Do I want an F100? And WTB if so...

[bvy]

What's missing from my arsenal is a capable auto-focus 35mm film camera that has a hot shoe and takes interchangeable lenses. I have a few AF compacts that do a respectable job (like the Yashica T5), but now I want to go portrait length and wire up some strobes for faster paced studio work (and photographing little ones who don't sit still). I want a long but not too long portrait lens -- maybe a 105mm prime. I don't know yet if a zoom lens in the studio is a good idea.

I've looked around quite a bit, and the Nikon F100 seems not only ubiquitous and well regarded, but also reasonably priced. As film shooting goes, this is new territory for me. Previously for this kind of shooting, I used a DSLR. Upgrading to a better DSLR was another consideration except that I want to print this work (and not with a printer).

So I'm looking to buy, unless someone sees a flaw in my plan or could point me to something more suitable. Thanks!

 

[George Mann]

I personally chose an F90x over the F100.

 

[avb]

I looked at your flickr and you're a great photographer! I think you would do well with whatever you choose. But studio for you? Your work looks more suited for outdoor/available light, I think? Maybe just get an F100 + 85mm f/1.8D for now?
Oh, and I used to own an F100 and it is awesome. I have an F5 now. Also awesome.
I wouldn't get an F90X or F4 (one focus point), F55 or F60 or F65 or F75 or F80 (cheaper feel), or F6 ($$).

 

[benveniste]

The F100 is a very capable camera if you don't need a professional "system" camera. "In the day" I dithered over paying extra for one over an N/F90, finally chose the F100 and have never regretted it. Do you already own Nikon mount lenses, and if so which ones?

 

[jwd722]

Many years ago I saved my nickels and pennies until I could afford a new F100. Still have it, still use it, still love it. My "portrait" lense of choice is a well used but fantastic Tamron 90mm f 2.5, upgrade to the newer autofocus f2.8 and you can't go wrong in my opinion.

 

[jimjm]

I'll add another recommendation for the F100. Reasonably lightweight but a heck of a lot of capability. I've used mine for sports photography (cycling) and the AF system is more than good enough. Another plus is that it's compatible with the VR lenses. If you're coming from Nikon DSLR's, the controls and layout will feel similar. I've used mine with a power pack and strobes in the studio, but Nikon's wireless TTL flash capability with the SU-4 wireless controller and compatible speedlights is also pretty neat.

For studio situations, a zoom might be overkill. To get the range you need for portraits, in an AF lens you'd have to go with something like 35-105, or 80-200. For fixed-length lenses some options are the 85mm 1.4 or 1.8, 105/2 DC (outstanding) and the 135/2 DC.

 

[film_man]

What's missing from my arsenal is a capable auto-focus 35mm film camera that has a hot shoe and takes interchangeable lenses. I have a few AF compacts that do a respectable job (like the Yashica T5), but now I want to go portrait length and wire up some strobes for faster paced studio work (and photographing little ones who don't sit still). I want a long but not too long portrait lens -- maybe a 105mm prime. I don't know yet if a zoom lens in the studio is a good idea.

I've looked around quite a bit, and the Nikon F100 seems not only ubiquitous and well regarded, but also reasonably priced. As film shooting goes, this is new territory for me. Previously for this kind of shooting, I used a DSLR. Upgrading to a better DSLR was another consideration except that I want to print this work (and not with a printer).

So I'm looking to buy, unless someone sees a flaw in my plan or could point me to something more suitable. Thanks!

First things first, do you already have a dSLR? As such if you have a bunch of lenses and want to keep using them then look at that brand.

The F100 is a great camera. Cheap, solid, nice viewfinder and very easy to operate and similar to a dSLR in feel and layout. Plus it will use any of the modern Nikon lenses without any issues. So yeah, F100 and, depending on your budget, anything like a 85/1.4, 85/1.8, 105/2 and so on. Really can't go wrong with a F100 and if you don't like it you can sell it on ebay for what you got it for.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There is no flaw in your plan. Add a 28mm to 300mm AF zoom lens and a Nikon SB800 strobe and you will be good to go!

 

[bdial]

I've been using mine for some studio work lately with a pocket wizard and a mono light and softbox, so far it's working out nicely. No TTL for that, but I have a flash meter.
I like the speed of the autofocus compared to my older Nikon AF bodies.

 

[zanxion72]

Also, make sure you get one with a squared tipped rewind fork (highest serial numbers) and a non sticky back.
After the F6 it is the best and most handsome modern SLR ever made.

 

[bvy]

I looked at your flickr and you're a great photographer! I think you would do well with whatever you choose. But studio for you?

Thank you! Yes, I do it all -- or at least I aspire to. You can see some of my 8x10 instant photos there. It's usually during those large format sittings where I'd like to do some more casual shooting afterwards since I already have the lights and everything set up...

Do you already own Nikon mount lenses, and if so which ones?

First things first, do you already have a dSLR? As such if you have a bunch of lenses and want to keep using them then look at that brand.

I have a Pentax K-1000 (film) and an Olympus E-520 (digital) but I only have a few kit lenses with each, so there's no great investment in glass that I could expand on. As such, I'm pretty much sold, so I guess I'm looking for one now...

