Do you do your own CLA?

[saman13]

Do you CLA your "new" cameras yourself or have them sent off? I'm interested in what all goes into a CLA so I might be able to do the basic aspects of one myself.
So, if you do:

What do you clean and what do you use to do it? I'd assume the film chamber but do you actually open the camera up to clean the inside?

What do you lubricate, what do you use, and how do you know what needs to be lubricated?

And what all do you adjust? Just shutter speeds? I have a couple of Nikon F2 finders that need to be adjusted and I found a nice document on how to accomplish that so I'll be trying that soon.

I'm interested in doing this myself because I enjoy getting to know how cameras work and I like being able to fix my cameras myself so I'd rather not just throw my camera and money at someone else. I've brought a couple of Canonets and Minoltas back from the grave but those bodies aren't terribly complicated. I'm interested to know how other people approach this!

 

[Europan]

My Folmer Graflex I took to a large format cameras specialist we have in town.

The rest of my equipment are film motion-picture cameras which I all CLA myself. The lenses, too.
Just having a D-mount Angénieux K3 disassembled, not quite to be honest. What a darn mounting!

 

[E. von Hoegh]

CLA = clean, lubricate, adjust. At one time a CLA was regular maintenance, performed at regular intervals to ensure the continued functioning of the camera. A working pro might have a camera given a CLA once a year, perhaps twice a year if in "severe service". These days, most cameras in the 40+ year old category need a complete overhaul, not a simple CLA.
In order:
The camera is opened, meaning the top and bottom covers are removed. any dirt or dust is removed, (keeping the film chamber clean is the responsibility of the user), any dry lubrication points are taken care of, and all functions are checked - rangefinder if an RF camera, meter if present, shutter speeds, mirror function if an SLR, and any other functions that particular camera may have. Adjustments are performed if through normal use and wear some of the function have drifted outside spec.

You lubricate what needs to be lubricated with the appropriate lubricant, you know what to use and where because you a) looked it up in the service manual, or b) have sufficient knowledge and experience to determine this without the service manual.

You adjust what your inspection and testing indicate in need need of adjustment, said specs to be found in the service info. If no service literature is available, you rely on what is known as "good practice" and experience.

A complete overhaul is a complete teardown, cleaning all traces of old lubricants, repair of any faults, repair/replace any worn parts, and reassembly/relubrication. Not for an amateur, a Nikon F2 has about 1500 parts. With modern lubricants, an overhaul will assure as-new function for 20 or more years under normal occasional use, that is assuming the camera is not used as a busy working pro would have used it in say 1980 and that reasonable care is taken to keep the camera clean and away from high temperatures.

 

[BrianShaw]

I've done "CLA/overhaul" on vintage cameras but for every one with which I have succeeded I seem to have converted my first attempt into a source of parts. If your okay with this possibility, it is a fulfilling endeavor.

I find it best to seek out factory repair manuals and read them carefully before starting a project. Not only does this help with process, order of operations, and recommended lubrication but it will also help you understand an special tools that may be required.

There are some repairs I will attempt and others that I won't That's true for cameras, watches, clocks, automobiles, household plumbing, household electricity, etc, etc, etc. Using one's good judgment is a good idea!

On any camera that I really desire/need to be reliable I use a qualified repair person. It is not "throwing money to someone else" but more like paying an expert to do perform their expertize.

 

[removed account4]

the only of my cameras i have CLA'd have been LF cameras and lenses
prontor press shutter ( mainly to get the TIP of my shutter release un jammed )
falling plate cameras small, landscape, and 4x5, plate cameras (box) MF box cameras too
( take front plate off, remove 100 year old lint from guillotine shutter mechanism, add clock oil )
speed graphic+ graflex slr ( tune FP shutter )
mini cameras with clockwork and modern shutters i bring to someone.
joe lippencott's book might be helpful
https://www.amazon.com/Repair-Class...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=0967207908

he's a nice guy, and if you ever go to the PHSNE photo shows you might meet him !

