Developing two dufferent films together in Rodinal.

[marciofs]

Checked in the massive def. chart list, I found I can develop:

HP5 1+100 for 16min.

And

Delta 100 1+100 for 18min.

Both with Rodinal at 20°c.


My question is if it would cause any harm if I develop them together, meaning in the same tank, for 17min.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

No. I do it all the time. Just keep close watch on your timer. Pull the the Delta 100 roll out 2 minutes earlier out of the developer into the stop bath. You'll need multiple tanks of course. But do it in the dark until the film is in the fixer for at least a minute.

 

[marciofs]

No. I do it all the time. Just keep close watch on your timer. Pull the the Delta 100 roll out 2 minutes earlier out of the developer into the stop bath. You'll need multiple tanks of course. But do it in the dark until the film is in the fixer for at least a minute.

Great!
Thanks a lot.

 

[MattKing]

No. I do it all the time. Just keep close watch on your timer. Pull the the Delta 100 roll out 2 minutes earlier out of the developer into the stop bath. You'll need multiple tanks of course. But do it in the dark until the film is in the fixer for at least a minute.

I think that this is reversed - the Delta 100 should be in longer.

That being said, I think the difference between 16, 17 and 18 minutes of development is minimal - 17 minutes for both should be fine.

Assuming, of course, that you have lighting conditions of mixed or average contrast.

My opinion would be more cautious if we were talking about development times of 6, 7 and 8 minutes.

 

[marciofs]

I think that this is reversed - the Delta 100 should be in longer.

That being said, I think the difference between 16, 17 and 18 minutes of development is minimal - 17 minutes for both should be fine.

Assuming, of course, that you have lighting conditions of mixed or average contrast.

My opinion would be more cautious if we were talking about development times of 6, 7 and 8 minutes.

This is what I thought. One min. more and one min. less above 15min will not make a noticeble diference.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Opps. You're right

I think that this is reversed - the Delta 100 should be in longer.

That being said, I think the difference between 16, 17 and 18 minutes of development is minimal - 17 minutes for both should be fine.

Assuming, of course, that you have lighting conditions of mixed or average contrast.

My opinion would be more cautious if we were talking about development times of 6, 7 and 8 minutes.

I misread his original post. But I do process different films together and hold one in stop if the development is only a few minutes apart.

On a side note, I do stand processing where I dilute HC-110 from concentrate 1:100 at 1 hour where I mix films. The cool thing is that the highlights stop developing because the developer is exhausted while the shadow areas keep developing.

 

[pentaxuser]

At 17 mins you are overdeveloping one film by 6 % and under-developing the other by the same percentage. I'd be surprised if such a small percentage over or under makes a significant difference.

17 mins sounds fine to me

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

I do not see a problem. Load the films on dry reels and develop one type of film, rinse the tank and load the other reels. It is not like it takes hours to develop film, only a few minutes.

 

[Hilo]

It is like the others say here: it won't make much difference.

But only because of the dilution and it's long developing time. That would be the essential question for me. Why this dilution? Is it something you've come to after developing many films and printing many images from these films? And you're happy with what you see?

Or is it just an idea because of reading charts?

 

[marciofs]

It is like the others say here: it won't make much difference.

But only because of the dilution and it's long developing time. That would be the essential question for me. Why this dilution? Is it something you've come to after developing many films and printing many images from these films? And you're happy with what you see?

Or is it just an idea because of reading charts?

I always dilute to 1+50. But these two films are the last ones of a total of 8 rolls I had work so far, and I feel tired now to develop one by one, so I wan't finish both last ones fast.

Also for the experiment to try something new too. I want see how it looks diluted to 1+100. I guess it will have less contrast.

 

[marciofs]

I misread his original post. But I do process different films together and hold one in stop if the development is only a few minutes apart.

On a side note, I do stand processing where I dilute HC-110 from concentrate 1:100 at 1 hour where I mix films. The cool thing is that the highlights stop developing because the developer is exhausted while the shadow areas keep developing.

