Does everyone mount with bright white mats?

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Vaughn

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For my silver gelatin prints, I have gone with a bright white -- usually a silver metal frame (Nielson profile #11). For my warmer platinum prints and carbon prints, I go with natural white and black wood frames. Usually 8 ply for the natural white.

I find it is a rare B&W print that can work well with a black mat. I used gray for a short while many years ago and quickly tired of it...but it was not as "clean" looking as some of the nicer grays now.

Vaughn
 

Jon Shiu

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I only use bright white. One time I ordered natural white by mistake and tried it, but under gallery lights it looked kind of sickly yellow and detracted from tone of the light sepia toned photo.

Jon
 

Vaughn

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There is natural white and there is natural white -- Light Impression's natural white has less of that sickly yellow than some others I have seen.
 

jpeets

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I matted with a very light cool gray for a while. I then had to put up a few prints on a warm colored wall, and was pretty much taken aback by how bad it looked.

Just sayin', consider the coolness/warmth of the background in not using a pure white matte. I now use a pure, bright white matte exclusively.
 

Vaughn

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I matted with a very light cool gray for a while. I then had to put up a few prints on a warm colored wall, and was pretty much taken aback by how bad it looked.

Just sayin', consider the coolness/warmth of the background in not using a pure white matte. I now use a pure, bright white matte exclusively.

Good point -- one has to consider under what conditions a print will be hung (if possible). Color prints (and toned B&W) should be printed with consideration of the type/color of lights they will be eventually be shown under -- not always possible, of course.

With colored mats to match the color of the image, one would also have to consider how two images with different colored mats will look hanging together. The color of the mats becomes important (for the better or the worse) when sequencing work in a portfolio or on the walls.

Even with all white mats in a portfolio or on the wall, one needs to be mindful of the effect of different color of whites. One or two prints with natural white might be visually jarring in a show of all bright white...no much how better the image might look on the off-white.

Vaughn
 

jovo

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This is a good thread for me to read because it's just the decision I have to make for an April show. As I have been toning my work in thiocarbamide and selenium, I have been less pleased with the bright white Crescent select mats I've always used. It would be a great help to have a set of corners to test against the prints, but my wife was told, when she called Crescent, that they're not being made available any more (we cut our own mats, so blanks are required, and I do not wish to pay to have a framer to that work for me.) Does anyone know where a set of corners could be purchased?
 

Jon Shiu

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I find under gallery lighting, an off white yellowish mat can weaken the effect of a light sepia toned print, versus a bright white museum rag board, which is more neutral.

The bright white museum board actually not very bright, it is kind of a soft white, so that may work for you. I would stay away from those "acid free" alpha-cellulose boards myself.

Jon

ps I have plenty of small pieces of Westminster Rag board if you want any
 
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RalphLambrecht

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Everybody has to find their own style. Important is to stick to it, otherwise, it is difficult to put a portfolio together. The worst thing is to have gone through a variety of mounts and present them all to an audience or a gallery. That will not come across as an homogeneous body of work.
 

DWThomas

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It would be a great help to have a set of corners to test against the prints, but my wife was told, when she called Crescent, that they're not being made available any more (we cut our own mats, so blanks are required, and I do not wish to pay to have a framer to that work for me.) Does anyone know where a set of corners could be purchased?

A halfway solution would be to buy sheets of the most likely candidates and cut your own corners. You could end up with three 16x20s, plus an 11x14 and a corner. Whatever color(s) you gave up on could be used as backing board or whatever. (I've done this in the past) I'm wondering if any of the retail peddlers of mat board might offer a set of corners for a price, but I can't recall seeing any in recent times.
 

BetterSense

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So, would anyone care to recommend as to the most "universal" color and style of matte material? I'm going to start throwing some of my prints in frames just to have them in frames. I don't know where they will be hung. They are exclusively untoned B&W on neutral RC paper.
 

Ian Grant

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Everybody has to find their own style. Important is to stick to it, otherwise, it is difficult to put a portfolio together. The worst thing is to have gone through a variety of mounts and present them all to an audience or a gallery. That will not come across as an homogeneous body of work.

I went to the opening of an Exhibition like that earlier this week, although paintings not photographs the lack of continuity/consistency in presentation made the exhibition look awful. (As did the total random sequencing, ironically the catalogue was far better the graphic designer had sequenced it).

When it comes to mount card bear in mind what it'll look like in 2, 5, 10 years time. Here in Turkey I have prints (other photographers) matted and framed 2-15 years ago, one stands out like a sore thumb because the brigh white mount card looks tired, the white's no longer pristine the core going brown.

I use conservation/museum board because that doesn't age in this way, and luckily that's how all my most valuable prints are mounted as well.

Ian
 

patrickjames

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Westminster Natural White from Light Impressions. I think like most people here that something just off of white is the best.
 

Vlad Soare

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Everybody has to find their own style. Important is to stick to it, otherwise, it is difficult to put a portfolio together. The worst thing is to have gone through a variety of mounts and present them all to an audience or a gallery. That will not come across as an homogeneous body of work.
I went to the opening of an Exhibition like that earlier this week, although paintings not photographs the lack of continuity/consistency in presentation made the exhibition look awful. (As did the total random sequencing, ironically the catalogue was far better the graphic designer had sequenced it).

