Double Exposures on 120 roll film

[african_jon]

I have been thinking of doing a series of double exposures on 120 roll film. Rather than double exposing frame by frame, I would like to expose a complete roll, reroll the film, then double expose the film again. Is it possible to reroll the film inside the camera? Or do you need to do it by hand in a darkbag (re-taping the backing paper to the film)?
I am obviously attracted to the in-camera scenario for its simplicity or at least perceived simplicity
Thanks in advance.

 

[BrianShaw]

Most (all?) roll film cameras only roll in one direction. Re-rolling in a changing bag is really quite easy. Just keep the film tight so you don’t get any “bunching up”. There are online tutorials that you might want to watch for respooling 120 onto 620. Same process. You might see reference to un-taping and re-taping… that is what you need to avoid so the frame registration is maintained.

 

[mcfitz]

With a Rolleiflex a double exposure can be done for each frame via an incamera manipulation of the winder.
Otherwise a roll can be rewound in a darkroom or darkbag but it can be a pain to do so the film and backing paper aligned correctly.

 

[LimeyKeith]

You have virtually no chance of getting the registration spot-on either axially or longitudinally so unless you are after some sort of surreal imagery I would re-think doing it frame by frame in camera is the best option but what the heck, give it a go and share the results.

 

[BrianShaw]

With a Rolleiflex a double exposure can be done for each frame via an incamera manipulation of the winder.

Same with a Rolleicord Va or Vb… double exposure protection switch on front panel. Set it to “off” and double expose, or more.

 

[african_jon]

My Bronica SQAI has the double exposure option but I am more interested in the whole roll. @BrianShaw thanks for the tip, I'll check out the online tutorial.

 

[bernard_L]

When rolling back to the beginning of the film, there is a good chance that the film position relative to the backing paper won't exactly agree with where it is stuck by the adhesive tape. In which case you have to un-stick the tape and re-stick it to the backing paper where the film would now like to be. In the dark, and slooowly to avoid generating tribo-luminescence (much improved nowadays).
If you don't do that, either the film or the backing paper may bulge.

 

[BrianShaw]

here is a good chance that the film position relative to the backing paper won't exactly agree with where it is stuck by the adhesive tape

I've found that keeping the two spools very close together and tight, it is possible to feel the film and start it spooling so that there isn't a resulting film bulge. That will disallow good registration,,, which is going to be difficult enough. Also, make sure that the end-of-roll- securing tape is rolled carefully without bulges or bends, otherwise it can tear off when the film roll goes through the camera again.

 

[Nitroplait]

I am re-using and therefore re-rolling 120 film all the time - for camera test purposes so I do it in the light, but it is very easy to do in a dark bag, and no re-taping is needed if you are carefull keeping tightness when rolling back.
Rolleiflex (from the Automat up until the F minus the T) senses the starting point of the film between two rollers and will start very close to the same place. I don't how your Bronica registers the start of the roll, but if it uses the "arrow" method, you just have to be consistent when you load.
It is possible alignment will not be 100%, but it will be close and probably fine with a little cropping.