DIY 6X16 - 1mm thick Aluminum has been laser cut - How to adhesive walls ?

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

Hello there, I want to adhesive 90 degrees walls together ? What do you advise ? Is metacrylate fit to the purpose or epoxy is needed. And I want to paint black inside with few black graphic marker pens.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Given those two choices, I'd use epoxy.

 

[bernard_L]

Given those two choices, I'd use epoxy.

Seconded. Even so, I feel there is not enough contact area between two plates at 90° for a reliable glue bond. I would add a corner reinforcement in the form of a small square bar or L-profile. And make sure you dull the parts to be glued with medium grade abrasive paper; and de-grease thoroughly.

And I want to paint black inside with few black graphic marker pens.

Sharpie will not give an opaque black on metal. Use a spray can of matte black paint. Two or three light coats; never reach the point where the liquid paint starts to accumulate; just enough for the droplets to merge.

 

[250swb]

I would use hot glue as it will form a bead around the inside edges to reinforce the join. Epoxy will shear at some point. And I concur black magic markers are not truly opaque and the silver surface of the aluminium will show through especially in long exposures. What's wrong with a rattle can of auto matt black? But unless you are using aluminium for a particular reason I'd have used 5mm black Perspex and glue made to bond Perspex, but you'd still need to paint the inside.

 

[Rick A]

How can someone design something without a clear understanding of what it really takes to fabricate it. You should have the lens and shutter on hand to know dimensions and a firm grasp of assembly methods and materials to see it to fruition. You might as well just duct tape the thing together (it works for cardboard pinhole cameras).

 

[Dan Fromm]

How can someone design something without a clear understanding of what it really takes to fabricate it. You should have the lens and shutter on hand to know dimensions and a firm grasp of assembly methods and materials to see it to fruition. You might as well just duct tape the thing together (it works for cardboard pinhole cameras).

If I give the obvious answer I'll be banned, so I'll ask the obvious question instead. Why not prototype with cardboard or foamcore first?

 

[Rick A]

If I give the obvious answer I'll be banned, so I'll ask the obvious question instead. Why not prototype with cardboard or foamcore first?

I asked that same question elsewhere. My one word response to this thread would definitely have me banned.

 

[BrianShaw]

If I give the obvious answer I'll be banned, so I'll ask the obvious question instead. Why not prototype with cardboard or foamcore first?

For me, that approach would be the final article given the desirements.

 

[BrianShaw]

I asked that same question elsewhere. My one word response to this thread would definitely have me banned.

I don’t know why you guys fear being banned for being honest. The answer is, “short of a miracle, this approach to building a camera is nearly impossible; exceedingly difficult at best.” I don’t fear being banned, but if I’m not posting in the future… you guys have better judgment than I seem to have at the moment. And to add to the ban risk… not intended to be a religious statement but some may read it that way… miracles actually do happen occasionally.

bye, perhaps and maybe.

 

[BrianShaw]

… and just to finish my role in the discussion… my biggest concern is the choice of lens, for which no design alternatives are being considered. No matter how much design flip-flopping goes on during this discovery phase, and assuming that fabrication actually comes to a reasonable fruition, it seems coverage ultimately will be the downfall of the entire project. It’s a pity because, aside the obvious, it sounds like a fun project.

 

[rmazzullo]

How can someone design something without a clear understanding of what it really takes to fabricate it. You should have the lens and shutter on hand to know dimensions and a firm grasp of assembly methods and materials to see it to fruition. You might as well just duct tape the thing together (it works for cardboard pinhole cameras).

That's why I bought your lens! The machine shop I have.

Bob M.

 

[BrianShaw]

That's why I bought your lens! The machine shop I have.

Bob M.

So what lens are you using for your 6x17 camera?

 

[rmazzullo]

So what lens are you using for your 6x17 camera?

A 210mm 5.6, but I do not expect to get the full 6x17 frame.

 

[Don_ih]

How can someone design something without a clear understanding of what it really takes to fabricate it.

