Do you use resin-coated paper?

[Jim Noel]

NEVER!!

The internal contrast is missing much as it is that that other "innovation" which uses a lighted room rather than a dark one!

 

[MikeM1977]

Is it possible the overmat is not an acid free museum board? I would check that, as that can cause the yellow staining.

Yes, it is cheap mat board from my local Hobby Lobby. I realize its not archival. However from the dozens of photos I've matted with this stuff, the only print that yellowed at the edges is an RC print. Could be coincidence, or could show that RC paper is more susceptable to environmental factors like acid from a cheap mat.

 

[Q17]

I prefer to look at FB prints. Since I lack space more than anything else in my darkroom, I just keep FB papers on hand for everything, including contact sheets.

=michelle=

 

[JBrunner]

Back in high school I started with RC. When I came back to the darkroom in serious form, I weighed RC vs fiber, and found that with the developers and procedures I use, I get much better results with the fiber, so fiber it is, for me. I use diffusion washing, so water use is kept to a minimum.

 

[Maris]

Fibre base for me always.

My partner now uses RC only for test strips and trial proofs. The pictures that count then get made on fibre base and she throws all the RC in the bin at the end of the darkroom session.

Even more extreme is what she did some years ago. All her old work on RC (before the FB committment) including 8x10 contacts, gorgeous hand coloured work, selective toned stuff etc got cut up into small pieces because it was on RC. We are still using the backs of these papers for shopping lists. That has got to go close to artistic vandalism. Don't worry, I've been forgiven for saying so.

 

[André E.C.]

Yes, I do use RC paper, Ilford MGIV RC de luxe satin, it`s a very nice paper indeed.

Cheers

André

 

[arigram]

I mostly use RC paper (Ilford Multigrade IV)
I am really concious of the water which over here it is a luxury.
Plus they are more expensive and very hard to find here, I have to make a special order.
They also a pain to dry well.

I really only use them in special occusions like toning or lith.

I have found no difference in tonallity and the only thing I like about them is the
color if they are warm and their texture.

They are not worth it most of the time in my opinion.

 

[tony lockerbie]

I use RC only for prints that are to be put in albums etc. or proof sheets. The reason being that RC is not at all permanent for images that will be framed.
Having printed many Rc photos over the years that have ended up framed I have noticed that a great many of them have yellowed or silvered out.
All of these were displayed in a variety of conditions from fairly dark to well lit rooms. I am very careful with my handling of the papers, not fixing too long or over washing etc.
The papers involved were mostly Agfa MC Classic and Ilford MG111 and 1V RC. I have taken ths problem to heart as it reflects badly on me to have photos that I have printed deteriorating so quickly (from as little as 2 years!)
Just the other day a customer brought in a print that I had done 4 years ago and had framed with the emulsion literally cracking and falling of the backing!
None of the fibre prints that I have done in the last 30years show any signs of deterioation. Also the Rc prints that I have that are notframed seem to have lasted well. The problem seems to be in the titanium dioxide whitening layer of the RC papers. As expected the manufacturers don't want to know especially Agfa who claimed to it was just processing error.
I have since found this problem described in Laurence Keefe and Dennis Inch's book- "The life of a photograph" a must read for those displaying photos.
Sorry about to long windedness but it's a subject that is close to my heart as we all like our images to be around for a long time.
Cheers, Tony

 

[Jerevan]

I use diffusion washing, so water use is kept to a minimum.

Just gotta ask - what's that? How does it work?

Me, I am a sucker for Ilfords FB, matt version - combined with HCA I can shorten the wash times enough to not bother with RC. The only thing that maybe could get me to use RC would be that it costs less and I like the MGIV Satin finish of the RC. Or if the variocontrast RC was made in the semi-matt finish as Ilfospeed is.

 

[fhovie]

I recently bought 700 sheets of 8x10 on e-bay for next to nothing. Sadly, I have many negatives that are worth one print but not any attention past that. There are also prints I will give to people that will likely never see a wall. For all these, less than wonderful images, there is RC paper. Cheap, fast, easy to work with, quicker to wash, non curling. A great image will not see RC paper. RC paper reminds me of a new hand held DVD player with the plastic protector still on the screen. The image is kind of crappy till you peel off the plastic over-layer. Of course, on RC paper, you cannot peel off the plastic overlayer and as time passes, that plastic overlayer gets cloudy from reactions with the air and light. For worthy images, FB is the only thing I use. They curl and shrink and take a long time to develop and wash. The thicker paper holds more chemistry. But when the FB print is done, you are looking into a deep richness of tonality that is unclouded by a plastic overlayer. It is really a thing of beauty!

 

[Bob F.]

As a convicted print-sniffer, I always prefer fibre: the plastic finish on RC is really not pleasant - too mechanical. I've seen many very fine prints on RC however, and once the print is mounted behind glass, I would be pushed to tell the difference.

