Digibase Ready to use kit

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ericdan

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Hi,
Does anybody here have experience with this kit? It comes in 500ml packs ready to use and apparently last for 14 rolls of film and 12 months. Sounds almost to good to be true.
That would save me over 50% on developing.

Also, if I wanted to use Fuji's photoflo would I just mix that in with the stabilizer?

Thanks!
 

wombat2go

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I purchased the "5 litre" kit 18 months ago.
I mix 500 mm solutions per batch and do one roll at a time in the tank.
So far I have done 3 batches of about 10 rolls each.
The only problem was an error on the mixing sheet which makes the stabilizer concentration twice what it should be. ( The label on the bottle is correct)
 

Nuff

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I might be special, but I had colour shifts in my attempts and I gave up. And in Australia the prices are 2-3 times higher than in Japan.
Not to mention the film that I process in Japan is dust free and the ones here in Australian lab are covered lots of dust.

Anyway, example of the colour shifts I got (and I used a PID to control temperature too):

R1-14.jpg by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr


Drool by Jarek Miszkinis, on Flickr

EDIT: A lot of people do it and don't have the issues that I did, but I didn't want to play around with it and I'm very happy with my BW results.
 

Nuff

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This is the kind of setup I had, before I managed to make it into one boxed unit to shield all the wires, I sold it as I decided to stick to BW only.
I got it from ebay and it needed a fair bit of DIY. I think it was this one, you will need 110V version, the one in linke 220V.

ubyteqaj.jpg
 

madgardener

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I use a digital temperature controller, wired to an outlet which has a fish tank heater (thermostat disabled) plugged into it. Got the idea right here on APUG.

The PID is a Willhi Digital Temperature Controller, that I picked up off Ebay for $13USD, the whole setup cost me under $50USD, plus an hour or so to wire everything up and another hour(ish) to calibrate and make sure it worked properly. As a side note, it worked so well, that I made myself 3 more controller/outlet combinations. Two for my fish tanks, and one to plug my crockpot into to make a cheap sous vide unit. They work quite well.
 
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Don't mix anything in with the stabilizer. Stabilizer already has a wetting agent in it, and it should be the last substance that touches the film.
 

Rudeofus

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I might be special, but I had colour shifts in my attempts and I gave up. And in Australia the prices are 2-3 times higher than in Japan.
Not to mention the film that I process in Japan is dust free and the ones here in Australian lab are covered lots of dust.

Did you measure these color shifts with test strips and a densitometer, or at least with optical RA-4 printing? You do realize that scanners and their software drivers introduce all kinds of "smart" corrections that end up looking like color shifts and cross over ... ?
 

bvy

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Did you measure these color shifts with test strips and a densitometer, or at least with optical RA-4 printing? You do realize that scanners and their software drivers introduce all kinds of "smart" corrections that end up looking like color shifts and cross over ... ?

I was going to respond to that exact effect. One example: Kodak Profoto XL (RIP) consistently scans on my Epson V500 scanner with a green/gold cast. I've read that others experience the same. When I wet print it, I see nothing of the sort. And I'm not dialing in some crazy filtration to compensate. In fact it's very consistent for me between rolls and prints beautifully at 65M+75Y.

I'd caution anyone to draw conclusions about their C-41 processing based on casual scanning -- at least as it relates to color balance.
 

Simonh82

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The Rollei digibase stabiliser doesn't seem to have a wetting agent included. I've mixed some photoflo with mine and it has worked well.
 

Nuff

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I was going to respond to that exact effect. One example: Kodak Profoto XL (RIP) consistently scans on my Epson V500 scanner with a green/gold cast. I've read that others experience the same. When I wet print it, I see nothing of the sort. And I'm not dialing in some crazy filtration to compensate. In fact it's very consistent for me between rolls and prints beautifully at 65M+75Y.

I'd caution anyone to draw conclusions about their C-41 processing based on casual scanning -- at least as it relates to color balance.

I don't have any issues with any other film that I have scanned. I'm not sure where I would wet print in my apartment.
By the way, this 2 photos were scanned on my friends Frontier SP3000 and even that couldn't correct for the colour shifts.
 
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wombat2go

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The scanner does not know the density vs log exposure curves ( or "gamma" curves) for the C41 color film you just processed
There are actually 3 gamma curves and 2 level curves, but after some trials I approximate with just one average gamma value. For Fuji pro 160 and Superia 200 and 400 in the C41 Digibase, I use an average reciprocal gamma of 0.68 applied the "levels" meaning to all 3 channels.

And in my experience with 2 scanners, putting the curve in the scanner is not so easy whereas it is easy to put in the curves in an image editor ( I use CinePaint for this because it has 16 bit depth)

So I scan to 16 bit tifs. positve from negative,with everything auto but all color adjustments "off" in the scannner.
The raw file is then opened for color balancing. At first it has a color cast ( blue or green), also the contrast is flat.
Firstly I just pull the gamma to 0.68. That brings back the contrast.

Secondly to trim out the cast, I use gray balance. Sometimes the auto gray balance works very well. If it does not, I then select eyedropper for a manual gray balance and look for the whitest highlight, or gray stone, or cloud, or something else that is gray or white.
The gray balance effectively and automatically finely adjusts the relative levels of 2 channels relative to the third, so that something under the eyedropper that was gray in real life is of equal values ( Eg 127,127,127) for mid gray or say (220,220,220) for bright white.

I found that if fiddling with individual channel curves, the image usually looks un-natural, so i try to confine my adjustments to the above 2 quick and simple steps.
 

Jaf-Photo

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I have used both the ready-to-use and mix-it-yourself kits from Digibase.

They're both good, and the ready-to-use saves some work with the heating and mixing.

The biggest advantage to me is that you get good colours even if you use them at room temperature. That saves a lot of hassle trying to hit 100F.

The colour shift only comes if you miss the time for the temperature you use. I made an excel sheet with a time-temperature curve. So I just read the temperature after pouring the developer in the tank and cross-reference the chart for the correct time. (I find that the bleach and fix need a couple of minutes extra for a nice clean film.)

Here are two recent examples on Kodak Ektar 35mm. The flower was developed at 22C and the castle at 26C:

14504814071_67d0fbd10e_h_d.jpg 14507747819_0fa3045f8d_h_d.jpg

I can recommend it!
 
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ericdan

ericdan

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Actually the ready to use kit doesn't come with a stabilizer. There were three things in the box. I thought it was developer, blix and stabilizer, but it turns out it's developer, bleach and fixer. No stabilizer in there. Very odd. I assume that's sold separately then.
 
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