But stand processing makes the the frames uneven, I guess because the button will be more cncentrate than the top due to lack og agitation. Right? How you deal with it? Or is there a way to avoid it?

I am talking here about 120 size.

 

[zanxion72]

Yes, stand development might cause this mostly due to dissolution of chemicals from the film that are not driven away from the emulsion and dispersed into the development solution due to lack of agitation. The degree of unevenness varies with film brands and developers.
You can avoid this with a semistand. Also, for 120 films make sure that the surface of the developer is a lot higher than the top of the reel in the tank.

 

[Hilo]

I always dilute to 1+50. But these two films are the last ones of a total of 8 rolls I had work so far, and I feel tired now to develop one by one, so I wan't finish both last ones fast.

Also for the experiment to try something new too. I want see how it looks diluted to 1+100. I guess it will have less contrast.

Well, if the films you still need to develop have little importance to you, I could understand it. Otherwise, I think to experiment with film developing using important exposed film is not a good idea . . . Maybe that's just me . . .

 

[Xmas]

I use Rodinal 1:100 stand for 60 mins at 20C for any mono film, in 3,5 or 8 x Patterson tanks.

Sometimes mixing 120 and 35mm.

Never have a problem yet in 40 years or so...

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Nor do I.

 

[marciofs]

I use Rodinal 1:100 stand for 60 mins at 20C for any mono film, in 3,5 or 8 x Patterson tanks.

Sometimes mixing 120 and 35mm.

Never have a problem yet in 40 years or so...

Than it would be a good solution for me related to the previous topic I open, about Diafine, in order to develop more than 1 or 2 rolls of different films all together and save time.

I did a quick research and I found a page where someone tells he never got uneven result even with completly stand development. The secret, as he says, is to agitate less and very soft to not over active the concentrate solution on the button of the tank when stand, as far as I could understand.

 

[Xmas]

Than it would be a good solution for me related to the previous topic I open, about Diafine, in order to develop more than 1 or 2 rolls of different films all together and save time.

I did a quick research and I found a page where someone tells he never got uneven result even with completly stand development. The secret, as he says, is to agitate less and very soft to not over active the concentrate solution on the button of the tank when stand, as far as I could understand.

Ok More exactly I invert 6 times after pouring in the rodinal which has lots of air space above it cause I only just cover the top reel, to allow a vortex to clear bubbles.
Then I set kitchen or smart phone timer and post nasty posts on APUG until timer rings for 60 minutes...

It is full stand.

It is easy to say something does not work on the web if you have never tried it.

You get close to full speed and low contrast but can blow high lights too even with Tx or HP5.

It is rare that I use microphen (ID-68 actually) or D76d stock.

 

[railwayman3]

I remember, about 10-15 years ago, a "professional" C41 lab here in the UK who would only accept Kodak C41 films, for the stated reason that residual chemicals from the emulsions of other C41 brands might upset the fine balance of their processing chemicals ! Seemed like a bit of advertising bull ?

(I stopped using them when they lost four of my films, but that's another story.....)

 

[marciofs]

Ok More exactly I invert 6 times after pouring in the rodinal which has lots of air space above it cause I only just cover the top reel, to allow a vortex to clear bubbles.
Then I set kitchen or smart phone timer and post nasty posts on APUG until timer rings for 60 minutes...

It is full stand.

It is easy to say something does not work on the web if you have never tried it.

You get close to full speed and low contrast but can blow high lights too even with Tx or HP5.

It is rare that I use microphen (ID-68 actually) or D76d stock.

I will experiment.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I do not see a problem. Load the films on dry reels and develop one type of film, rinse the tank and load the other reels. It is not like it takes hours to develop film, only a few minutes.

OR using Rollo Pyro with 7 minutes for Solution A, 5 minutes for Solution B and reusing Solution A for 2 minutes, water for stop bath and TF4 or TF5 for hypo I can mix any black & white films never worrying about time-temperature variations. Solution B develops until the absorbed Solution A is in the film and then stops. Every film developed for the correct ISO.