When printing, I always use FB for final prints that I think are worth keeping. It's partly an aesthetic response to the paper in the chemicals: all floppy, it's real paper. The plastic coated stuff is just too rigid and mechanical. Makes no logical sense, but there you go...

Cheers, Bob.

 

[PatTrent]

Only for proof sheets and quick prints. It's a personal prejudice with me--I don't like the feel of plastic in a print. I feel guilty about the water, so I do everything else I can to conserve it.

 

[Dave Miller]

SNIP_you cannot peel off the plastic overlayer and as time passes, that plastic overlayer gets cloudy from reactions with the air and light.

May I offer a small correction to an oft-mentioned non-fact:

There is no plastic overlayer on R/C paper; it's an underlayer, below the emulsion, so does not effect the image quality.

 

[JBrunner]

Just gotta ask - what's that? How does it work?

During my wash regimen, the washer is not run constantly. The prints go in to the washer, the washer is cycled with wash time, and soak time. Prints need a combination of agitation and just plain time in water to come clean. The time needed for chems to diffuse into the water is greater than the amount of agitation needed, so an initial wash period, several 5 min soakings, turning the water over with each interval, and a final period of washing, does the same job and requires much less water (about 50% less), than just running the washer. It does require paying attention to your washing, however.

 

[catem]

During my wash regimen, the washer is not run constantly. The prints go in to the washer, the washer is cycled with wash time, and soak time. Prints need a combination of agitation and just plain time in water to come clean. The time needed for chems to diffuse into the water is greater than the amount of agitation needed, so an initial wash period, several 5 min soakings, turning the water over with each interval, and a final period of washing, does the same job and requires much less water (about 50% less), than just running the washer. It does require paying attention to your washing, however.

Since reading stuff on this forum I've been doing a mixture of 'running water' and soaking - with still quite a bit of 'running' just because old habits die hard. I don't have a washer but use several trays. I do still seem to use an awful lot of water - I wonder how long you spend on the 'agitation' bits? I've been doing at least three ten minute goes at soaking, with probably total half an hour running water.

Thanks for all the replies here - It has inspired me to try out a couple of other RC papers, though I don't think I'm ultimately going to change my practice all that much - there's something about FB that I think is worth the effort, for a lot of things if not everything. But who knows I may be impressed with what I try. Or maybe I'll just take less showers and then I won't feel so guilty about the water. I'm sure my family would be delighted by that. Or maybe I'll just stop washing the kids.......(actually they wash themselves but you know what I mean
Cate

 

[Changeling1]

No substitute...

When I first learnt about fine printing some years ago, resin-coated was always seen as 'second best', at least by many people in many respects, though excellent for particular uses.
However the more I read about it, the more it seems many people consider it a serious alternative both in terms of quality and possibly even longevity.
For the past 8 years or so I have only used it for contact sheets and occasionally proof prints, if I'm not certain I want to work on a neg (always Ilford Multi)

So what do people think? Has anything changed in this time? Does RC come close to FB? If so, any favourites??
I welcome your comments and experience.....

Cate

The "look" of RC paper can be quite acceptable but there's no substitute for the feel of a double-weight FB in your hands! The Ilford DW MC FB Glossy paper is gorgeous... with all the advantages of an MC paper.

 

[eumenius]

A glossy VC RC paper made by Foma - for proofing, and for all quick-go works like small exhibitions (print - hang - give a gift or trash), all scientific work where a high gloss is required (electron microphotography), large formats (from 12*16'' up). Different FB papers (Fomabrom, Fortezo, Slavich Unibrom and Bromportret) - in graded (mostly) and VC varieties, in glossy and matte surfaces, single and double weight, for all keepers I usually leave FB prints to dry in open air, then I straighten them with iron on base side, and put them for 24h in a book - works fine for me.

Zhenya

 

[jmailand]

I use both RC and Fiber, it just seams to depend on my mood at the time. I have to wash prints in kitchen sink or bathtub. I don't have running water in my darkroom. When I do use RC I use paper with a "lustre" finish like Kodak use to make , and Kentmore makes, because they seam less reflective then RC Glossy and more like fiber paper. I must agree though that real fiber paper looks better.

James,

 

[dancqu]

So what do people think?
Has anything changed in this time?
Does RC come close to FB? Cate

Likely it's just as stiff as when first brought
out. RC is not nearly as flexible when wet as
is FB. Special trays are made for processing RC.
Although Graded paper is my choice, I dim the
lights and switch to ready cut 5x7 VC FB for
proofs and tests. Dan

 

[catem]

Just as a follow-up to this, I used some Ilford Multi RC Portfolio. It is very nice paper - but it's only just dawned on me how expensive it is! (bought it with other stuff, not really paying full attention). As it costs more than FB, this will probably put me off using it too often...
Cate