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do you standardize your film?

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I'm a relative newbie, so I muck about with different films to see what they can do. I have particularly liked the look of TMAX so far, and picked up a batch of Delta as its apparently similar but slightly different. I was incredibly suprised when measuring the contrast index for my 135 TMAX 400 that it was significantly lower than recommended, even though I have been fastidious with control of development previously. I'm now developing it for something like 10 minutes at 22 deg C.

I could see the advantage of trying to perfect the settings for a single film, but you may have just found a "local minima". I guess my approach could be likened to simulated annealing: jumping round films and then attempting to get good in the one you are presently using, only to heat things up and jump again at a later date. There needs to be some form of stopping criterion I guess.
 
I'm a relative newbie, so I muck about with different films to see what they can do. I have particularly liked the look of TMAX so far, and picked up a batch of Delta as its apparently similar but slightly different. I was incredibly suprised when measuring the contrast index for my 135 TMAX 400 that it was significantly lower than recommended, even though I have been fastidious with control of development previously. I'm now developing it for something like 10 minutes at 22 deg C.

I could see the advantage of trying to perfect the settings for a single film, but you may have just found a "local minima". I guess my approach could be likened to simulated annealing: jumping round films and then attempting to get good in the one you are presently using, only to heat things up and jump again at a later date. There needs to be some form of stopping criterion I guess.

Try Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5+ and see what a traditional film grain does for you.
 
Standardization

The biggest problem is standardizing on a particular film, then not only is it discontinued, the company goes out of business! That's what happened to me with Efke 25 & 100. Then moved to Rollei R3, and that was discontinued too. My main color was E100 VS, that's gone too, and Fuji color is not for me.

Speaking of, when living on Maui, I standardized on Neopan 400 in 120, and now that's gone too.

For portraits, I use HP5+ for the fine grain, and lower contrast. Tri-X isn't for everything, and I still need to try the new Rollei RPX films. Will need a new color film, and that leaves me with Rollei slide films, since Kodak made the insane decision to stop making theirs, completely.

Yes, you can standardize on 1 film, but make sure you have a backup in case any bean counters suddenly decide to stop making the 1 film you prefer.
 
80% of the time I shoot Forma 200 in 35mm, 120, and 4X5, I have a roll of bulk 35mm Forma 400 that I load 8 to 12 frames, on occasion I shoot 35mm Tmax 400 when I need higher ISO. For color I shoot Extak 100 and Kodacolor 100, I am down to my last few rolls and will replace with Kodacolor 200.
 
For 35 and MF I choose according to the anticipated light or my mood.
Sometimes it might be Ilford SFX, other times Plus X, or a Tmax or Tri X, or else color something.
 
The biggest problem is standardizing on a particular film, then not only is it discontinued, the company goes out of business! That's what happened to me with Efke 25 & 100. Then moved to Rollei R3, and that was discontinued too. My main color was E100 VS, that's gone too, and Fuji color is not for me.

Speaking of, when living on Maui, I standardized on Neopan 400 in 120, and now that's gone too.

For portraits, I use HP5+ for the fine grain, and lower contrast. Tri-X isn't for everything, and I still need to try the new Rollei RPX films. Will need a new color film, and that leaves me with Rollei slide films, since Kodak made the insane decision to stop making theirs, completely.

Yes, you can standardize on 1 film, but make sure you have a backup in case any bean counters suddenly decide to stop making the 1 film you prefer.

I know, I know, it's a color negative film, but you really should try Ektar 100 - it is the second coming of Kodachrome. Super fine grain, punchy, sharp color, but not Fuji "ow-my-eyes-are-bleeding" saturated, plus you'll not blow a highlight like you would with chromes.
 
The biggest problem is standardizing on a particular film, then not only is it discontinued, the company goes out of business! That's what happened to me with Efke 25 & 100. Then moved to Rollei R3, and that was discontinued too. My main color was E100 VS, that's gone too, and Fuji color is not for me.

Speaking of, when living on Maui, I standardized on Neopan 400 in 120, and now that's gone too.

For portraits, I use HP5+ for the fine grain, and lower contrast. Tri-X isn't for everything, and I still need to try the new Rollei RPX films. Will need a new color film, and that leaves me with Rollei slide films, since Kodak made the insane decision to stop making theirs, completely.

Yes, you can standardize on 1 film, but make sure you have a backup in case any bean counters suddenly decide to stop making the 1 film you prefer.

That is why when I hear of a film being discontinued or a film company going out of business I buy up all those products I can and put them in the freezer. I keep the last of the stock from the hoarders.
 
I do what I can. :smile:
 
I have standardized on FP4+ for 35 in summer and HP5+ in winter. In 120, my standard is Acros for the 'blad when walking around and APX25 on the tripod. On my Mamiya7, Acros is my standard in summer and Delta 400 is the standard in winter. To conclude, yes, I have standardized on film :smile:

My only developer is Pyrocat-MC, though, for all formats in summer and in winter.

Lars
 
I have standardized on FP4+ for 35 in summer and HP5+ in winter. In 120, my standard is Acros for the 'blad when walking around and APX25 on the tripod. On my Mamiya7, Acros is my standard in summer and Delta 400 is the standard in winter. To conclude, yes, I have standardized on film :smile:

Lars

Maybe you haven't settled on one film for all time, but it sound like you at least have a system. That's better than I was until recently. I suppose it's not important that my sheet film be the same as my roll film because I develop it differently anyway.

I always liked the idea of using Tmax 100 and tmax 400 side by side, because they have the same development times. However, I just don't find TMX to be the most versatile 100 speed film for me. Then again when I use FP4 I find it has minimal graininess advantage over TMY.
 
I do dabble with a few other films but I take a lot of notes. For anything serious like a portrait that's really important I always use my favorite FP4 125. It never fails me. Unless of coarse I fail it......
 
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