Technidol is a discontined, special purpose developer designed to be used with an unusual film. It probably won't be the best choice for your purposes, and it might very well command a decent price if you re-sold it.
Use something else that is both much more common and cheaper. D76 comes to mind.
There is no need to replace all chems, but as you indicated, your fixer is most definitely dysfunctional. Since color fixer is pretty much indestructible, you must have done something very wrong with it. Are you 100% sure you followed the mixing instructions to the letter? What does the concentrate look like?
The good thing is that you can rebleach and refix your negs as often as you need. As things look right now, you can leave your Technidol in the shelf and shift all your focus on getting a working fixer bath. When you prepare your next batch of color fixer, perform that clip clearing test before you commit further film to it, it works pretty much the same as clip clearing test for B&W fixers.
Just to be 100% sure that we're talking about the same thing: you dipped a fresh, unprocessed negative test clip into fixer for several minutes and it had no visible effect?
It did have effect, but it wasn't 100% clear (save the orange mask, of course). It did clear quite a bit, but not fully.
In this case your fixer is toast. If you can't get your hands onto fresh fixer soon, you could try to refix your existing negs by extending fixer time to at least three times as long as it takes to completely clear a test clip in this soup. Even then you should refix the negs with fresh fixer once you have it.
In this case your fixer is toast. If you can't get your hands onto fresh fixer soon, you could try to refix your existing negs by extending fixer time to at least three times as long as it takes to completely clear a test clip in this soup. Even then you should refix the negs with fresh fixer once you have it.
Question: How do I know how long it takes the fixer to clear the test strip if that strip has to be inside the developing tank, out of the light? At least I understood that, since if the light hits it, it is not "unexposed" anymore
I did as you said and scanned with my camera and compared with the ones from the lab. The quality is significantly lower, as expected, but it is the best I can do for now. I know that lab uses a kickass scanner, so they have really good resolution.
Still, the quality loss is visible mainly as blurred edges, not added noise (in fact, the scans were noisier than the photos). I did what I could to match the colors, so it would be easier to compare, but I did no further editing, sharpening masks or anything.
BTW, how do you get good color from your scans? Even Color Perfect was giving me really bad colors on these photos
Curious to see whether it improved things. If it did, then you should simply extend your bleach and fixer times to six minutes each for future process runs.I tested my fixer again after googling a bit what I should be looking for. It seems to be ok, but I will still replace it, just in case, a new bottle is not expensive, and I'd rather be on the safe side.
Still, I rebleached and refixed the whole roll (8 min bleach and 10 min fix) and it is drying now, I'll post the results tomorrow =)
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