Diana Mini - shutter problem

[Steve@f8]

The shutter was dead on arrival having purchased from an eBay seller (refunded back to PayPa) so nil cost to me.
It has a couple of issues:
1) The shutter is permanently open, or partly open like a cat‘s eye, irrespective of the shutter position, either B or N, and pressing the shutter release makes no difference, ie the shutter will not close.
2) The film advance knob turns without stopping to indicate the next frame.

Since there’s little to lose, I would try to fix the shutter (possibly a spring has come off) if I could find a guide how to get at the shutter. Anyone know?

I‘m happy to leave the film advance as it is, unless it’s linked to the shutter, since I purchased the camera for Dianaramas.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Maybe adapt a 'flip-open' -type lens cap to use as a shutter?

 

[xkaes]

I would squirt some WD-40 into the shutter. Otherwise -- DOA

 

[MattKing]

Pinhole!

 

[Donald Qualls]

If that shutter is like the one in the full size Diana, it's a simple "rotary" type and the jam is likely due to a foreign object or broken actuating spring. The former is an easy fix if you can get into it.

Most 110 cameras won't stop the advance unless there's film present with the single perf per frame to actuate the little feeler -- which is what locks the advance until the shutter is fired. It's possible to test this by careful manipulation of that feeler to simulate riding on the film surface then popping up into the hole...

 

[Steve@f8]

Thanks Donald.
Mine is the Diana Mini 135. Reading the instructions, and those from actual users of the camera, it seems to have two quirks, one being not to attempt switching from square to half frame, or vice versa, after winding on (two bat wings protrude behind the shutter internally for 1/2 frame). And resetting the film counter by firing a blank before refitting the back. It sounds as if it has a shutter interlock for the square / half frame selector on the back of the camer.
Having Googled for ages, the only shutter fix I’ve come across is for the Diana‘s big brother, I think it’s the Dianna F. The tutorial mentions removing the lens by twisting anticlockwise to reveal the plastic shutter mechanism (it appears detachment of a spring is quite common). This afternoon I plan to start unscrewing things in hope of getting to the shutter. If not the camera will end up in the recycling bin.

 

[xkaes]

The 1/2 frame vs 24x24 should not have any impact on the shutter -- although it does effect the film advance.. That's just the format. The shutter should be completely separate.

My advice would be to bang it on the wall a couple of time, and if that doesn't work, tear it apart -- and then get a replacement. YOU HAVE A lot OF OPTIONS:

http://www.subclub.org/shop/halframe.htm

 

[xya]

If you were successful with getting to the shutter, please let us know howto. And no, I would not bang it on the wall. There are a lot of options for half-frame in theory, but most are big, heavy and/or expensive. I had quite some. The Samurai shown first is BIG and weighs more than 600gr. Most half-frames are bigger than a good compact 24x36.

The Diana Mini is relatively small, light and inexpensive. 2 alternatives come to m mind : the Lomo Agat 18k and the Superheadz Golden Half.

 

[Steve@f8]

Thanks xkae, I removed the top cover and a circular spring of approx 15mm diameter fell out and I can’t figure out how to put it back. But I'm not to bothered since my intention is to shoot nothing other than Dianaramas with the camera, that’s if I can get the shutter working.
Moving on, I’m probably going to set the Diana aside and get myself a Holga 135, or 135BC if I can figure how to remove the black corner filter.

For 1/2 frame I have an Olympus FT with a couple of lenses, but it does not shoot continuous panoramas.

 

[xkaes]

If you want continuous panoramas, you have a few options -- check out the SPLIT-CAM FUSION and the LOMO SUPER-SAMPLER -- and the Diana's

http://www.subclub.org/shop/35mmmisc.htm

 

[xkaes]

There are a lot of options for half-frame in theory, but most are big, heavy and/or expensive.

Over-simplification. While there are lots of "big, heavy and/or expensive" half-frames, there are lots that are not. You even mention two yourself -- but there are many more. Anyone who is interested, should check out my links (above).

 

[xya]

For your continous panoramas there might be another one, the Holga TIM https://www.plastikcam.com/holga_135_tim.htm it has a tripod socket, 3 apertures, but only one speed.

 

[Steve@f8]

For your continous panoramas there might be another one, the Holga TIM https://www.plastikcam.com/holga_135_tim.htm it has a tripod socket, 3 apertures, but only one speed.

Thanks once again, you’re being very helpful.
If you search Holgaramas (or Dianaramas like the ones in the following link, that’s what I’m after https://shootitwithfilm.com/how-to-shoot-holgaramas/ )
I‘m eyeing up a Holga 135BC and I’ll probably buy one shortly.
It would be ideal if I could remove the black corner mask as I prefer it without the false vignette.

 

[xkaes]

The Holga 135TIM, as well as the SPLIT-CAM FUSION and the LOMO SUPER-SAMPLER, are listed with details in the links I proved above. All of these are lightweight and inexpensive -- especially if you are not in a rush.

Another, not so inexpensive, camera for SUPER panoramas is the very compact Lomo LC-Wide. It has a 17mm lens and can produce three formats -- over-lapping if you want -- with multiple-exposure capability. The lens is two-zone focus, and fixed aperture (f4.5), but has an electronic shutter for complete exposure accuracy -- with adjustable ISO.

It is also covered in the links (above).

 

[Steve@f8]

Already have a Lomo LC-Wide, it’s brilliant camera, love it. Purchased mine having seen the fab images produced by Huss.
To be able to do microclicks for Holgaramas, it’s either the Holga or Diana. Film advance and shutter release must be independent of each other to produce these.

 

[xkaes]

To be able to do microclicks for Holgaramas, it’s either the Holga or Diana. Film advance and shutter release must be independent of each other to produce these.

Film advance and shutter cocking are independent on all of the cameras I listed above.

 

[xya]

I‘m eyeing up a Holga 135BC and I’ll probably buy one shortly. It would be ideal if I could remove the black corner mask as I prefer it without the false vignette.

I have both, the ordinary 135 and the BC. It's just a mask, no other difference. I have not done it, but it seems as if the mask is easy to take out.

 

[Steve@f8]

I have both, the ordinary 135 and the BC. It's just a mask, no other difference. I have not done it, but it seems as if the mask is easy to take out.

I’ll run a few rolls to begin with, but I’ll probably do some surgery on it in due course.

 

[xya]