Are you using a replacement for the Kodalk (I think that's a rhetorical question)? Anyway, would you be so kind as to provide a recipe for what you did mix up? It sounds interesting.
Kodak DK50 is derived from the much earlier Wellington MQ Borax formula, there was probably a D50 with Borax instead of Metaborate
Wellington MQ Borax
Metol 2g
Hydroquinone 2g
Sodium Sulphite 10g
Borax 20g
Water to 1 litre
Through a few step changes which include a Borax version of DK60 this eventually evolved to D76.
Ian
I wonder how it would work w/ smaller formats like 35mm? It's funny, I read a lot about having to use the DK 50 diluted to get the fine grain and acutance, but it would appear that's not necessarily so from what you got. Well, you read a lot on the internet. I heard similar things about Mic-X at full strength. Mush grain they said. My results (I'm sure all this depends a lot on how you develop it, agitation protocol, what film is used etc, so there is no standard) gave me essentially grainless negs w/ 120. Perhaps not the sharpest, that's hard to judge once its printed since different papers may do different things, but excellent if you had a lot of sky in a shot. Sounds like DK 50 would be good for sky shots too.
Sorry---My impression was that you weren't using the standard recipe, but were using a substitute for the alkali.Standard DK-50 recipe as found "everywhere."
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Sorry---My impression was that you weren't using the standard recipe, but were using a substitute for the alkali.
@jnanian: Thanks, I've read your comments on DK-50 in other threads. I have zero interest in using it in those scenarios. One shot, or a few shots, max!
good luck with that, from what i have been told by
very competitant photographers, much more competitant
and knowledgeable than i, untamed the developer is kind of ... contrasty
First, you describe a process using it at full strength. I have only found a few development times and they are all at 1:1 dilution.
Second, I believe in empirical results, not what people say. As I've spent decades in photo magazines, books, and now forums, I've come to realize that huge amounts of common knowledge is just mythology perpetuated. Even a lot of developer formulas have never been tested! Just someone making something up, and when I look at some of these weighed against my 25 years as an amateur photochemist I know that they are way wide of whatever marks they claim to hit.
I've gotten the results I want, or almost so, first time out of the chute.
@jnanian: OK, all is well. I did take it as a "can't do that" message. Yes, tank developing is a whole different breed of chemistry, and yes, most labs kept some of the old when adding new. I think part of the reason was starting with a higher bromide level, but I'm sure there was more to it than that.
Thanks, nworth. My original query was...
A clarification needed, please. You wrote (quote) "Replace sodium metaborate with carbonate - bicarbonate buffer (40 g sodium carbonate, 10 g sodium bicarbonate). By this do you mean, with carbonate AND bicarbonate buffer, or with carbonate OR bicarbonate buffer? I am no chemist, but I wonder what would happen if I use the two in the one mix, instead of one or the other.
So is it AND or OR? Important, I think. It's the keypoint to my next time experiments with DK50. Already have the developer, several packets of it in fact.
Verichrome was good stuff. Does anyone remember Versapan? Was I the only one using it? I shot weddings with it in the early 60s, a time when people were happy with B&W albums, before Kodacolor wedding shoots became the norm in my REA of rural eastern Canada. Beautiful tones. Ansco (aka GAF) and DuPont made gorgeous films back then. Ditto Panatomic from Kodak. Tmax 100 is as good if not better, in grain terms, but doesn't quite get the tonality I got with Panatomic and Agfa Rodinal Special, til both were sadly disconnected.
Lots of great information coming out of this thread, long may it run. Thanks, everyone!
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