Do you have a link to a manual for the Plaubel Peco Profia 4x5?

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Hey there,

I'm looking for a link to the manual for this camera. Have any of you seen a scan of it online?

Also, please let me know if you have any special experience with it. E.g., is there something people not used to it tend to break...
 

abruzzi

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I've never seen a manual for the Profia. The manuals I've seen for other Plaubel view cameras a little more that a name for each of the controls. Most view camera manuals I've seen are pretty basic.

If the Profia is anything like the Plauble Universal III I have, breaking it is probably not a concern.
 

gordrob

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I have both the 4x5 and 5x7 Plaubel Peco Profia and have never come across an instruction manual for them. The camera is a well constructed and well machined camera that have not presented me with any major issues over the years of use. Accessories are easy to find but not a popular camera on this side of the Atlantic. If you are going to shoot any wide angle photos the short rail is a must.
Gord
 
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I've never seen a manual for the Profia. The manuals I've seen for other Plaubel view cameras a little more that a name for each of the controls. Most view camera manuals I've seen are pretty basic.

If the Profia is anything like the Plauble Universal III I have, breaking it is probably not a concern.

Thank you.

I have both the 4x5 and 5x7 Plaubel Peco Profia and have never come across an instruction manual for them. The camera is a well constructed and well machined camera that have not presented me with any major issues over the years of use. Accessories are easy to find but not a popular camera on this side of the Atlantic. If you are going to shoot any wide angle photos the short rail is a must.
Gord

Do you or @Nokton48 know if Plaubel made something comparable to the pop up shade on the focusing screen of a Graflex Crown Graphic? The focusing screen on the Profia is dim even with my F4.7 lens wide open and a dark cloth.
 

_T_

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If the screen is dim with a focusing cloth it’s going to be even more dim with shade.

The brightness of the screen is dependent on the brightness of the scene, but if the screen is too dim to use outdoors during the day you might have to clean or replace the screen. If it’s only a problem under lower lighting conditions you might benefit from a fresnel.
 

gordrob

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I don't have any problem with the brightness of the ground glass on my Peco Profia. As was said above you may need to clean or replace the screen or add a fresnel to it.
 
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If the screen is dim with a focusing cloth it’s going to be even more dim with shade.

The brightness of the screen is dependent on the brightness of the scene, but if the screen is too dim to use outdoors during the day you might have to clean or replace the screen. If it’s only a problem under lower lighting conditions you might benefit from a fresnel.

I'm confused about your first statement, so let me restate what I meant.

I cannot see an image on the focusing screen of the Profia indoors if I don't use a focusing cloth. However, when I use one, I can see a dim image on the Profia's focusing screen.

I tried putting the pop-up shade from my Crown Graphic around the focusing screen on the Profia, and I started to see a faint image. The image on the focusing screen becomes easier to see when I make the area around it darker.

If I had a pop-up shade on the Profia, it would be easier to see the image in any lighting conditions. The problem is that the image I see on the Profia is still much darker than the one on the Crown Graphic in the same conditions.

I don't have any problem with the brightness of the ground glass on my Peco Profia. As was said above you may need to clean or replace the screen or add a fresnel to it.

The screen doesn't have a fresnel. Did either of you (@_T_ , @gordrob) buy a fresnel for yours? If so, where did you get it?
 

Nokton48

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I'll try to find some pieces I have and photograph them. I think they might help you if you can find them. Ebay.UK and Ebay.de are good resources from European sellers, more likely to have great stuff. Once you know what you need, it's like treasure hunting in a way. Or stamp collecting, once you have a picture of what you need.
 
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I'll try to find some pieces I have and photograph them. I think they might help you if you can find them. Ebay.UK and Ebay.de are good resources from European sellers, more likely to have great stuff. Once you know what you need, it's like treasure hunting in a way. Or stamp collecting, once you have a picture of what you need.

Thank you!
 

_T_

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The problem is that the image I see on the Profia is still much darker than the one on the Crown Graphic in the same conditions.

It sounds like you might need to clean your screen. It’s not too difficult. I can’t tell you how to remove it but it’s usually pretty simple for most cameras.

Once you have the glass separated from the frame you can clean it in a solution of water with dish soap and some q-tips or a cotton ball, something that won’t scratch glass. I find it best to submerge the glass in the solution and slowly work over every cm bit by bit in small circles.

Once you’ve cleaned both sides with soap you can rinse the glass. I always use distilled water to rinse the glass so that I don’t get drying spots. Actually I always use distilled water for the entire cleaning process just in case but I’m not certain it’s necessary. You need to rinse it very thoroughly. It’s easy to get all the soap off if you rinse it properly but if you let soap residue dry on the ground surface it’s going to be a lot more work to get it back off.

The final step is to dry the glass. This can be difficult because if you use the wrong material you will rub lint into the ground surface and you’ll have to start all over. I use pec pads as they don’t scratch and are completely lint free but if you don’t have anything like that you can always let the glass air dry, but it will take longer.

If after a thorough cleaning you don’t see the improvement in image brightness you’re looking for, you might need to replace the ground glass. Some manufacturers produce better quality ground glass than others, some are brighter and produce a clearer image.

