Having to do it in total darkness doesn't bother me, but besides that, Is there any known problems or concerns to develop roll films in reels using the dip-and-dunk method in open tanks (instead of the usual inversion method using day-light tanks)?
If you get things all setup properly beforehand you might even have less problems with the dip and dunk method. That is if you like the darkness, and you said you didn't mind it. Also, if you use tanks like the old Kodak hard rubber tanks or similar you could go to using replenished type developers (HC-110 - Xtol) and have the best of both worlds. All you have to do is replenish with a small amount of developer and then cover the tank properly. You're then already for next time. Say, "Hello darkness my old friend, I've come to talk with you again.............................JohnWHaving to do it in total darkness doesn't bother me, but besides that, Is there any known problems or concerns to develop roll films in reels using the dip-and-dunk method in open tanks (instead of the usual inversion method using day-light tanks)?
Hi John, thank you for the reply.If you get things all setup properly beforehand you might even have less problems with the dip and dunk method. That is if you like the darkness, and you said you didn't mind it. Also, if you use tanks like the old Kodak hard rubber tanks or similar you could go to using replenished type developers (HC-110 - Xtol) and have the best of both worlds. All you have to do is replenish with a small amount of developer and then cover the tank properly. You're then already for next time. Say, "Hello darkness my old friend, I've come to talk with you again.............................JohnW
Oh, I don't need that big of a rig. I don't process that many rolls at once. The main benefit of such a big rig is, I guess, it saves time. But time isn't really a concern for me, dexterity is. See my post above.I have Arkay and Nikor racks that fit standard SS tanks. Hold 30 35mm reels (6 stacks of 5 reels) I think 18 120 reels.
Yes, that's how you do it. most folks who still dip and dunk use a piece of stainless steel wire shaped to from a "T" and set the reels on that. Agitation is just a matter of slowly lifting and lowering the reel in the tanks solution. Never lift higher than the liquid level in the tank itself. A little slip once in a while won't kill the roll, but I'd use a latex gloved hand to keep a figure near the upper liquid level just in case. I'm 72 and I really know what you're talking about as to things not operating the same as they did a few years back. I have some Ethol UFG film developer and replenisher that might just go in some spare tanks I got. Hmmm! JohnWHi John, thank you for the reply.
I haven't had the chance to try it out yet. But as I grow older and older, hands and fingers aren't as agile as before; it's getting more difficult to use the inversion method when I use a large tank to develop many rolls together. With the D-n-D method, I would have all the tanks filled with chemicals and lined up already and so I just moved fro tank to tanks with relative ease.
My main concern is evenness in development. Do you have experience with this?
Is there any known problems or concerns to develop roll films in reels using the dip-and-dunk method in open tanks
My main concern is evenness in development. Do you have experience with this?
Funny thing was, I don't remember having nearly the same amount of it in the early 70's.
Surging is a known problem, generally more with 135 on the traditional size stainless reels in deep tanks.
I wonder would surge marks be avoided if you lift and drop the reels slowly.I tried a D&D approach to 120 film in a small Kodak rubber tank, to combat surge, bit it seemed worse. Tri-x and Rodinal.
In fact I tried many different agitation schemes with different developers and films, especially 120 and almost never got a roll without it. I went back and forth with Don Cardwell (some of you may remember him) with some of his suggestions and never defeated it - although I got better at burning in techniques when printing (or scanning).
Funny thing was, I don't remember having nearly the same amount of it in the early 70's. Maybe my standards have changed.
Now you're thinking! It's all in how you agitate or don't agitate. I have dip & dunked on reels before and never had a problem with surge patterns. I think it has to do with how you dip & dunk and possibly it's safer with certain developers over others. All you really want to do is raise and lower a small amount since the goal is to just introduce the emulsion to newer, more active (fresher) developer. That only requires a small amount of movement. Oh, and you can get surge patterns in a Nikkor tank also. Again, your style is what will save you or break you. I'd just do it with a few non-important practice rolls to see what you think. Good luck! JohnWI wonder would surge marks be avoided if you lift and drop the reels slowly.
I wonder would surge marks be avoided if you lift and drop the reels slowly.
Reels are either Nikkor (original, both 35 and 120) and Hewes for some 120. I've had the Nikkor reels since the late 60's, they've always been my favorite, once if found the best technique to load them. The tanks are Kinderman - I like the flexible lid.
I even got surge with Trix and Rodinal using a reel (120) in an open Kodak 4x5 rubber tank, just lifting and moving every minute by hand - lights off. Still there.
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