No. I do it all the time. Just keep close watch on your timer. Pull the the Delta 100 roll out 2 minutes earlier out of the developer into the stop bath. You'll need multiple tanks of course. But do it in the dark until the film is in the fixer for at least a minute.
No. I do it all the time. Just keep close watch on your timer. Pull the the Delta 100 roll out 2 minutes earlier out of the developer into the stop bath. You'll need multiple tanks of course. But do it in the dark until the film is in the fixer for at least a minute.
I think that this is reversed - the Delta 100 should be in longer.
That being said, I think the difference between 16, 17 and 18 minutes of development is minimal - 17 minutes for both should be fine.
Assuming, of course, that you have lighting conditions of mixed or average contrast.
My opinion would be more cautious if we were talking about development times of 6, 7 and 8 minutes.
I think that this is reversed - the Delta 100 should be in longer.
That being said, I think the difference between 16, 17 and 18 minutes of development is minimal - 17 minutes for both should be fine.
Assuming, of course, that you have lighting conditions of mixed or average contrast.
My opinion would be more cautious if we were talking about development times of 6, 7 and 8 minutes.
It is like the others say here: it won't make much difference.
But only because of the dilution and it's long developing time. That would be the essential question for me. Why this dilution? Is it something you've come to after developing many films and printing many images from these films? And you're happy with what you see?
Or is it just an idea because of reading charts?
I misread his original post. But I do process different films together and hold one in stop if the development is only a few minutes apart.
On a side note, I do stand processing where I dilute HC-110 from concentrate 1:100 at 1 hour where I mix films. The cool thing is that the highlights stop developing because the developer is exhausted while the shadow areas keep developing.
I always dilute to 1+50. But these two films are the last ones of a total of 8 rolls I had work so far, and I feel tired now to develop one by one, so I wan't finish both last ones fast.
Also for the experiment to try something new too. I want see how it looks diluted to 1+100. I guess it will have less contrast.
I use Rodinal 1:100 stand for 60 mins at 20C for any mono film, in 3,5 or 8 x Patterson tanks.
Sometimes mixing 120 and 35mm.
Never have a problem yet in 40 years or so...
Than it would be a good solution for me related to the previous topic I open, about Diafine, in order to develop more than 1 or 2 rolls of different films all together and save time.
I did a quick research and I found a page where someone tells he never got uneven result even with completly stand development. The secret, as he says, is to agitate less and very soft to not over active the concentrate solution on the button of the tank when stand, as far as I could understand.
Ok More exactly I invert 6 times after pouring in the rodinal which has lots of air space above it cause I only just cover the top reel, to allow a vortex to clear bubbles.
Then I set kitchen or smart phone timer and post nasty posts on APUG until timer rings for 60 minutes...
It is full stand.
It is easy to say something does not work on the web if you have never tried it.
You get close to full speed and low contrast but can blow high lights too even with Tx or HP5.
It is rare that I use microphen (ID-68 actually) or D76d stock.
I do not see a problem. Load the films on dry reels and develop one type of film, rinse the tank and load the other reels. It is not like it takes hours to develop film, only a few minutes.
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