 

[Paul Howell]

I would give some thought to a Minolta 7 or Canon EOS 1N, the advantage of the Canon is the lens system, no need to think about D Vs G, with very few expectations all EOS lens will work will work with all EOS bodies. The Minolta 7 will work with all full frame A mount, Minolta, Konica Minolta, Sony and Zeiss. Pentax and Nikon have the option of working with older manual focus lens as well.

 

[Huss]

There is a really nice F100 for sale on fredmiranda.com for I think $180.
No affiliation, passing it on. I love mine.

 

[emacs]

If you wanted to share lenses with your K1000, the Pentax MZ-S is a pretty great camera. But if you've only got a couple K-mount lenses and don't mind switching to another system, the F100 is a great choice. The Minolta a7's also a good suggestion, and a Canon EOS 3 or Elan 7-series might be worth a look, too. Really, you can't go wrong with any of those choices.

 

[darkroommike]

Do you currently have other Nikons? You could consider other brands if you do not. I am not a fan of many of the later Nikon cameras, many of the consumer cameras use a plastic back latch that frequently breaks and the fix is to break off the rest of the latch and super glue a replacement metal latch in place. Boo on Nikon! With the price of an F4, etc. I don't know if I'd buy a F100. I have two 8008s models, AF is super slow, but focus confirmation works well, TTL flash, motor advance, motor rewind and about $20 bucks per camera.

 

[George Mann]

I have two 8008s models, AF is super slow, but focus confirmation works well, TTL flash, motor advance, motor rewind and about $20 bucks per camera.

I used to have one of those. My F90x blows it away!

 

[filmamigo]

Do you want an F100?

That's a definite yes. To me, the F100 is the best 35mm AF SLR made. It's built like a tank, but not oversized or overweight. The only reason I didn't keep mine was a substantial investment in Pentax glass. Sometimes I think I could reduce all of my photographic gear to an F100 and a small set of "D" lenses. For your purposes, pick up an 85mm f/1.8 D and a 50mm f/1.8 D and start shooting!

 

[RichardJack]

My two cents...
As long as don't mind a heavy body the F100 will do everything you want, never let you down, and won't break the bank. However...Nikon is coming out with some pretty nice glass that are sharper than the older lenses (but expensive). I have no idea of how serious you are but if you think you might miss out on being able to use a 20mm f1.8, 24mm f1.4, or 105mm f1.4 maybe you should consider a F6 (or D810).

 

[Huss]

Do you want an F100?

That's a definite yes. To me, the F100 is the best 35mm AF SLR made. It's built like a tank, but not oversized or overweight.

Tanks don't have plastic doors.

(I love my F100!)

 

[fstop]

Tanks don't have plastic doors.

Depends on what army...

Buy what you want.

 

[ron917]

I have no idea of how serious you are but if you think you might miss out on being able to use a 20mm f1.8, 24mm f1.4, or 105mm f1.4 maybe you should consider a F6 (or D810).

The new 105mm f1.4 is an E lens (not to be confused with the old Series E lenses). The E stands for electromagnetic aperture - there is no aperture lever. There is no film camera that fully works with the E lenses, not even the F6. You can use them, but only at wide open aperture.

The other two (20 1.8 and 24 1.4) are G lenses, they will work perfectly on the F100.

 

[ac12]

First you need to define what YOU mean by portrait.
That is a very commonly confused word. Because below is a list of what I consider and see as portrait, each with a different lens requirement from a wide angle to a mid tele. Lens focal length is also affected by camera to subject distance. Example, you won't need a wide angle lens if you can back up enough to use a normal or short tele lens, for a large family group shot. But you also would not want to shove a 50mm lens almost into someones face for a tight face shot.

• Group, as in a family of 4-8 people
  
• Couple, standing, full length
  
• Couple, seated, full length
  
• Couple, waist up
• Couple, had and shoulder
  
• Individual, 3/4 (includes leg but not feet)
  
• Individual, waist up
• Individual, head and shoulder
• Individual, head
• Individual, face

Children are smaller than adults, so you can use a longer lens for the same portrait of an adult.

For casual use a 35-105 is not a bad lens, and I have one. BUT the Nikon 35-105 is a variable aperture lens. That is not something you want for studio flash work where you set the lens aperture manually.
You really want a FIXED aperture lens for studio flash work, so you know what aperture you are setting the lens to. Although some will say that a half stop off will be taken care of by the exposure latitude of the film.

Alternatively, 35 + 50 + 85 + 105/135 might be a good prime lens kit.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Tanks don't have plastic doors.

(I love my F100!)

I do not slam camera doors. I treat them with care regardless of the type of camera. Maybe that is why you had problems with the F100 doors.

 

[Huss]

I do not slam camera doors. I treat them with care regardless of the type of camera. Maybe that is why you had problems with the F100 doors.

You should try it, it's fun! I like doing it as it shows those around me I am a serious photographer that should not be trifled with. I used to take a running start at it but that got inconvenient as it meant I had to have a volunteer from the audience hold the camera for me.

 

[bvy]

Hmmm... There's an F80 with extras in the classifieds...