If your current glass isn’t up to the task you’ll have to find a replacement that will outperform it. I can’t help you there. I’ve never had to replace a ground glass screen. There is a vendor on ebay that makes custom ones. I don’t know how good they are but it might be possible to get one that fits your camera from them. There might be other options out there. I’m not sure.
 

Nokton48

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Profia 101 No 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Profia 101 No 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Profia 101 No 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr

There is a Guy on Ebay that custom cuts fresnels, see the two on the right hand side. I had to cut four slots with a dremel, to accomodate the clips. One locked in, the other needed strips of Scotch Magic Tape to hold it down. Works good and removable. Fresnel side has to face the glass. The back in the upper left takes RADA 9x12cm Single Shot Metal Plates, so the European Way. The other three are Graflex Graphic 4x5 Bail Backs.

Profia 101 No 4 by Nokton48, on Flickr

TTL Metering on the groundglass with the Plaubel Peco Profia Lunasix Adapter. Works good! Needs Bag Bellows on the back, for proper viewing. Which I also have

Profia 101 No 5 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I sawed a long rail in half, to get two Short Rails. Necessary for Wide Work
 
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It sounds like you might need to clean your screen. It’s not too difficult. I can’t tell you how to remove it but it’s usually pretty simple for most cameras.

Once you have the glass separated from the frame you can clean it in a solution of water with dish soap and some q-tips or a cotton ball, something that won’t scratch glass. I find it best to submerge the glass in the solution and slowly work over every cm bit by bit in small circles.

Once you’ve cleaned both sides with soap you can rinse the glass. I always use distilled water to rinse the glass so that I don’t get drying spots. Actually I always use distilled water for the entire cleaning process just in case but I’m not certain it’s necessary. You need to rinse it very thoroughly. It’s easy to get all the soap off if you rinse it properly but if you let soap residue dry on the ground surface it’s going to be a lot more work to get it back off.

The final step is to dry the glass. This can be difficult because if you use the wrong material you will rub lint into the ground surface and you’ll have to start all over. I use pec pads as they don’t scratch and are completely lint free but if you don’t have anything like that you can always let the glass air dry, but it will take longer.

If after a thorough cleaning you don’t see the improvement in image brightness you’re looking for, you might need to replace the ground glass. Some manufacturers produce better quality ground glass than others, some are brighter and produce a clearer image.

If your current glass isn’t up to the task you’ll have to find a replacement that will outperform it. I can’t help you there. I’ve never had to replace a ground glass screen. There is a vendor on ebay that makes custom ones. I don’t know how good they are but it might be possible to get one that fits your camera from them. There might be other options out there. I’m not sure.

Thanks! I might try that. I took the camera for a spin late at night and still managed to get a sharp shot so it seems like the screen is "good enough" to carry on for now despite how dark it is.

There are eBay sellers that make replacement focusing screens. I'll update this thread for us if I end up trying one.
 
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Profia 101 No 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Profia 101 No 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Profia 101 No 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr

There is a Guy on Ebay that custom cuts fresnels, see the two on the right hand side. I had to cut four slots with a dremel, to accomodate the clips. One locked in, the other needed strips of Scotch Magic Tape to hold it down. Works good and removable. Fresnel side has to face the glass. The back in the upper left takes RADA 9x12cm Single Shot Metal Plates, so the European Way. The other three are Graflex Graphic 4x5 Bail Backs.

Profia 101 No 4 by Nokton48, on Flickr

TTL Metering on the groundglass with the Plaubel Peco Profia Lunasix Adapter. Works good! Needs Bag Bellows on the back, for proper viewing. Which I also have

Profia 101 No 5 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I sawed a long rail in half, to get two Short Rails. Necessary for Wide Work

Thanks! I've been M.I.A. for a while but I appreciate your post. I just saw it. Do you recall the name of the eBay seller that sold you the focusing screen? You're crafty.

I never knew TTL metering on 4x5 was a thing. Interesting accessory.
 

Nokton48

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Thanks! I've been M.I.A. for a while but I appreciate your post. I just saw it. Do you recall the name of the eBay seller that sold you the focusing screen? You're crafty.

I never knew TTL metering on 4x5 was a thing. Interesting accessory.

I got mine from this fellow, I measured carefully and he cut it to the size I needed. He also made Plaubel Fresnels for my my Makinas, an odd size around 6.5x9cm. So ask before purchasing.

 
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lobitar

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I have the angled finder (w. mirror & 2x magnifying) f. my Profia 4x5. Can be used both horizontaly and vertically and is a joy to use. Recommended! (if you can find it; I've bought mine locally abt. a decade ago, and haven't searched for it on eBay etc). I think it's the item with no PS 440/6 on Nokton's list. (apologize for the messy pictures)
 

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OP
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I have the angled finder (w. mirror & 2x magnifying) f. my Profia 4x5. Can be used both horizontaly and vertically and is a joy to use. Recommended! (if you can find it; I've bought mine locally abt. a decade ago, and haven't searched for it on eBay etc). I think it's the item with no PS 440/6 on Nokton's list. (apologize for the messy pictures)

This is interesting, thank you. I'm guessing you can see the whole focusing screen and it's easy for you to adjust focus on the four corners with the view?
 

lobitar

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You can see the whole focusing screen okay, but with wide angle lenses there is always the problem with darkened corners. (But I don't personally use wide angle lenses often).
 
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