 

[nosmok]

I do the gross stuff myself-- banging rails back to "straight", fix bellows holes, etc. Getting more comfortable with other stuff but like jnanian above still generally send shutters out for adjustment. I have fixed 2 stuck rangefinder mechanisms myself, but the 1st one --an old Plaubel Makina IIs -- still has a major vertical misalignment that I'm scared to tackle. It works for now, though, and the rest of the camera is pretty funky too.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I did CLA for folders, some TLRs and some RF. I CLA'd Anniversary press camera. This is how I purchased them, "needed "CLA" condition. I'm not touching Leica and SLRs and buying them only working.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I buy them with the seller guarantying that they will take care of any repairs. Therefore I buy most of my equipment from KEH.com

 

[Michael Guzzi]

I dare not call my fixes a "CLA". But I've been able to fix all but a pretty banged up synchro-compur shutter, although most of the stuff wasn't too screwed up. My day job is tool and die making, so I'm quite used to work with tiny, almost vanishing tolerances and being extra careful and patient. Good tools are a must.

It's hard to thoroughly answer OP's questions, since each and every case is different and requires different tools/skills/resources. Also I didn't touch any of my Nikons, they all run great as it is. But I wouldn't venture deep inside them, I prize them too much for that. Saving for a proper CLA for my first F2 Photomic to bring it to 100%.

About calibrating the meters; it seems a rather simple task, provided no part need replacing/fixing, I'm mainly looking at the ring resistor. Just be methodical on the disassembly/reassembly and make notes about where everything goes.

Did I mention good tools are a must? I learned this the hard way stripping two screws on the bottom plate of my first film camera, an FE-2 in silver that jammed while trying to squeeze the proverbial 38th frame(cleared the jam winding the camera through the autowinder coupler on the bottom plate). Didn't know at the time what JIS screws were.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Yes and no to doing my own CLA.

For Leica M, Nikon F2, and Rolleiflex, there are well-known specialists who will do a far better job than I can because they've got years of expertise, the tools, manuals, lubricants, that I don't have.

I have the same philosophy for Minox (8x11mm subminiature) and leaf-shutter SLR's like the Bessamatic.

Other than that, I've been able to keep my cameras in good shape.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I will do some repairs on my 4"x5" Graflex Model D, but I sent it out to have a latch repaired by shutterfinger because that was beyond my abilities. He did a great repair at a very good price.

 

[dxqcanada]

I don't get "new" cameras ... just broken ones ... so I, CLARR - clean, lube, adjust, repair, and restore.

 

[Alan W]

I've ruined enough cameras and lenses to know that if something doesn't work it's time to send it out for repair by someone who knows what they're doing.I have,though,had certain repair people send me back the camera with the same problem unfixed.At that point I simply list it on ebay,describe the problem,and let someone else take care of it.

 

[Jeff Bradford]

When a camera needs real work, I send it to a real pro. I want it done right, I don't want to break it, and I want professional camera repair people to be in business when I need them. That means paying for their services when I need them.

 

[DWThomas]

I have done a CLA on my Argus C3 twice -- not bad since I bought it new about sixty years ago! I might be less quick to dive into some of my other gear.

 

[Arklatexian]

CLA = clean, lubricate, adjust. At one time a CLA was regular maintenance, performed at regular intervals to ensure the continued functioning of the camera. A working pro might have a camera given a CLA once a year, perhaps twice a year if in "severe service". These days, most cameras in the 40+ year old category need a complete overhaul, not a simple CLA.
In order:
The camera is opened, meaning the top and bottom covers are removed. any dirt or dust is removed, (keeping the film chamber clean is the responsibility of the user), any dry lubrication points are taken care of, and all functions are checked - rangefinder if an RF camera, meter if present, shutter speeds, mirror function if an SLR, and any other functions that particular camera may have. Adjustments are performed if through normal use and wear some of the function have drifted outside spec.

You lubricate what needs to be lubricated with the appropriate lubricant, you know what to use and where because you a) looked it up in the service manual, or b) have sufficient knowledge and experience to determine this without the service manual.

You adjust what your inspection and testing indicate in need need of adjustment, said specs to be found in the service info. If no service literature is available, you rely on what is known as "good practice" and experience.

A complete overhaul is a complete teardown, cleaning all traces of old lubricants, repair of any faults, repair/replace any worn parts, and reassembly/relubrication. Not for an amateur, a Nikon F2 has about 1500 parts. With modern lubricants, an overhaul will assure as-new function for 20 or more years under normal occasional use, that is assuming the camera is not used as a busy working pro would have used it in say 1980 and that reasonable care is taken to keep the camera clean and away from high temperatures.

