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Differences in Acros 100 emulsions?

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Austin_Jessup

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I'm hoping someone with experience shooting Acros 100 across formats can help me out - are there differences in emulsions from 35mm to 120 to 4x5? I've shot a fair amount of 35mm and it is far and away my favorite film. I've developed some 120 in pyrocat hd, and it poured out a dark purple color compared to pink from the 35mm. I wasn't thrilled with the results and will need to adjust to get better results.

My main question is if anyone has shot the 4x5 version of Acros and knows how the results stack up to 120 and 35mm?

Thanks!
 
How does the color of the effluent matter in a black-and-white system?
That's just the anti-halation dye dissolving off the back of the film.

I've shot many hundreds of sheets and rolls of Acros in all available formats, all developed in Rodinal.
I've never encountered any inconsistencies.

I can't attest to uniformity when using other developers.

- Leigh
 
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I have had no problem developing ACROS 100 in both 35mm and 120 format, the two developers I use are Rodinal (ADOX) and Kodak D76 both developers work fine
I find that Rodinal gives a slightly higher contrast than D76. What developer you use determines what you get. I tend to stay away from non standard developers, it is one less variable to deal with when taking and printing a image.

The first thing they teach in photography class is to reduce your variables use the same film, same developer, same ISO, same Printing paper. Once you are consistently
getting good images then try a different developer or film type but only change one thing in your system that way if things don't develop right you can easily work out why.

....Also Keep notes in a notebook that way you know what you did last time you tried that or this.

Johnkpap
 
The different formats are on different substrates, and only one of the three formats involves backing so there has to be some differences in manufacture. So don't worry about colour of the liquid.
The three different formats will involve three different lens sets, so three distinct sets of flare and contrast conditions. In addition, you may be using multiple meters. All of which means that you have variables that will need to be fine tuned in order to obtain similar results across formats.
 
I have shot quite a bit of the 4x5 acros and subjective opinion is that there is nothing better. Love it.
 
The first thing they teach in photography class is to reduce your variables use the same film, same developer, same ISO, same Printing paper. Once you are consistently getting good images then try a different developer or film type but only change one thing in your system that way if things don't develop right you can easily work out why.
Absolutely and critically true.

- Leigh
 
PhotoEngineer at some point stated here on APUG, that each coated emulsion is measured and analyzed right after drying, and receives adjustment layers to get the correct ISO speed and spectral response. Since 120 roll film material is typically coated in different runs than 135 or large format material, there's a good chance that these adjustment layers will differ, and they may well show up as dye during first wash.
 
I imagine more inconsistencies would be introduced by the necessarily different processing/agitation methods needed for different film formats. Processing 4x5 in a tray or even in a daylight tank is just not the same as processing 35mm film in a small tank. If your results are not the same throughout all formats, I'd recommend tweaking processing times to get the results in line.

Best,

Doremus
 
Thanks everyone for your replies!

Its helpful to know not to pay too close attention to the color. I have used the same 4x5 camera and 150mm lens (and a 120 back) that I will be using in 4x5, so I'll just work with that until I get a look that is reminiscent of results in 35mm. I'll probably shoot at different ISO ratings around the stated speed and develop normally, as I use the same tank for 35mm and 120, and see if that gives me some direction.

Thanks again,
Austin
 
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