DIY RB67 CLA?

[chassis]

Has anyone done a DIY CLA on an RB67 Pro S body? With the manuals available online, one would need the tools and in principal this would be possible.

My Pro S body has the hanging kicker arm situation that is common. Sometimes the mirror doesn't raise fully, and I think this is related to the kicker arm situation. Something is rubbing, sticking or needs cleaning and lubricating. Or all of the above.

1. Has anyone attempted this?
2. Where would one find the tools needed? Adjustable spanner wrench, thin pliers, fine screwdrivers, etc.

FWIW I am pretty mechanically inclined and comfortable doing such work given instructions and tools.

 

[flavio81]

What is the kicker arm?!

I've successfully repaired a RB67 pro-S. It is an easy to dissasemble camera. Light seals are another matter, though; there are many.

 

[John Koehrer]

I think that if they don't have it you most likely don't need it.

Dead Link Removed

 

[chassis]

John, thanks. Looks like the necessary tools could cost the same as a CLA! I was not aware of Micro Tools, thanks for the reference.

Flavio, the correct name is "coupling arm". Look at Section 9, page 26, figures 64 and 65. These figures show the relationship between the mirror raising and film winding function. The coupling arms on my body are sticking out after firing. Also, the light baffle sometimes doesn't raise fully.

http://rb67.helluin.org/files/2010/02/Mamiya-RB67-Pro-S-Repair-Manual.pdf

On this YouTube video a gentleman shows in general how this can be fixed. It doesn't show every step of the process, unfortunately.

 

[flavio81]

Hi chassis,
If you're referring to the two protruding things on the camera rear that "kick" the film back so it knows a frame has been exposed, these will free after a regular clean and lubrication. After removing side panels they will be exposed.

As for the tools, mostly you'll only need #00 and #0 philips screwdrivers (and a bit bigger) and perhaps 1.0mm flat screwdrivers. Some general purpose tweezers as well, but nothing special.

Removing the side panels is very easy. All screws are under the leatherette. The bottom panel is even easier but you'll need a bigger screwdriver.

 

[shutterfinger]

For screwdrivers, this Stanley set should be all you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-0...7557886&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelers+screwdrivers
Xcelite sub miniature needle nose pliers are very handy for camera repair.
https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-L4G-...&sr=8-7&keywords=miniature+needle+nose+pliers

Micro Tools is over priced IMO. Other sites selling hobby hand tools
http://www.micromark.com/
https://www.widgetsupply.com/category/dremel-router-bit.html

 

[chassis]

flavio, thanks, this is exactly the situation. It is easy to peel the leatherette to access the screws? How do I reattach the leatherette? I would like to do a job that looks good when it is finished.

shutterfinger, thanks.

What type of lubricant is used for these cameras? General "3 in 1" oil? Or something specific?

 

[flavio81]

flavio, thanks, this is exactly the situation. It is easy to peel the leatherette to access the screws? How do I reattach the leatherette? I would like to do a job that looks good when it is finished.

shutterfinger, thanks.

What type of lubricant is used for these cameras? General "3 in 1" oil? Or something specific?

Easy to peel. Reglue using rubber cement.

For lubricantion it depends on the speed and load of the bearing. Low speed and/or heavy load requires high viscosity, high speed requires and/or light load requires low viscosity. Really high speed mechanism, like leaf shutters, often are intended to have close to zero (or zero) lubricants.

Depending on above, I usually apply grease or electric motor oil (sae 20? can't remember). 3-in-1 is not recommended.

 

[shutterfinger]

For oil TriFlow https://www.amazon.com/SUPERIOR-LUB...=1487562725&sr=8-4&keywords=triflow+lubricant , clock oil, or similar light weight machine oil. Apply a trace amount by wetting a felt pad with the oil, touch the part to the pad, wipe off the excess leaving a sheen.
For grease I've switched from white lithium to Finish Line teflon grease https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-...562988&sr=8-5&keywords=bike+grease&th=1&psc=1
a dab about the size of a small straight pin head or less in sufficient.

3in1 oil dries out in a few months and leaves a sticky residue behind that builds up.
Water Disperant #40 (WD40) does the same. Some use it as a cleaner but wipe it off completely when finished.
Neither are good for camera lubrication.

 

[chassis]

flavio and shutterfinger thanks again for all of your help. I remain a bit nervous about peeling back the leatherette. The camera at the moment is in good cosmetic condition and I would like to keep it that way.

flavio, what tool do I use to start peeling the leatherette? A pin or a knife, or something else?

 

[holggger]

I was taking a RB67 apart last weekend for the first time. To peel away the leatherette I used a knife first carefully to get under the edge, then used tweezers (the small kind some people use to pluck their eyebrows) to peel. You might have to carefully do what you would do to pancakes that got stuck in the frypan to not tear the leatherette. Was able to get it off easily and beautifully.

If it's stuck really hard it might be smarter to use something that dissolves the glue or makes it softer – but I have no experience with that so someone else might know more.

 

[chassis]

Thanks holggger.