If my memory is correct, what you described is what Leica once called a "Class A overhaul". Also what you described is far better than most CLAs. Some well known repair shops will not do CLAs but instead do overhauls only and will tell you that before accepting the camera to work on........Regards!

 

[Arbitrarium]

I'll strip and clean/fix/lube leaf shutter cameras and adjust rangefinders etc. but anything with a focal plane shutter or electronics, I leave alone.

 

[benjiboy]

I'm a photographer, not a camera technician if my equipment needs servicing I send it to a professional.

 

[pmargolis]

I think of CLAs and overhauls as sort of analogous to dental work: I'd rather have a highly-qualified expert do it.

 

[Ricklb]

I perform C&Ls on my Exakta Varex cameras using Miles Upton's Ultimate Exakta Repair. That much is easy. I have not moved into Adjustment just yet. I wanted to get some experience first.

 

[jim10219]

I've only paid for one professional CLA. The guy did a good job, but it cost me more than twice what I paid for the camera. I've done probably 20 CLA's myself. Some are more difficult than others, but it's not really as hard as some people make out. Just use a digital camera to document the tear down so you know where everything goes when you put it back together, and take lots of notes. There's lots of information on the internet for most cameras and shutters, so be sure to do your research beforehand, as it'll make the process easier. Just take your time, clear out all distractions so you can focus, and make sure you have a clean and well lit workspace. The hardest things I've had to deal with is finding replacement parts and knowing what to lubricate and how much and what kind of lubricant to use. Thanks to the internet, parts and info usually isn't too hard to come by.

However it's gonna take some time, patience, and dedication. If you aren't the kind of person who enjoys a challenge, it may be worth paying someone else to do it. But if you are, it can be highly rewarding, both personally and financially.

 

[summicron1]

I used to think I could do this, but now know it is simply silly to ponder anything more aggressive than a little leather conditioner on the bellows or coverings.

Mostly the cameras I use are Rolleis or Leicas and those are fine instruments which deserve only skilled hands touching them. The price can be high -- $180 to have DAG do a Leica CL -- but the results of holding a fine instrument restored by a fine technician are more than worth it.

 

[Bill Burk]

I have done a CLA on my Argus C3 twice -- not bad since I bought it new about sixty years ago! I might be less quick to dive into some of my other gear.

There's a camera I'm not worried about ruining. But I did have an Argus C4 that was hopeless.

 

[Bill Burk]

I am one who likes to fix things. So it takes great restraint for me to go to a specialist. Though I know I should. I tend to take things apart and try to get them working. Often I regret it. Most of the time I get it working. "Working" in a subjective fashion. For instance I tell myself "if the mirror goes up when you wind, shoot again and the next shot the mirror will stay down" (ES-II which has a worn mirror cam, designed with two points 180 degrees apart, so it makes one rotation per two shots).

 

[BrianVS]

I do- and to answer the OP's question: I use to tell people "If you are just going to throw it away, I'll give it my best stupid look, and try to fix it." Trial and error, back-up, retry till it works".

BUT NOW to quote my daughter and floating Mario Head- "I do an Internet".

Great online instructions sites like this one:

http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/

Had me taking apart a Kiev III, Contax III, Contax II, and even a IIIa for cleaning the VF/RF, fix the film counter, light leak, etc. The IIIa - got to a magic place that was documented somewhere on the Internet to hit the shutter release mechanism with a little bit of oil. Now it works. The IIIa with a 5cm F2.8 Tessar lens was $100 on Ebay. The meter even worked. Looks mint. Sold 'as-is', now it does.

Kodak Retina-

http://retinarescue.com/

Replaced the cocking Rack, I've done a lot of Retinas over the last 20 years- but would have missed the Gear Sync that Chris documents.

I have books on Nikon repair, but Richard's site is Awesome:

https://richardhaw.com/

And if you shoot Jupiters on a Leica or want to modify a CZJ Sonnar for use one one-

http://aperturepriority.co.nz/50mm-jupiter-3-f1-5-information/

My returning the favor to the Internet.