Diving into the MF world! Searching for my first camera

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GRHazelton

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I have an Autocord, an Ikoflex, and a YashicaMat. Here are some observations on those three I posted in flickr:
As noted just below I have a "new" Autocord L. Lovely box! Mine has been thoroughly gone over, new "leather," focusing cleaned and smooth and light, shutter CLA, mirror and focus screen cleaned. The camera looks as if it sat in a showcase as a demo for decades. I also have the original lens cap! The leather case is in bad shape, it needs conditioner and re-sewing.
The meter works and seems accurate. Given its operating instructions I think I'll use a hand-held meter.

This is my third TLR. I also have an Ikoflex B with 3.5 Tessar, a YashicaMat 124G with 3.5 Yashinon, and the AutoCord. Some comparative notes:

The Ikoflex is in a class by itself. Not always a good thing! The film loading is NOT intuitive and really demands practice with just the backing paper. A red window is involved! But it does have automatic film stop. Shutter and aperture settings locations are also not as one would expect. Manual shutter cocking! On the plus side, the Zeiss Tessar is excellent, fit and finish are excellent (my example while working perfectly needs some cosmetic paint touch up, and of course the Zeiss cachet), the viewing screen is good, etc. All in all if you can adapt to the camera it will serve you well.

YashicaMat G. The Yashinon is a Tessar formula lens. Excellent. I like the thumb wheels to adjust shutter and aperture, and the readouts visible from above. Film loading is pretty standard: advance till the arrows on the backing paper align with dots on the film gate, close the back and crank to stop and frame one. Of course the Rolleiflex AutoMat and later are simpler, but the cost! The YashicaMat is a Rolleiflex imitation. I'm told that it isn't as reliable. It seems that switching the shutter from M to X or to V - self timer - will really jam things up; many users glue the selector to X. Like the Rolleis and the Ikoflex the YashicaMat needs moving one's hands to focus, expose, and wind. My Yashica will take either 120 or 220 film - if you can find the latter! Fit and finish are very good, mine is government surplus marred by a accession number on a metal sticker.

Autocord. The Rokkor is a Tessar lens, also excellent. Mine has the meter - working! But not convenient. I really like the focus lever under the lens panel! Focus and shoot with left hand, wind with the right. Shutter and aperture set by sliders - the Yash's thumbwheels probably give better dust sealing, but readout is visible from above as on the YashicaMat. Film loading as with the YashicaMat. About that focus lever: It seems that the alloy for some of it is brittle. If that ancient grease on the focus helix gums up its easy to break the focus lever. Easy does it! The film supply loads on the top of the camera, then after exposure turns 90 degrees to the take up spool, as opposed to the usual reverse path. There has been concern about the film making that 90 degree turn developing a "crease" before exposure; on the Autocord that can't happen.

So far the Autocord is my favorite, followed by the YashicaMat, and then the Ikoflex B. All will produce excellent results, the Autocord makes the process easier. Of course, YMMV.​

I also have a Bronica S2a, which is needs replacing some foam bumpers on the focus screen and the mirror. This has to be the world's loudest SLR. Horses shy, children cry, grown men tremble at its report. Excellent lenses when you can find them, Nikon made them for early Bronicas, later Bronicas used Zenzanon glass. I understand that repairs are costly. The Bronica S2 has brass gears in its film transport, as opposed to steel in the S2a, more reliable.
Has anyone mentioned the Pentax 645? I have the 645n which handles like a big 35mm SLR. Really intuitive, autofocus with suitable lenses. The autofocus lenses have jumped in price with the introduction of Pentax' digital 645d, etc. Manual focus lenses are very good, proper metal and glass with only a little plastic. The 35mm wide angle is excellent! Minimal distortion and really sharp. The 120 macro goes to 1 to 1 without attachments, and is very good. The 645n has TTL flash with the appropriate units. This is THE way for flash photography; should you need fill flash outdoors there is a leaf shutter lens available.
 

GLS

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I think that was the whole point of the discussion. You can shoot IR with an SLR but it is much more cumbersome than shooting IR with a rangefinder or TLR. I have the bits to shoot IR with my Bronica SLR, but since I’m mostly a handheld shooter, I haven’t really given it much effort. I’ve stuck with the Kodak which makes some great images with the Schneider-Kreuzenach lens. If I was serious about IR on Medium format, I’d look for a rangefinder.

The counter argument to that is that many TLRs or rangefinders have no form of precise IR focusing correction, as you get with SLRs.
 

DWThomas

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The counter argument to that is that many TLRs or rangefinders have no form of precise IR focusing correction, as you get with SLRs.
But I have the impression most of today's "IR" film is so close to the visible wavelengths in its spectral sensitivity that a correction is not actually necessary. I admit I have not tried to empirically confirm that by tests, but it seems a reasonable assumption.
 

GLS

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But I have the impression most of today's "IR" film is so close to the visible wavelengths in its spectral sensitivity that a correction is not actually necessary. I admit I have not tried to empirically confirm that by tests, but it seems a reasonable assumption.

It probably has less of an impact than with "true" IR films, but nonetheless I use the correction when shooting IR400 and the area of sharpest focus ends up where it should be.
 

Kyle M.

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As someone who's owned just about every common MF camera out there these would be my suggestions.

If you don't mind a fixed lens and not being able to change film mid roll I'd say Rolleiflex Automat, Rolleicord, Minolta Autocord,Yashica D "the version with the yashinon lens not yashicor as it gives you the 2.8 as opposed to 3.5 viewing lens" a plain Yashica Mat, or Yashica LM, or the 124 or 124G.

If you want an SLR style camera I'd go with an RB67, Mamiya 645, RZ67 if you can afford one "I just sold a Pro II version with 120 back, waistlevel, and 110/2.8 lens back in June for $1200!" I personally love my Bronica SQ-A probably the best camera I've owned. I shot an RB67 Pro S with 90mm lens as my main camera for a little over two years, if I could find a deal on one I'd gladly go back to it. I had a Hasselblad 500C briefly and it was great but it was expensive enough I didn't use it much as I was afraid of damaging it. Which is funny as I've never dropped or damaged any other camera.

If you want a rangefinder the Fuji 690's are excellant, the Koni Omega is kinda bulky but has wonderful optics, the film advance can be an issue. There's also the excellant Mamiya 6 and Mamiya 7. If you want a folding rangefinder working Moskva's can be had from Fedka for about 1/4 the price of a Zeiss. He has the Moskva 2, 4, and 5 in stock. The 2 and 4 have the 110mm f4.5 lens, the 2 has no flash sync and is 6x9 only, the 4 has x sync and can do 6x6 if you can find the frame mask. The Moskva 5 has a 105 f3.5 lens, x sync, and a self timer, along with a flat top plate. He also has a 5 that includes the 6x6 mask.

If I had to narrow it down to my top choice in each category it would be.

TLR; Yashica-Mat 124G, amazing camera if you can score one for $250 or less. $300 if it's mint with case.

SLR; RB67 Pro-S or Pro-SD, or the Bronica SQ-A or SQ-Ai

Rangefinder; I've gotta go with either a Moskva or Zeiss folder here. I personally feel that my $100 Moskva puts the 4 Zeiss folders I've had to shame.
 
Last edited:
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Diana. It’s an amazing release.
 
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