Don12x20
Yeah the butzi url gives a good picture.
What you'll need to decide is...how many holders are you going to have? If more than a few, putting a notch code sequence is useful.
Some use a simple binary code (with equal spacing between notch sites.).
If you have as many 8x10 holders as I do, you'll be wanting something more than binary. (You can never have enough holders...)
If this is the case, take an index card and make a code of locations. say an area for 10's, a location for a 5, and a location where 1-4 unitary notches can be made, and one more location for A and B side of the holder(or some other means of telling which side).....so 8x10 holder 76sideA would be 50notch, 2-10 notch, a 5 notch and one unitary notch, and the A/B location unnotched.
Or you could use binary 1001100-1 ... or whatever you deem of use as a system.
Don't use simple drilled holes like St Ansel once proposed -- Sexton tried this long ago and showed me some results back in 1988 where the holes didn't expose fully, giving faulty numbers. Use notches instead. Yes there are cases where notches don't show -- for instance if the notched area fell on a zone 0..totally dark in the image with nothing in the negative. I rarely saw this.
A hint on fidelity holders -- notch with a triangular file, fairly deeply, then take an x-acto(tm) knife and clean out the fuzz from the notch that the file leaves using the edge of the blade on the edges of the notch. And if you're a stickler for an even smoother finish, get a little xylene (hardware store cans, or small quantities in the form of liquid, not tube, modelers cement at the hobby store). Get a little brush and use the liquid cement it on the notch to further clean out the notch by lightly melting the plastic- carefully done this leaves a realy sharp edge on the notch...you're not melting much of the plastic just the offending fuzz left by the file.
You'll also want to write the number used on the little white tab on the fidelity holder (or elsewhere). makes it easier for notetaking, particularly if you use the zone system where you'd want to develop each sheet in a different manner. But this also makes it easier to find a holder that has gone bad and has light leaks or some other problem.
What you'll need to decide is...how many holders are you going to have? If more than a few, putting a notch code sequence is useful.
Some use a simple binary code (with equal spacing between notch sites.).
If you have as many 8x10 holders as I do, you'll be wanting something more than binary. (You can never have enough holders...)
If this is the case, take an index card and make a code of locations. say an area for 10's, a location for a 5, and a location where 1-4 unitary notches can be made, and one more location for A and B side of the holder(or some other means of telling which side).....so 8x10 holder 76sideA would be 50notch, 2-10 notch, a 5 notch and one unitary notch, and the A/B location unnotched.
Or you could use binary 1001100-1 ... or whatever you deem of use as a system.
Don't use simple drilled holes like St Ansel once proposed -- Sexton tried this long ago and showed me some results back in 1988 where the holes didn't expose fully, giving faulty numbers. Use notches instead. Yes there are cases where notches don't show -- for instance if the notched area fell on a zone 0..totally dark in the image with nothing in the negative. I rarely saw this.
A hint on fidelity holders -- notch with a triangular file, fairly deeply, then take an x-acto(tm) knife and clean out the fuzz from the notch that the file leaves using the edge of the blade on the edges of the notch. And if you're a stickler for an even smoother finish, get a little xylene (hardware store cans, or small quantities in the form of liquid, not tube, modelers cement at the hobby store). Get a little brush and use the liquid cement it on the notch to further clean out the notch by lightly melting the plastic- carefully done this leaves a realy sharp edge on the notch...you're not melting much of the plastic just the offending fuzz left by the file.
You'll also want to write the number used on the little white tab on the fidelity holder (or elsewhere). makes it easier for notetaking, particularly if you use the zone system where you'd want to develop each sheet in a different manner. But this also makes it easier to find a holder that has gone bad and has light leaks or some other problem.
