Development Problem

shidareyanagi · Apr 4, 2016

Just developed my first ever roll of film in a stainless steel LPL tank.
Film: FujiFilm Neopan 100.
Developer: Kodak D-47 (7minutes 30 seconds)
Stop Bath: Acetic acid (50%) 80ml diluted in 2 litres of water (1 minute)
Fixer: Ilford Hypam Fixer (9 minutes)

12 frames came out fine but others came out with these big white holes. Some pictures seemed like they had been virtually erased. Any ideas what is causing this?

RobC · Apr 4, 2016

film was touching film. Probably not wound onto spool properly.

shidareyanagi · Apr 4, 2016

Thank you. I'll be more careful next time!

MattKing · Apr 4, 2016

Welcome to APUG.

You have experienced one of the rights of passage of developing film.

If you haven't done so, try practicing loading the reel with a discarded roll of film. First with your eyes open, then with them closed, then in the dark.

Pay close attention to how the film feels and sounds as it loads correctly, and when it goes wrong.

And most important - have fun!

Sirius Glass · Apr 4, 2016

Welcome to APUG

If the reel continue to be a problem, then get Hewes stainless steel reels.

jvo · Apr 4, 2016

MattKing said:
Welcome to APUG.

You have experienced one of the rights of passage of developing film.

If you haven't done so, try practicing loading the reel with a discarded roll of film. First with your eyes open, then with them closed, then in the dark.

Pay close attention to how the film feels and sounds as it loads correctly, and when it goes wrong.

And most important - have fun!

yeh - what he said! how it "feels" is the key - goes on the reel easily... and welcome to apug.

jvo

Gerald C Koch · Apr 4, 2016

There is an easy and simple test to prevent this problem from happening. There should be some slack felt when you grab the end of the film on the reel and gently pull and push it. If it won't move the it has kinked somewhere. Try this when you practice loading in the light.

The Hewes reels are very nice and more sturdy than cheaper ones. But they are still reels and subject to the same loading problems that others have.

To prevent kinking when loading the film it should be cupped slightly as it is eased onto the reel. As the old joke goes, "How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, practice, practice."

In the past people interested in photography bought how-to books. They usually contained a pictorial on how to load SS reels. It is an easy process that unfortunately is harder to explain in words.

mooseontheloose · Apr 4, 2016

That doesn't look like film touching itself to me. The emulsion wouldn't be gone entirely, it just wouldn't have developed.

There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to load stainless steel reels - good way to see if that's what the problem is.

bence8810 · Apr 5, 2016

I had the exact same white patches showing when I loaded a longer than normal 135 roll and the end didn't fit into the reel. I just rolled it around the reel and loaded into the tank. I assumed it was touching something and the developer couldn't get to it but Never worked on identifying the cause as I know it won't happen again. I am careful now to load my film and turn the crank exactly as many times as I should for a 36 frame roll. The joy of hand loading film...

Ben

RobC · Apr 5, 2016

mooseontheloose said:
That doesn't look like film touching itself to me. The emulsion wouldn't be gone entirely, it just wouldn't have developed.

There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to load stainless steel reels - good way to see if that's what the problem is.

or fixed so would be as dense as unexposed film which would be dense on a scanner and show as white.

Xmas · Apr 5, 2016

RobC said:
or fixed so would be as dense as unexposed film which would be dense on a scanner and show as white.

My unexposed film comes out as clear base like rebates...
It would be dark like shadows if scanned and presented as positive.
The white splurge has density on the negative, more than dmax.
But some of the surround to splurge has a dark area.
It would be nice if we could see the rebates and better in a negative format?
Could we see a smart phone photo of negative strip in front of table lamp shade.

RobC · Apr 5, 2016

unexposed will come out clear because its fixed. But it won't be fixed if film is touching just like it wasn't developed.

Xmas · Apr 5, 2016

RobC said:
unexposed will come out clear because its fixed. But it won't be fixed if film is touching just like it wasn't developed.

I accept that but I'd still like to see the negative in front of table lamp.
I've never managed touching in frame maybe cause I don't use stainless reels.

Development Problem

Moderator

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency