DIY Darkroom Sink Plans?

NortheastPhotographic

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I have a small Kreonite sink at the moment, and it's great! But it will really only accommodate 3 11x14 trays, even then a tight fit. I'd like to expand my tray capability with a 5' sink that will sit next to my Kreonite and run along the corner of the room. This sink does not need plumbing save the drain as my Kreonite has a hose system and a Thermostatic mixer built in.

Does anyone have plans that a relative amateur could handle? I have a good screw gun plus impact driver, and access to a Miter Saw. I have built a few fairly primitive things like a wood shed, compost bin, that kind of thing.

It looks like the offerings from Delta aren not so bad until you add the supports, then you're near $1k. I'd like to keep my costs down.

Thanks!
 

removed account4

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The best sink I ever had the privilege to use was made of plywood. It leaked during the time I used it and was fixed and maintained using fiberglass resin. I have a weird plastic sink currently and often think of making a sink like the one I used to use. Probably easy to make... big sheets of wood. Fiberglass and resin the seams - corners and a healthy coat on the bottom and sides...
The fiberglass stuff is pretty inexpensive .. haven’t priced thick plywood (marine or other types ) in ages. Have fun!
John
 

Ben 4

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I can highly recommend a book: Build Your Own Home Darkroom, which has a chapter on sinks. You should be able to find it used. I had almost no woodworking experience when I built my sink and enlarger table almost 15 years ago. It would not have been possible without this book, which assumes no prior knowledge or experience and walks you through everything you need to consider.

--Ben
 

David Brown

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Paul Howell

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There are number of books as mentioned by Ben 4, also old issues of Popular and Modern photo had articles with plans, just a matter of searching. Last time I had a sink was in the 70s, the one tool that really helped was a router (sp?) having solid joints is key.
 

Arklatexian

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The very best book on building a darkroom (including a sink that is big enough for whatever size print trays that you are going to, or might be going to use.) that I have ever seen is the "New Darkroom Handbook" by Joe Maio, etc. The first one I used was in our Parish/County library. I kept checking it out so often, I bought me a copy. The "New" edition should be even better. There are "cut-outs" of different size trays showing how much space they will take up in your sink, so you can build the sink to accommodate them. All of this plus construction details on constructing the sink and please use fiberglass inside the sink, you won't regret it. Also look at plastic tiles that allow water to flow through and under to use instead of a wooden-rack in the bottom of your sink.......Regards!
 

mgb74

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If you are anywhere near the coast, it should not be a problem finding some to fiberglass a wooden sink.
 

bambiwallace

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i used the "build your home darkroom" book as well having no prior woodworking experience. because i didn't know what i was doing it has screws about every three inches so it is solid; i even bathed in it when the bathroom was being renovated. i couldn't deal with using fiberglass in the house so i used a 2 part epoxy boat paint which is also smelly but not as bad as the fiberglass. after about 15 years i did have to retouch the paint but that was only because i put the drain in wrong and had way too much standing water. i also made the thing that the trays sit on in the sink. super easy. the only problem now is i am in a different darkroom and the sink i made will have to be cut up to remove it from the room because it's 4x13 feet. i wish i could give it to someone. good luck. it's totally worth it.

NortheastPhotographic said:
I just ordered that book! Thank you so much.
Click to expand...
 

awty

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Mine is made with form/marine ply 1800mm x 1200mm x 20mm. Made a trough at the rear just by stepping a 100mm piece, all has slight fall to a 50mm plug and waste, added strips and painted it with water proofing paint. Been using for a couple of years now without any leaks. Repainted the trough after spilling some corrosive chemistry. Its 600mm deep and 1800mm wide, its supported either end and does need any legs in between so have good storage space.

 
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markbau

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100% agree. I’ve built about 5 of the projects in that book and they have all been superb. My masterpiece was the darkroom table/mounting bench. It was so easy to make and is the most solid, stable table ever!
Behind the table is the fibre paper drying rack I also built from plans in the book.
 

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RalphLambrecht

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don't discard the Delta sinks on price;They are great and very durable; also easy to keep clean; get the black not the white sinks.
 

Nokton48

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Thanks!

Eagle Drain Tubs by Nokton48, on Flickr

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...-barrel/spill-containment/2-drum-budget-basin

Today a couple of these Eagle "Drum Spill Containment Basins" arrived. It took a couple of months to receive them. I believe they are 3D printed.
I will build tables to hold them, and add drains, and plumb them to drain the water. This one will contain 25 gallons. One will hold my 16x20 Calumet Print Washer, and the other will become a low sink.

Not bad for $63 each.
 
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NortheastPhotographic

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Love seeing all the pictures of your darkrooms! I am getting more confident that I can do this all myself. Just gonna take some elbow grease.
 

Fujicaman1957

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I built mine out of 3/4 plywood, 1"X 4" high grade planks(to get square-not rounded edges), stainless steel screws and glue to hold the planks to the plywood. When I had the basic sink done, I gave it 3 coats of Rustolem truck bed liner paint. The base is made of 2 cutdown "boarding buggies" from a sock mill welded end to end.
I think all told I spent $200 for a 2' by 8" sink.
 

jeffreyg

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Mine has been in use for forty-six years without problems. A few tips: tilt it down slightly towards the drain, place the faucets on the opposite (lengthwise) side of the drain, make it ten inches deep to avoid accidental splashes getting out, marine plywood is best, fiberglass cloth the seams, boat resin (color can be added), PVC pipes, have all the walls the same height with a separate backsplash, make removable panels that can rest on the front and back walls as these can provide extra counter space when it is not used as a sink and mount it so when the top panels are on it is a comfortable working height and adjustable storage shelves underneath. It's best to have an exhaust fan in the back so fumes are drawn away from you..

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/
 

Luckless

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One point to consider when picking materials is that "Marine Grade" plywood isn't really based on it being waterproof, but rather the quality and consistency of its layers.

If you're building a boat you want to spend the extra on higher quality marine grade materials because they have a known and reliable consistency and structural properties that you can trust will stand up to the loading and forces encountered by a boat interacting with waves. Cheaper and rougher stuff, such as used for sheathing homes or subfloors, allows for far lower quality in its layers and may include voids and patches. While a potential for critical failure where used under stress in something like a boat, such voids are unlikely to have much of an impact on the side of a house or in something like a relatively light duty sink or counter top.

So for a sink, going with marine grade may be 'a tad overkill', or you're getting up to some impressive feats of equipment abuse in your darkroom...

If you don't properly seal them, then marine grade isn't going to do much better than far cheaper construction grade ply that can be found at less than half the price. [Or less than a quarter the price for marine grade if you're in a very unlucky market] So you are probably better off saving money on the cheaper substructure and spending more on sealing everything up.

You don't want the wood itself to be touching anything wet, you want it to support the waterproof container...
 

awty

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I used Formply (is used for making concrete forms/molds to support wet concrete) for its strength and that its smooth and painted both sides, that way I didnt need to uses any legs or braces underneath for extra support. Marine grade is "overkill", but nonstructural ply will need more bracing and may not be perfectly flat.
 
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NortheastPhotographic

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Day one of the sink project! Chiseling out around the drain is a bit tedious but this is otherwise very easy. Home Depot cut up the board.

 
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NortheastPhotographic

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Taking shape a bit. There are some larger gaps at the corners than I hoped to see. I guess I will use caulk to seal them up as best I can after I finish putting on the epoxy paint coats.
 

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