I recently mixed a 5L batch of Xtol and all are in brown glass bottles. I've only used it once so far and that was the day after I mixed it. With Tri-X it did a great job. I used grocery store bottled distilled water as always to mix any and all developers.
The problem with me and USPlastic is having to by bottles by the case. I don't need 24 4 oz. bottles.
The negative is very thin but the images can be made out. I used half of the 300ml of developer to make a 1+1 solution, so I had some of the sample left. I took a clip of film, cut it in half, and dropped one into this stock solution and the other into known good (or better) stock solution. The latter turned almost black in four minutes; the former did not, but it did darken.
You have to be careful with this.Try winebags in wineboxes. I got over 2 years with Xtol that way
pentaxuser
Plastic bottles are complete crap. I've had Dektol stock in plastic bottles turn brown within days and also had stop bath eat through plastic and leak on the floor. It's just not worth it.
That you got an image however thin implies that what you experienced was normal aerial oxidation and not the Fenton reaction (sudden death). It is best to keep developer in either glass or PET (polyethylene terephthalate) plastic containers. The recycle code SPI in the triangle on the bottle should be a 1.
The problem with me and USPlastic is having to by bottles by the case. I don't need 24 4 oz. bottles.
In other words, it depends on the plastic.
There are some real advantages to plastic, particularly if you, like me, have to handle things primarily with one hand.In other words, just buy some freaking glass.
The bottles that work best with fixer aren't necessarily the same as the ones that work best with developer, because oxygen doesn't really affect fixer, while it can be deadly for developer.I'm using Kodak Rapid Fixer that's been kept in a brown plastic, 1 gallon jug from Freestyle for well over a year. It gets the fixer poured back into the bottle after developing too. So plastic is fine, and I know people that use plain old plastic milk jugs w/ no issues.
Well, Kodak does say that the storage life of the stock in a partially filled, tightly closed container is "At least 2 months".
It would seem to me that 300 ml in a container is much more likely to deteriorate than a larger amount in a larger container.
I'd be happy to repeat my recommendation for a replenishment regime, but you have probably read it before.
I never became a D76 fan. If I'm going to buy a developer that needs mixed, I will buy xtol. If I'm going to mix one, I'll mix D23. If I want a developer that is grainier and slower than xtol I will use HC110 and benefit from its legendary consistency.
D76 exists because it was a cheap good developer for houses that maintained deep tanks of developer for industrial use. It is therefore obsolete, and there is no reason for the hobbyist or artist to usd it. Even Ansel switched to HC110.
Sudden death is real, and I'll not risk it again. This on a three month old solution stored in a plastic bottle with the air squeezed out. I even clip tested the working solution as I always do; the mistake I made was not allowing the clip to go to full black. After I saw it darken sufficiently, I assumed it was good. The negative (Acros 100) is very thin.
Too bad, because I liked the results I was getting when things worked out.
I'm open to suggestions for another developer that works well with constant agitation. And maybe isn't so volatile.
While D-76 might not be the sexiest thing around, it is very difficult to beat.
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