DiXactol and stand development

[Usagi]

Hi,
I use DiXactol along with Pyrocat-HD and Xtol 1+1.
After reading Thorntons Edge of Darkness, I noticed that he used Dixactol also as stand developer. The developing times were quite short though.

Has anyone tried this developer with stand developing? If so, what kind of result you got?

 

[Videbaek]

Yes, I've used the Dixactol Ultra in stand development. Checking notes... Tri-X 400/120 exposed at 400 generously, stand-developed for 9 mins 30 seconds at 24 degrees gave very nice negatives. Good sharpness, normal grain, but the highlights are the best thing -- very delicately edging up to white but not touching into it, as one would expect with this staining developer. Sharpness is nothing extraordinary, not to be expected with this film anyway. Also developed a roll of Agfa APX100, 35 mm, in this developer. It was slightly underexposed so I had to overdevelop somewhat, which isn't recommended apparently: 11 mins at 24 degrees, normal agitation. Here is was very pleasantly surprised with the results: most excellent, the best resolving power and detail I've ever gotten with the lens in question. Very dark staining (I gave it the extra 2 mins in used developer at the end as recommended), probably would be just fine in the darkroom. Only a test roll.

 

[Usagi]

Thank you. That gave me some starting points.

 

[Stoo Batchelor]

Hi Usagi

Di-Xactol used to be the developer of my choice. I use Ilford Delta films and looking back at my notes, I developed the 100asa for 9.5 mins at 24 degrees and 400asa for 10.5 mins at 24 degrees, both single bath. The sharpest prints I have ever printed have come from negatives from this developer.

However, I must add. if you plan on using this developer with Fuji Neopan, I would strongly advise you not to, as I had a good few films reticulate on me and I never found out the reason why. I just changed films.

Barry Thornton suggests using Exactol Lux for 35mm film and I would advise to go with it. My own personal reason, though not Barry's, would be because of the grain, especially in the sky areas, it was far too prominent for my liking.

One other thing to note. The best , most easiest negatives to print, and by far the sharpest I ever had, was when I messed up the mixing of the chemicals. I mixed up enough chemicals for 600ml of water, but only put 450ml of water in the developing tank. A mistake well worth repeating.

I hope these little snippets of info help you.

regards

Stoo

 

[fhovie]

Di-Xactol used to be the developer of my choice also - with Pyrocat-P - I get what I was looking for with Di-Xactol with less cost and greater flexability. Over half my developing is stand processing and I use Pyrocat-P for all of it. Both are Cetechol based and both are high accutance developers - they act similar because they are made similar. The -P version adds a more (observed) robust mid tone expression as well as bullit proof highlights.