Do you always refocus?

[NedL]

This is probably a silly question.

I use an old Beseler 23c with a cold light. The focus does not slip and I rarely need to re-focus when working on a single negative, even if I make test strips and several prints over a long time, like an hour.

This past week I made a bunch of quick 5x7 prints from a roll of 35mm film. Each print was "full frame", fit the same way on the 5x7 paper: I did not change the enlarger height.

So... as I was printing, even from one day to the next, each time I put a new negative in the carrier it appeared to already be in focus. I always refocus, but I started to wonder if it was really necessary, and a couple times I wasn't sure I ended up critically better than where it started. For me, it seems like I can't be sure it is perfectly in focus until I've seen it ever so slightly out of focus in each direction. But now I'm wondering if I should trust my eyes more and if it looks sharp at the start not fuss with it.

As I mentioned, it seemed to me there were a couple times where that last teeny tiny nudge might not have gotten it quite as perfect as it was before I refocused. It makes me think if I've hit "critically sharp" once, it might be better to leave it alone for the next frame, unless it obviously needs to be focused again.

So... do you always refocus for each new frame, or do you sometimes leave it be??

 

[eddie]

I always refocus. Doesn't take much time, and you never know what the action of removing/reinserting the negative carrier will have. Even when I used the Beseler negatrans, I'd check.
Like you, I do the back and forth thing. Whether it ends up in the same spot, I'll never know.

 

[wiltw]

If you use a grain focuser, it is easy to examine the grain after insertion of a new neg, to see if it needs tweaking.

 

[ic-racer]

Zeroing in on the perfect focus should not be any big problem. What kind of grain magnifier are you using?

I will admit that on the 8x10 enlarger, I always check focus and buzz the focus buttons up and down 'just to see what happens' but the lens probably winds up back in the same place.

 

[NedL]

If you use a grain focuser, it is easy to examine the grain after insertion of a new neg, to see if it needs tweaking.

I've been doing just like Eddie said, for the same reasons. And he's right, it doesn't take too long.

Maybe I should get a better grain focuser ( I use a 10x magnasite ) but I don't trust myself to know that it is razor sharp until I've seen it "back and forth". There's always "could it be ever so slightly sharper..."

Mostly I was just curious if some people go through several prints without refocusing....

 

[AgX]

If one has a sturdy enlarger with dubble glass negative holder, I guess it would be good idea to check with a test negative for focus consistency after repeated replacing of that sample. If consistent, one then could forget about re-focusing.

 

[eddie]

Maybe I should get a better grain focuser ( I use a 10x magnasite )....

I use a Peak Model 1, and still do it the back-and-forth way.

 

[NedL]

I'm glad to find I'm not alone! It would be bad to learn that everyone in the world "sets and forgets" the focus and then just starts whipping out beautiful prints, while I'm carefully refocusing each time

 

[Ian Grant]

I always check the focus. Every so often I also make sure that the tensioning is correct so that the head doesn't slip or rise. Some Dursts use friction pads and if worn a head can rise very slowly up the column before you make the actual exposure orb in a run of prints from the same negative, I do the same for the lens focusing mechanism. Essentially I'm giving my enlargers a basis service.

Ian

 

[fotch]

Beseler makes a negative holder that allows you to move to the next frame. 35mm & 120 size. No need to refocus if making the same print size, just a quick magnifier check if needed. Never had a problem although I am usually making a lot of smaller prints.

 

[MattKing]

If I'm working over a long period of time, I'll check for dust on a regular basis. Each time I do, I check the focus.

 

[fotch]

 

[John Koehrer]

If the tension has loosened on the lens stage, it'll creep. Better safe etc.

 

[NedL]

Beseler makes a negative holder that allows you to move to the next frame. 35mm & 120 size. No need to refocus if making the same print size, just a quick magnifier check if needed. Never had a problem although I am usually making a lot of smaller prints.

That's pretty neat! That's the negatrans that Eddie referred to? I usually make smaller prints too... I can imagine using one of these, especially for the kind of printing I was doing this week. Wow, learn something new every day!

 

[eddie]

Yes, Ned. That's a negatrans. I had both the 120, and 35, for my 4x5 enlarger. They do make them for the 23C, too. They are expensive if bought new, but you can get them on ebay for $30-50. Nifty gadgets if you're printing more than one negative from the same strip.

 

[fotch]

I have used it and one of the specialty paper easels so I could print a whole roll of 2x3, 3.5x5 or 4x5, or 5x7. The easel moves the 8x10 paper underneath a frame mask.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I always recheck the focus. If the focus is very close every time, I will check with the grain analyzer first because if there is a change it will still be close to where the focus already is located.

 

[MattKrull]

When I was taking a darkroom class, I started out refocusing each time, but ended up just refocusing when I changed my frame. The Besseler 23c I used was a pain to focus (some play in bits that needed maintenance), but once focused was rock solid for the two hours of my class.

I made that mistake once at home. My Omega B-22 drifts out of focus in the time it takes to process a paper. I lost three sheets fo paper in my first attempt with the enlarger. So, refocus after each paper for me

 

[NedL]

When I was taking a darkroom class, I started out refocusing each time, but ended up just refocusing when I changed my frame. The Besseler 23c I used was a pain to focus (some play in bits that needed maintenance), but once focused was rock solid for the two hours of my class.

That describes mine pretty well. There is a tiny bit of play in the focus knob, but also I think when I "nudge it" it has a tendency to drop back to where it was, locked perfectly in focus. ( That could be my imagination... and I'm talking about something subtle here ). I think it would be easier to focus if the focus knob didn't have any play when you change directions. As far as focusing goes, by far my biggest leap forward was to purchase a pair of reading glasses to wear while looking through the grain magnifier. Ever since then focusing has been a lot easier!

Anyway, it sure seems to be rock solid once it is focused, and like Sirius said, I start with the grain magnifier when I change frames because it's going to be extremely close if not already perfect.. which is what started me wondering about how others work in the first place!!

 

[MattKrull]

As far as focusing goes, by far my biggest leap forward was to purchase a pair of reading glasses to wear while looking through the grain magnifier. Ever since then focusing has been a lot easier!

In the class I used a couple of different grain focusers. I found the patterson too small for my eyesight, but another fancy $200 one worked very very well (go figure). When I set up my own dark room I purchased a used magna-sight. I thought "Hey, giant eye piece, it'll be great!" turns out the magnification isn't big enough for grain (8x I think), just overall image sharpness. I much preferred the grain focusers (25x I think) which would let me focus no matter what. Now, if I don't have a strong edge in the middle of the image, it is much harder to focus.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

For me, it's a habit. I don't know if it's a good or bad one. Most of the time the print is in focus printing the same height. It's probably like looking both ways before crossing a 2-way street. Most of the time it's not necessary, but once in a while, it's a good thing.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I always refocusjust to be ssurebut it may not always be necessary.

 

[NedL]

I always refocus just to be sure but it may not always be necessary.

Thanks Ralph, and this seems to be common answer. I will keep the habit too. I'm in good company!

 

[nworth]

I have the same enlarger as the poster, and the same experience. I seldom have to refocus, but I always check the focus and usually try to refocus (even thought there is no net change). Sometimes things happen.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Get a decent glass carrier and you don't have to worry about this nonsense. If your negs are popping or curling en route, it just shows you have no guarantee of ever being consistently in focus.