I recently photographed Marblehead, MA along the coast. Overall the exposures look pretty good, however, I am having trouble getting the prints to have more presence. The look a little dull and lifeless (colorwise). If anyone has any suggestions on how to correct this and get better looking prints, please share. Thanks.
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Dull Prints
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rbarker
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There's not a lot one can do in an analog manner with color film after the fact. Although some manipulation is possible during (custom) printing, it's not like printing B&W.
Note that I'm avoiding the mention of unmentionable techniques that might be applied by persons of dubious character.
Note that I'm avoiding the mention of unmentionable techniques that might be applied by persons of dubious character.
Les McLean
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What paper grade are you using?
rbarker
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Ah, OK. Then, your choices include (but aren't limited to):asegreti said:
1. printing at a higher contrast,
2. doing more dodging and burning,
3. split-grade printing, combined with dodging and burning, to increase local contrast as desired,
4. selective bleaching of the (almost) finished prints.
Thanks for your help...this is better than class....I don't think I am getting the most I can get out of my class. Teacher is unhelpful at times.
I have been printing them with a 3.5 Ilford filter for the enlarger to make them more contrasty...and dodging and burning..I will keep working on it.
I have been printing them with a 3.5 Ilford filter for the enlarger to make them more contrasty...and dodging and burning..I will keep working on it.
Joe Lipka
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The real question is why are my negatives giving me "flat" prints. The answer lies in the negative. Is there a good gradation from clear to black on your negative, or is there a just a bunch of greys. Look to the negative when the prints don't look good.
Ed Sukach
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asegreti said:
Ah, Marblehead ... part of MY stomping grounds.
I really could use more information ... What film was used, what atmospheric conditions, where was the film/ print processed...
Different papers have somewhat different characteristics ... contrast, etc.
Did you print these yourself - or ...? One common error made by commercial labs (everything from supermarket "one-hour" to some supposedly high quality) is stretching chemistry beyond its reasonable life ... that will most assuredly result in a dull print.
So, anyhow .. more information, please.
Film : Tri X 400
Conditions: bright, sunny day...12/29/04
i had about 10 rolls of film from a trip through MA, so i took them to to a pro-lab to be processed since i didnt have time before finals...i am doing the prints though...the darkroom chemistry should be brand new, since they were disposed of before break...first day back though i noticed they were unusually warm.
Conditions: bright, sunny day...12/29/04
i had about 10 rolls of film from a trip through MA, so i took them to to a pro-lab to be processed since i didnt have time before finals...i am doing the prints though...the darkroom chemistry should be brand new, since they were disposed of before break...first day back though i noticed they were unusually warm.
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Ed Sukach
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Oh... Black and White. Ilford MG Fiber has a pretty good reputation... I'm wondering about the print developer. What flavor ... fresh/ replenished or ??
How was your paper stored? Have you checked it for fogging? Try reprinting a neg that worked previous, just as a test.
It also may be obvious, but I have to ask. How long was it in the developer for? I 've seen fellow students (myself included once) develop for a minute thinking they are still using RC instead of FB paper.
It also may be obvious, but I have to ask. How long was it in the developer for? I 've seen fellow students (myself included once) develop for a minute thinking they are still using RC instead of FB paper.
the print developer should be fresh...also...good idea to test a print that was previously okay...thanks...i also noticed that the safe light was a little bright after break...im not sure the darkroom workers really know what they are doing.
Take one sheet of paper, put it straight in the fix without developing. Compare that to the border of your print. If the border is darker, the paper is fogged. If not, it's probably OK.
If fogged, you can either get fresh paper or add a whallop of KBr to the developer. The latter is not recommended in communal darkrooms...
If it ins't fogged, you have a problem. Either the film is underdeveloped - in which case going up a couple of contrast grades will help - or the scene is dull as ditchwater. That happens to me too...
In general I like negatives that are so contrasty that I have to struggle to keep them within printable range on paper.
BTW, are you developing the print enough? The easiest way to make a dull, flat print is to pull it from the developer when it looks ready. Trust me, it isn't! Find a standard time, 90 seconds is a good one, and stick to that. Never pull a print early!
If fogged, you can either get fresh paper or add a whallop of KBr to the developer. The latter is not recommended in communal darkrooms...
If it ins't fogged, you have a problem. Either the film is underdeveloped - in which case going up a couple of contrast grades will help - or the scene is dull as ditchwater. That happens to me too...
In general I like negatives that are so contrasty that I have to struggle to keep them within printable range on paper.
BTW, are you developing the print enough? The easiest way to make a dull, flat print is to pull it from the developer when it looks ready. Trust me, it isn't! Find a standard time, 90 seconds is a good one, and stick to that. Never pull a print early!
yeah, some of the scenes may be a little dull...i have been looking though the negatives to maybe find new ones. however, i am going for somewhat of a dull feeling to them...depicting the town in winter...when its empty, instead of the summer when the harbor is full of boats and there are lots of people.
if the film is underdeveloped...how high of a contrast grade would you rec. without the whites being too whites and blacks being to black?
and i dont pull prints before 90 seconds...so i dont think that is it....
if the film is underdeveloped...how high of a contrast grade would you rec. without the whites being too whites and blacks being to black?
and i dont pull prints before 90 seconds...so i dont think that is it....
I usually struggle to hold my negs inside G2, but I don't recommend my way of working. In general any neg that needs more than G3.5 is a mistake - but that doesn't mean I won't crank it all the way up if I think it might help!
I've made prints at 300 magenta and high.contrast developer. At that point any tiny variation is the difference between black and white - and the next print is going to be black (or white). But sometimes that's what it takes...
I've made prints at 300 magenta and high.contrast developer. At that point any tiny variation is the difference between black and white - and the next print is going to be black (or white). But sometimes that's what it takes...
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