Do you use primarily FB or RC paper?

[JLP]

FB only and whenever possible graded paper. Grade 2 is pretty much the only graded paper is stock up on. Try to control contrast when exposing the negative and should it fail (Often does) i don't go to any extreme to get a print but admit that it didn't work out and go on.
No experience with RC and as long as there is FB paper to get, i will buy it.
That said, thanks to so many on this APUG forum, some who have published excelent books on printing techniques which has helped me not only to learn more about exposing the film correct but also how to get the best out of a less than perfect negative.

 

[Mick Fagan]

RC through and through. I used fibre paper from the 60s through to late 70s.

I then started to use RC for quick work, having access to a commercial lab with an RC paper dryer was an absolute revelation.

When I set up my current darkroom 18 years ago, I had an Ilford 20" wide RC paper dryer. I put bucket loads of colour and B&W paper through it, as well as thousands of sheets of lith film (for my business).

I no longer use lith film for business, the Ilford paper dryer died and I went back for a short while to using Ilford Galerie for show work and Ilford RC MG for work prints.

When Ilford MGIV came out I started to use it more and more. Finally when my last galerie box was finished, I didn't buy any fibre paper.

Haven't used fibre paper for about 3 years now.

Mick.

 

[photo8x10]

I usually use FB paper, mainly I use AZO but for some works I use Ilford Galerie grade papers or Ilford multigrade papers. I love feeling FB papers.
RC papers I used to learn to print, and sometimes I still use them to little works.

Best

Stefano

 

[Jerevan]

I have tested RC papers. They "work" but I prefer the look of fibre prints. I've used Kentmere and Ilford (matt and glossy). I'd like to test graded papers but it seems a bit finicky, sloshing with different dilutions of print developer and figuring out developing times. Could be that I'd need to start at the other end of the chain, making negatives that print easily on grade 2 or 3.

 

[Jack Lusted]

When I restarted doing darkroom work I used RC. I thought it was wonderful. However, I was accidentally sent some FB and, instead of sending it back with a stiff note, decided to trust in providence and give it a go.
Okay, not as easy as RC, but actually not massively more difficult, and, yes, the prints seem nicer. Perhaps it's because they have a more hand crafted feel about them.
Still use RC for contacts and quick prints, but that will only be until I run out of the RC. I'm a hobbiest and space is at a premium so I don't need more boxes than is really necessary.

 

[smieglitz]

Rc is good for begginers who dont have arcival washing, toniing. my best negs will be printed on FB paper once i get a good washer

All you need is a tray to wash archivally. Fill and dump it a few times over the course of a half hour.

I strongly disagree with your statement that RC is "good for begginers" because you do yourself a disservice using inferior materials and you never realize the potential of your negative with it. The best you can do with RC is inferior and that prevents learning all you can. It is like trying to learn oil painting with a cheap brush and student-grade paints that have inferior pigment strengths and lots of filler. Don't hinder yourself with inferior materials. Your work suffers for it.

RC is just cheap and convenient. It doesn't have the same potential quality as fiber paper and you limit yourself by using it.

Try spelling CRap without RC...

My $0.02

Joe

 

[Lachlan Young]

FB both VC and graded - I tried RC which is fine for basic proofing but little else. Anyway FB is much less hassle - it even dries quicker! Current favourite paper is ADOX Fineprint which I have heard is very nice when developed in Amidol - just need to start saving up...

Lachlan

 

[Markok765]

All you need is a tray to wash archivally. Fill and dump it a few times over the course of a half hour.

I strongly disagree with your statement that RC is "good for begginers" because you do yourself a disservice using inferior materials and you never realize the potential of your negative with it. The best you can do with RC is inferior and that prevents learning all you can. It is like trying to learn oil painting with a cheap brush and student-grade paints that have inferior pigment strengths and lots of filler. Don't hinder yourself with inferior materials. Your work suffers for it.

RC is just cheap and convenient. It doesn't have the same potential quality as fiber paper and you limit yourself by using it.

Try spelling CRap without RC...

My $0.02

Joe

It is good because it is easier and cheaper for begginers to make mistakes on rc

 

[craigclu]

It seems that the bulk of my darkroom work over the last few years has been related to activities of my high school son's.... Soccer games, theater, concerts, downhill ski races, etc. I'm always hurrying to get my negatives done and scannable for the local newspaper and then typically printing many RC 8X10's to give away to other students and parents, etc. RC is the only real option and I'd say that 80-90% of my printing during this time has been RC. When I have the time, I go back and print more meaningful negatives/images onto an appropriate FB paper, properly tone them, etc. My son just graduated and in going to 20+ graduation parties, most of them featured many prints that I had given them over the years and it was very gratifying. Now that he'll be off to college, I'll regroup and get back to more serious darkroom work again and I expect to be 90% FB once more. I've lately liked the effect of glossy FB papers dried on cloth apron driers with the image side to the cloth. It cuts the total gloss and still gives the more intense blacks that glossy provides.

 

[eddym]

Not really - I discovered 99% of my negatives printed best on grade 2. So to avoid any differences between my two enlargers (one 35mm to MF, one MF to 5x7") due to differences in colour temperature and so on, I buy grade 2 paper. Slight adjustments to contrast are done by adjusting the developer, if I need more than +- 1/2 grade I've messed up and will find an other negative.

I'm with Ole, so I guess we are both elitists! I use a 20 year old Zone VI cold light head, and haven't printed on RC paper in about 25 years. So I do everything on graded FB, mostly Ilford Galerie. I have been using Bergger CB Art Warm tone lately, and love it.

--Eddy