I agree. This should have been designed to be assembled with screws into a brass or aluminum framework, if the aluminum is not thick enough to edge screw.

It's possible to weld aluminum. Maybe look into that and then caulk interior corners with black silicone - after spraying the interior surface black.

 

[BrianShaw]

Personally speaking, I'd make it thicker and include rabbet joints, or the like.

Or a skeleton/exoskeleton frame.

Or a different material, like baltic birch plywood.

There are many ways that are more effective than trying to marry thin aluminum sheet parts.

 

[Don_ih]

Another option is fabricating outside full-length corner cleats that you can screw or rivet to the sides.

 

[AnselMortensen]

I think it's worth pointing out that the OP is in Istanbul.
We do not know what resources are available to him.
There might not be a Home Depot down the street.

 

[grain elevator]

No need for the thinly veiled insults. Not everyone is engineering-minded or particularly perfectionist about the results of such a project.
@OP, I'd use tape (black, several layers if you want to try with film at that stage) first, to see if everything fits and works to your expectations. If/when it does and you want to make it permanent, epoxy should work, but only together with L-profiles as has been mentioned, or reinforced with strips of fibreglass or similar fabric. Of course this would go inside; it won't be pretty and typical epoxy isn't very UV resistant.

 

[bernard_L]

For such a fun project I would use black expanded PVC. Easily cut DIY with a circular saw (fine-toothed blade) and a clamped-down mason's ruler as a guide. . Easily glued with specific PVC glue. Mistakes not very costly.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Boatbuilders often use epoxy "fillets" to increase the surface area of a glued joint. This is done by adding a filler to the epoxy, such as wood flour (sanding dust), silica, or microbaloons. The thickened mixture is worked into the angle of the joint with something like a popsicle stick or tongue depressor leaving a fillet of material.

See: https://www.westsystem.com.au/basic-techniques/bonding-with-fillets/

But epoxy fillets are messy. As a hobby woodworker, I would probably cut some wood sticks to fasten inside the joints.

Before using any glue or paint on aluminum, it must be very clean and a little bit rough (not polished).

 

[BrianShaw]

Another option is fabricating outside full-length corner cleats that you can screw or rivet to the sides.

Yes!, that’s what I meant by exoskeleton. Screw or glue or metal tape… he’ll consider this good design option sooner or later. 1 mm aluminum sheet is just too thin for many other options.

 

[Dan Fromm]

A 210mm 5.6, but I do not expect to get the full 6x17 frame.

Interesting. Which 210/5.6 will you use? I ask because the typical LF 210/5.6 covers more than its focal length and the diagonal of nominal 6x17 (in reality, probably 56 mm x 170 mm) is ~ 180 mm.

 

[grain elevator]

Oh and if you use epoxy, you'll need to add black pigment to it to get light-tight seams!

 

[Dan Daniel]

@Mustafa-umut-sarac Keep going.

It's easy to find issues with what someone is doing after they have done it. Typical design and build process. You can convey those issues with helpfulness and guidance, or you can be snide and demeaning about it if that's what you need to feel good about yourself.

I will second the idea of external tape for initial assembly. Vinyl electrical tape or duct tape. Epoxy plus tape might work well. A helpful thing to do is attach small guide blocks on the inside edge of a part for another part to lean against during assembly. A 2 or 3mm square rod cut short of the ends, epoxied inside one part and set back 1mm from the edge might give you the solidity you need. I've butt-glued 1.5mm material for a rough camera box, but 1mm is getting down there for simple butt joints.

Black markers are not a good approach to blacking the aluminum. Flat black spray paint is what you want. Sure, aluminum should be roughed and an etch primer used for lasting adhesion. But for now just get it blacked out some?

Ideas should come to you on other ways to do things. Very possibly you will be able to use the parts you have for a working prototype, and that might be all you need.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Another option is to glue non-glossy black paper or fabric to the parts of the body that will be inside.