What if a framing style that works well with a picture doesn't work with another? Like, say, a cold black print and a reddish sepia one? The cold print might look well with a bright white window mat and a black frame, while the sepia print might look better with a warm white (or even cream) mat and a wooden frame.
Do you choose a proper mat and frame for each picture, and then display them on different walls? Or do you try to find a "common denominator", I mean a mat and a frame that work reasonably well with both pictures even though they may not be the perfect choice for either of them?

I'd like to choose one mat+frame combination and stick with it, but I find that difficult, because it seems to me that different images call for different mats and frames. I don't like sepia images with black borders (though I do like black borders on neutral images), and neither do I like cold toned images with warm colored borders (though I do like wood-style frames with warm toned images).
On the other hand, if I choose a different framing style for each individual image, then they'll look ugly when hanged side by side on a wall - and I don't have enough walls to hang each picture separately. :sad:

How do you guys cope with this problem?
 
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fdi

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What if a framing style that works well with a picture doesn't work with another? Like, say, a cold black print and a reddish sepia one? The cold print might look well with a bright white window mat and a black frame, while the sepia print might look better with a warm white (or even cream) mat and a wooden frame.....

Bainbridge makes a slight off white mat archival 4-ply mat called “photo white” that is half way in between a bright white and a cream. Nielsen makes a black metal frame profile 117 that has a little more presence than the Nielsen profile 11, but is not too distracting and many people will mistake it for a small wood frame. Although that pairing will not make some images pop the way some custom configurations might, it will achieve the primary goal of gallery style framing which is set the image off without distracting from the image or from the theme of a collection of images.

Cheers, Mark
 

Tom Stanworth

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Mark,

I agree that these 'general use' whites are the best bet as you can mount anything in them. Sure, one of the brighter or creamier hues might be marginally better for a given print, but these medium whites are by far the best average for a body of work and looking at the mounted print on the wall with nothing to compare it it, it is extremely rare to think it would look much better in anything else (with no corner samples to play with!)

Bainbridge and colormount both used to have a nice clean but not stark general white that I found perfect. Better still colourmount had this hue and a 'soft white'. If mounting a portfolio, one might select the more appropriate of the two and use that throughout. Both lovely in texture and cut nicely.
 
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Only briefly referred to above is the issue of conservation. The "industry standard" has been white, museum quality (usually cotton rag) board for a long time because they are neutral or buffered and contain no chemicals or acids than might damage the print. If one is concerned with print permanence (galleries and museums usually are), this will naturally limit the colors of board one has to choose from to whites of varying shades and maybe a light gray or two. Bright and darker colored boards usually contain inks and pigments that may contribute to print degradation. Maybe there are some newer materials that give more museum-quality color choices now than in the past, but, for many of us, the classic look of white board provides a neutral and widely-accepted background for the presentation of the photograph, which, after all, should be the focus of attention, not the presentation itself.

I prefer white board for the above and because I find it effectively underplays the presentation while being elegant at the same time. Unfortunately, there are a number of different "whites" available. I hate it when the whites of the board clash with the whites of the print. Since I print a lot at almost paper-base white, and since this is often at the edges of the print, it is important that the tone of the mat board be compatible with print whites. A too-yellow board can look terrible, kind of like that old white dinner jacket which has yellowed over time worn over a nice new white shirt.... yuck!

Since I use mostly cold-tone papers, I have chosen a bright-white board from Bainbridge (Alpharag Artcare board) for most of my work. Some prints I have with a bit creamier base, and find that the bright white Westminster board, which is slightly yellower than the Bainbridge, works well.

I'm still trying out other tones....

Best,

Doremus Scudder
www.DoremusScudder.com
 
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benjiboy

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The original question is what's called in boxing "leading with your chin ":smile:
 

Reinhold

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Take a look at Crescent "Bakers White"

Their "Select" (Alpha Cellulose fiber) #9800, or their Black Core #9900.
It's a very neutral bone white that I find works beautifully with any Selenium toned B&W image.
It is equally comfortable with Brown or Sepia toned prints.
A truly universal color for monochrome photography (and ideal for color, too).

Over the past 25+ years of fighting with the fickle foibles of the framing industry and their penchant for pushing the "Latest Trend" in designer colors, (determined by designer artistes pirouetting around in their tu-tu's), I finally found the softly subtle clean Bakers White to fit my presentation style beautifully.

If you're comfortable with something less than Rag or Alpha Cellulose fibers, Bakers White is also available in their International Whitecore #SRM3400.

Phone Crescent at 800-323-1055 and ask for their matboard specifiers.

Reinhold

www.classicBWphoto.com
 

jeffm2009

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I generally use bright white mat board but it really depends on the situation - grey is my next top choice. Bakers White, as mentioned above, was one of my favorites for a while but I have since switched to a different one.
 

jeffreyg

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Westminster 100% rag museum quality bright white for silver prints and natural white for pt/pd from Light Impressions.
 
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