DIY ECN-2, looking for Kodak Anti-Calcium #4 replacement

Rudeofus

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In the ECN world, film would be typically stored under strictly controlled atmospheric conditions, therefore not all movie film stock needs a biocide. This is likely the reason, which the biocide is optional in ECN-2, but mandatory in C-41/E-6 processing.

Either way, all those folks here, who won't store their film in a humidity controlled room (guilty as charged, your honor), will have to use a biocide (the extra option in H2407).
 

koraks

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In the ECN world, film would be typically stored under strictly controlled atmospheric conditions

Furthermore, I doubt the archival properties of ECN2 films are all that relevant anymore to the cine industry. They scan and from there digitally archive. I wonder if the camera film is even kept around for all productions.
 
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BHuij

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Formalin arrived today. Taking sensible precautions I was able to mix up 4.5ml of it with 450ml of water and 2.25ml of PhotoFlo 200, without fogging my corneas. I threw a sheet of fresh 4x5 Ektachrome that I exposed and developed about a week ago in the tray for a couple of minutes with this stabilizer and hung it to dry. So far the dyes still look great, and no microorganisms have eaten the gelatin I'll try to remember to come back here in 20 years and report on the stability of this chrome again
 
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BHuij

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As kind of a "final report" here, I'm getting excellent results that I'm very happy with developing ECN-2 films. I'm getting acceptable results developing C-41 films, but I suspect I can upgrade that to "excellent" with a little more experimentation, now that I know CD-3 is significantly less active than CD-4. And the biggest surprise is that I was able to get far better results than I expected with E6 films. Some HC-110, light fogging, and then ECN-2 chemistry is producing really, really nice slides. And yes, I'm stabilizing with formalin at the end now
 
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BHuij

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Low-CRI and rather blueish light source from the tracing tablet, and iPhone auto white balance not doing me any favors there. The thin area of that sheet looks much more neutral in person. It does have a slight yellow cast. Hard to say whether that's simply because I shot these frames with an 81A filter, or because there's something wrong with my process or chemistry. *shrug* easy enough to correct in post. I'll worry about getting it perfect when Ilford announces that they're bringing back Cibachrome
 

abddba

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kodak Anti-Calcium #4 柯达 钙剂# 4 is dapta CAS:106362-34-9​

1 3 二氨基乙羟基丙级四乙酸
 
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BHuij

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Great info - luckily I'm unconcerned about the Fenton reaction, since I'm mixing up from dry immediately prior to use, and using one-shot. Shelf life means nothing to me now

So far I haven't had any trouble getting clean negs free of hard water stains, so I probably don't need to worry about getting my hands on any anti calcium agents.
 

Rudeofus

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kodak Anti-Calcium #4 柯达 钙剂# 4 is dapta CAS:106362-34-9​

1 3 二氨基乙羟基丙级四乙酸
View attachment 377363

It appears, that you mixed up quite a few things here:

CAS 106362-34-9 is some weird peptide compound with no (known to me) application in photo chemistry.

The compound you have in that graphic is 1,3-Diamino-2-Hydroxypropane-N,N,N',N'-Tetraacetic Acid, which is a sequestering agent, but most likely not Kodak's Anticalcium #4.

I have already mentioned the true structure of Kodak's Anticalcium #4 in the posting you referenced.
 

abddba

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3148-72-9
 
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