]

While neighbors down the street were refurbishing classic motorcycles and speedboats, I was doing classic Durst enlargers. It's satisfying to bring serious equipment back to its former glory.

I've relaminated all my baseboards with black formica. Custom Bellows in the UK furnished me with replacement bellows when needed. But due to the extra weight of my precision vac easels, I had to supplement the column spring of one of the 138 chassis with a dumbwaiter system. I have a torpedo shaped section of capped off black ABS drainage pipe filled with lead birdshot. This is tethered to a length of stainless aircraft cable which loops over a pulley projecting from the wall, and back down to the big bolt hubs on the upper moving part of the enlarger. It's both safer and more effective than over-tightening the mainspring tension. Otherwise, all my enlargers are firmly bolted to both the floor and the wall. This is earthquake country.

 

[Zenzanon Fan]

Sounds like you made a very nice job of it.

 

[jbrianfoto]

Before you go thru all the trouble dismantling the column head, counterbalance springs and such, why not try a light coat of WD40 and steel wool? I've used this combo to clean surface rust and stains from the chrome on my L184. The tolerance on these tubes is not that critical - if you can get them feeling smooth and clean, the camera carriage will operate as it should. Car guys also use this method for cleaning chrome bumpers/trim.

 

[gary mulder]

Those chrome plated posts are precision grinded with very tight tolerances. Painting or re-chroming will mess them up. Except if you are willing to let them be precision grinded after re-chroming.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Paint of course would be inappropriate. But these units are designed for thickness tolerance adjustment; and the thickness of the chrome can be specified.

Never use steel wool for anything critical - those little rusty strands get into things. Select an appropriate grade of synthetic Scotchbite. WD-40 is a junk product that traps water vapor under it; use a more pro product instead, like LPS. But apply with a cloth; you don't want overspray getting onto a bellows.

 

[btaylor]

Before you go thru all the trouble dismantling the column head, counterbalance springs and such, why not try a light coat of WD40 and steel wool? I've used this combo to clean surface rust and stains from the chrome on my L184. The tolerance on these tubes is not that critical - if you can get them feeling smooth and clean, the camera carriage will operate as it should. Car guys also use this method for cleaning chrome bumpers/trim.

My big Omega had lived close to the ocean for years before it came into my possession, surface rust was everywhere. I completely disassembled it to remove the rust and corrosion. Rust remover solution, steel wool, a lot of elbow grease and time got it all back in shape. I would try rust remover and steel wool or other fine abrasive before getting more involved in replating, etc, but that’s just me. Good luck on your journey!