Development Process ?

[marsbars]

I don't have the attention span to search through 400 threads so it is easier to just ask. So here goes.
I have been reading up on processing my film and some sources state that a hypo clearing agent is needed and others such as Ilford don't even mention it. Is this added chemical necessary for film? I can see a need with fiber papers. I plan to use a non hardening fix.

 

[rmartin]

My recollection is that a hypo clearing agent shortens the wash time but is not necessary when washing film. I use a non-hardening fixer, Jobo tanks, and the Jobo film washer without an HCA. With 20-25 min wash, I have not seen any evidence of the films not being properly washed after up to 4 years.

I am by no means and expert in this, so feel free to take my comments with the appropriate grain (or shaker full of ) salt.

 

[reub2000]

I think HCA is mainly for hardening fixers and fiber based paper.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I think HCA is mainly for hardening fixers and fiber based paper.

For fixing film and fiber base paper: If you use a non-hardening rapid fixer, that contains ammonium ion (like TF-4, Ilford Hypam, etc), a wash aid (like HCA) is not needed.

 

[srs5694]

As others have said, it just speeds up the wash process, and even for that it may not be very helpful, depending on your fixer. My thinking on the matter is that it's unlikely to do any harm, so if I have any doubt, I use hypo clear. Better to use an unnecessary but harmless chemical than to discover, perhaps years from now, that my film was inadequately washed.

 

[radiantdarkroom]

If you want to spend half the time processing your film I suggest using hypo-clear. Instead of a 30 min wash in just water you can rinse for 30 sec, hypo clear for 2 min, and then wash for 5min. That's 8 minutes vs 30 minutes wash. I prefer less time. But if your hurting for money and supplies. If your using rapid fix for film processing I definitely suggest using part B hardener. Fix will last longer.

 

[bdial]

HCA isn't required, it can shorten wash times, however, it does itself form compounds that must be washed from the film, or stability can be affected.
This is the Readers Digest form of some of the many discussions of fixing and HCA that are elsewhere in the forum.
Mostly, I don't use it, I have 30+ year old negatives (and fiber prints) that didn't get HCA and they're fine, and I have little doubt that they will outlast me.

For film, there is an Ilford wash method that many here are proponents of that doesn't use HCA, takes only a few minutes, and uses little water.

 

[MikeSeb]

Fortunately for you, a search on "hypo clear" doesn't require much attention span!

Use an alkaline non-hardening fixer like Formulary's TF-4 and it's not needed. Questionable otherwise. Ilford and maybe? kodak recommend alkaline non-hardening fixer for their films. Easier, simpler, more archival; hardeners are built-in to the emulsion.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

If you want to spend half the time processing your film I suggest using hypo-clear. Instead of a 30 min wash in just water you can rinse for 30 sec, hypo clear for 2 min, and then wash for 5min. That's 8 minutes vs 30 minutes wash. I prefer less time. But if your hurting for money and supplies. If your using rapid fix for film processing I definitely suggest using part B hardener. Fix will last longer.

No! Use a non-hardening rapid fixer that contains ammonium Ion (like TF-4, Ilford Hypam, Kodak Rapid Fix, OF-1, etc., etc.) Then washing will be faster and use less water and no washing aid or hypo clear is needed.

 

[dancqu]

[QUOTES=bdial;479041]
"HCA isn't required, it can shorten wash times, ..."

Shorten wash times. I'm not sure that is the case with film or
RC papers. After all there is some overhead in time using HCA.
Unless fresh there is some question of the hca's quality. Usual
HCAs are of a chemical composition which oxidize easily. I don't
go for finger crossing in the darkroom. If I use a hca it is Agfa's
recommended sodium carbonate; not off the shelf save for
some local grocery or PF.

"Mostly, I don't use it, I have 30+ year old negatives
(and fiber prints) that didn't get HCA and they're fine, ..."

I've 70 and 80 year old negatives and 50 year old FB prints,
all of which never heard of HCA, which are just fine. Although
I was using an acid ammonium thiosulfate rapid fixer in the 50s
it is safe to assume that the film was fixed using a sodium
thiosulfate fixer. Sodium thiosulfate anhydrous is fixer in
solid form and at full strength when added to water.
I use it to the exclusion of any other fixer.

"For film, there is an Ilford wash method that many here
are proponents of that doesn't use HCA, takes only a few
minutes, and uses little water."

I use the Ilford sequence with little modification. Each wash
cycle includes some still time. That time increases with each
cycle. Three cycles plus a Photo-Flo, 10 to 15 minutes; a
relaxed approach to film washing. Dan

 

[fhovie]

I never used to use HCA. Lately though - I have been spiking my first wash with Sodium Sulfite - it is the primary ingredient in HCA and it will draw thiosulphates out of the prints. Sodium Sulfite is a primary ingredient in just about everything so get a lot (I get it 50# at a time) and sprinkle some in for the first wash. - It is really only necessary for FB prints and less necessary if your Fixer is Ammonium Thiosulfate based instead of Sodium Thiosulfate based.