Do you use a light meter? What kind?

[Sirius Glass]

I have used a number of handheld light meters and now, in addition to built in meters, I use the Sekonic 308L for incidence readings and the Pentax Digital Spot meter for Zone System readings.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Center metering on the top would pick up the bright sky in the background unless you aimed the meter down. An incident meter might be better. It also is a bad place to shoot. A darker background like your second shot wouldn't complete with the subject. Also, her back seems a little too burned out. But that could just be lighting conditions rather than metering.

Without looking at the negatives, it's hard to tell if exposure is right. It could just be your post processing that needs adjusting. Why don't you try backeting on a couple of rolls o film? Shoot let's say 1/2 or 1 stop above and below your initial exposure reading shoot. Then compare the three and see how you do. You'll learn a lot that way as to what adjustments you may want to do going forward.Pay attention to the histograms when you scan. Also, scan flat and do the adjustments in post. If you scan with auto adjustments during the scan, you really don;t know what you have because the scan settings will adjust out the actual negative values captured.

 

[brainmonster]

Center metering on the top would pick up the bright sky in the background unless you aimed the meter down. An incident meter might be better. It also is a bad place to shoot. A darker background like your second shot wouldn't complete with the subject. Also, her back seems a little too burned out. But that could just be lighting conditions rather than metering.

Without looking at the negatives, it's hard to tell if exposure is right. It could just be your post processing that needs adjusting. Why don't you try backeting on a couple of rolls o film? Shoot let's say 1/2 or 1 stop above and below your initial exposure reading shoot. Then compare the three and see how you do. You'll learn a lot that way as to what adjustments you may want to do going forward.Pay attention to the histograms when you scan. Also, scan flat and do the adjustments in post. If you scan with auto adjustments during the scan, you really don;t know what you have because the scan settings will adjust out the actual negative values captured.

Thanks, so you're saying basically that lack of spot metering can be compensated for? I'm having a little bit of "second guessing" purchase of my camera, but it seems like lack of spot metering may not be a deal breaker. Perhaps I'm just trying to be too exacting with all of this. I will try to do my own adjustments on scanning for important shots.

 

[Veselin Mihaylov]

I use a Sekonic L-758DR for studio work and sometimes when i am out to shoot landscapes as it has a 1 degree spot meter. I recently bought Sekonic TwinMate L-208 which i use with my folders due to it's small size, and which replaced my Gossen Linasix F and Lunasix 3.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Thanks, so you're saying basically that lack of spot metering can be compensated for? I'm having a little bit of "second guessing" purchase of my camera, but it seems like lack of spot metering may not be a deal breaker. Perhaps I'm just trying to be too exacting with all of this. I will try to do my own adjustments on scanning for important shots.

I don't use spot metering but others swear by it. Frankly, since you have a built in meter, I'd use it first to see if it works for you before buying another light meter. Keep it simple.

 

[Ariston]

A smartphone app is really all you need. Especially for negative film.

I have and use a spot meter and an incident meter, but I really only use them because I enjoy analyzing a scene and making those decisions myself. Even still, 99% of the time I choose the same exposure my phone would.

 

[brainmonster]

Sounds good, I will just use my phone to check for spot metering in that case.

A smartphone app is really all you need. Especially for negative film.

I have and use a spot meter and an incident meter, but I really only use them because I enjoy analyzing a scene and making those decisions myself. Even still, 99% of the time I choose the same exposure my phone would.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've been using a Minolta Spot Metre F since 1992. I also have the IV F, as it will do both reflective and incident.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks, so you're saying basically that lack of spot metering can be compensated for? I'm having a little bit of "second guessing" purchase of my camera, but it seems like lack of spot metering may not be a deal breaker. Perhaps I'm just trying to be too exacting with all of this. I will try to do my own adjustments on scanning for important shots.

Never meter the sky. It will fall into place. Instead meter without the sky with built in meters.

 

[Luis-F-S]

I either use the meter in my M6, or I use a Zone VI modified Pentax Digital. Have two I bought new many years ago!

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Never meter the sky. It will fall into place. Instead meter without the sky with built in meters.

Wouldn't that depend on whether you're shooting color chromes or BW negative film. If you're metering the ground only, you could overexpose and blow out the sky with chromes.

 

[Veselin Mihaylov]

Never meter the sky. It will fall into place. Instead meter without the sky with built in meters.

In this case and with the built in meter i would actually take two readings, one of the sky and one of the ground.
After that i can decide depending on the film and the image i want to achieve what shutter speed and aperture should i use.

 

[Vincent Peri]

I use a Pentax Spotmeter V two degree spot meter often when I shoot B&W film.

 

[AndyH]

I have a LOT of meters, and use them all, based on the specific conditions.

These include a number of Westons, a Pentax spot meter, a couple of shoe-mounted Kodalux and Metrophot units, and a Hasselblad knob meter. All are analog, which I greatly prefer in most situations as it's easier for me to visualize my final zones. But I have to say that my six Gossen meters, with 5 degree spot attachments, are my favorites for analogue use. Easily adaptable to zone use, they are accurate and consistent - have been so for a half century or more.

Andy

 

[Vaughn]

With experience, the in-camera meter should be fine. Bracket the exposure of skin tones in different light, and see which scans work the best for you. If there is a pattern (for example, 1/2 stop more exposure than the meter reading) you'll know which way to bias your exposures. Do the same with landscapes...though pay more attention to shadow detail there and what the scans can bring out of the shadows.

I use a Pentax Digital Spot Meter for my Rolleicord and LF cameras. It would be a quick easy repeatable way to measure skin tones quickly, but moving the camera closer for metering just the skin tones works, too.

 

[removed account4]

haven't used a meter ( in or out of camera ) in a while but when I do, I use a seckonic L39A. or a luna pro sbc ...
I have gotten good at sunny 11 or just long exposed retina prints and never use a meter...