Dr Ware's review of Arentz's book

[clay]

I agree with you. It depends on the artist. In my original statement I intended to imply the premise 'if they need repeatability'. It is just a matter of degree. None of my platinum or gum prints are exactly the same, but the variation is generally pretty small. This process just struck me as being a little wilder in terms of picture to picture variation.

One other thing I forgot to mention. The best looking paper I tried during my experimenation was Buxton. Naturally, this is the most expensive. Platinotype was okay, as was COT 320. I'm going to try some vellums next.

just a thought.... I believe it is possible that someone can be a 'serious worker' without multiple cloning of their images being a requirement of the process.

 

[Annie]

I've never tried the Buxton... I think that is the paper that Dr. Ware refers to as the least 'hostile'.

I think that one thing that may be of assistance to those that wish to have precise control of paper RH is the use of a Sword Hygrometer, it is used in paper manufacture in testing the RH of the rolls. With a small stack of paper you could just insert the blade between the sheets and get a very precise reading of the actual RH of the paper.

For myself I think I can solve the humidity problem by sunprinting on rainy days..... cheers

 

[pmalde]

Hi all -
browsing through APUG after many years away from the forum, I found (there was a url link here which no longer exists) to this post. Thanks for thinking of me, but I do want to make a correction: I continue to work with the process (many refer to it here as the Ware-Malde process, Mike Ware and I prefer to call it the Ammonium process, or Ammonium pt-pd system), along with whatever other methods that best suite my expressive needs. Please feel free to take a look at my web site for images.

 

[Mahler_one]

I enjoy being able to casually examine various books on interesting photographic processes, and hence I have skimmed Dr. Arentz's book. Far be it from me to comment on the methods and techniques used by those whose results speak for themselves. However, even a casual reading of Dr. Arentz's book reveals a heavy emphasis on densitometry and testing. It is important to know that Dick ( if I might use the first name ) was, I believe, at The University of Michigan with the much admired and sorely missed Phil Davis. If heresay is to be believed, Dr. Arentz ( an oral surgeon I think )took one of the late Mr. Davis's courses in photography. The two became friends, Dr. Arentz is said to have studied with Mr. Davis, and-as they say-the rest is history. It would be expected that Dr. Arentz would be familiar with, and use, the BTZS methodology. As far as understanding Platinum and Palladium printing, a more accessible text might lead one to the Weese and Sullivan book on the subject.

Ed

 

[Jim Noel]

palladium toned kallitypes

If the goal is a platinum or palladium print, any opinions on Kallitypes toned in pt or pl? Sandy King has a good article at UnBlinkingEye on Kallitypes, and has asserted elsewhere that a platinum toned Kallitype is indistinguishable from a traditional platinum print.

I frequently choose this process when I want the color and tonality of palladium but don't want to make pure pd/pt prints. The toning method works very well, is easy to do, gives the color and tonality of pd extremely well, and it certainly saves money.
I label these a "Kallitype toned with palladium" on the edge of the print as well as in my notes.

I have tried Dr. Ware's method with some success. I have a humidifier in the darkroom which enables me to easily re-humidify the coated paper to a consistent level. The results are pleasing, but no more so than the traditional methods, and they are certainly more touchy and time consuming.

My preference is for the traditional method using a 1:4 mix of platinum to palladium, or straight palladium.

 

[fauxhemian]

Pratip Malde *WAS* an artist successfully using Mike Ware's method, he now prints digitally.

Don Bryant

I am curious as to why you say Pradip *WAS*. I know for a fact he still prints using the Mike Ware method and has a gorgeous Platinum "dark room." Is it because his show was a few years ago use digital prints.

I am not trying to be combative, just curious as to where you got your information.