Developing Tubes

[Max]

Since J&C will be carrying these, we should support our sponsor and order from them.

 

[jandc]

Mike has informed me that the tubes are in the mail to us. They should be available for shipment next week. They are on the web site now.

 

[sanking]

Mike has informed me that the tubes are in the mail to us. They should be available for shipment next week. They are on the web site now.

In a private email Mike mentioned that the tubes are available in 30" length. Is this correct?

Sandy

 

[jandc]

In a private email Mike mentioned that the tubes are available in 30" length. Is this correct?

Sandy

That is not what is being shipped to us at the moment. I will have to talk to Mike about it as this is the first I've heard.

 

[mikepry]

Sandy,
The tubes are available from the manufacturer in the longer length. There is a substantial minimum order and if there are enough people to purchase them we can arrange that. I believe there would be a minimum of 48. I can check when I get back home if you want.

 

[sanking]

Sandy,
The tubes are available from the manufacturer in the longer length. There is a substantial minimum order and if there are enough people to purchase them we can arrange that. I believe there would be a minimum of 48. I can check when I get back home if you want.

Mike,

Thanks for the information. I am definitely interested in some of this length for 7X17" film, and they should also work for 8X20. I don't know what kind of plastic the tubes are made of but I think it should be possible to cut them down to the right length for 7X17 or 8X10 film and glue the end cap back on.

Thanks for sending me one of the tubes for testing. I think these tubes are really great. They are light, well-constructed, and every bit as good as BTZS tubes that were made in this size, and which cost three of five times as much. I managed to develop two 6.5X8.5" sheets in one of the drums and the negatives came out super I especialy like the small indentations that are in the wall of the tube as this helps the developer circulate freely around the back. All in all the tubes are really great and I congratulate you for the find because it brings a great product to the market at a very attractive price.

Sandy

 

[donbga]

Tube question

The film is loaded in the dark into the tube.

So is fiberglass screen required to line the interiror of the tube to process multiple sheets smaller than 8x10? Looking at the dimensions I would guess 4 - 4x5 sheets or 2 - 5x7 sheets may be processed simultaneously.

Thanks,

Don Bryant

 

[photomc]

See if I understand, the 1st cap contains the developer (aprox. 375 ml) - you load the film(s) into the tube in the dark, then screw the tube into the cap with developer, then lay on it's side in water bath (?) and rotate at an interval - could you fill the tube for stand development? Then lights off again, dumped the developer, add stop or go directly to fix - same amount - 375ml - right? Then lights on after fix is added and after x time in fix, ready for wash. Is that about it. Has anyone measured the amount required to fill the tube? Sounds like it might be much easier than some of the other tanks. Volume not much of an issue since I make up at least 1200 ml developer for tray development.

 

[sanking]

So is fiberglass screen required to line the interiror of the tube to process multiple sheets smaller than 8x10? Looking at the dimensions I would guess 4 - 4x5 sheets or 2 - 5x7 sheets may be processed simultaneously.

Thanks,

Don Bryant

Well, I was able to process two 6.5X8.5" negatives at a time with no fiberglass screen. One of the negatives protruded about an inch outside of the tube but fit within the tube + cap. As has been indicated in previous posts the inside of the tubes are indented or grooved in such a way that the developer can flow easily around the back.

I am not sure how one would separate film, say four sheets of 4X5, in such a way as to keep them from flopping over one another, but I am sure some enterprising mind on the list will put his/her mind to the job and find a solution.

Sandy

 

[Jorge]

See if I understand, the 1st cap contains the developer (aprox. 375 ml) - you load the film(s) into the tube in the dark, then screw the tube into the cap with developer, then lay on it's side in water bath (?) and rotate at an interval - could you fill the tube for stand development? Then lights off again, dumped the developer, add stop or go directly to fix - same amount - 375ml - right? Then lights on after fix is added and after x time in fix, ready for wash. Is that about it. Has anyone measured the amount required to fill the tube? Sounds like it might be much easier than some of the other tanks. Volume not much of an issue since I make up at least 1200 ml developer for tray development.

I have measured the amount the caps hold and it is 450 ml to fill just under the threads. If I could find them for the 12x20 I would, maybe the guys selling them are willing to make some, since they were willing to make them in black.

 

[Francesco]

See if I understand, the 1st cap contains the developer (aprox. 375 ml) - you load the film(s) into the tube in the dark, then screw the tube into the cap with developer, then lay on it's side in water bath (?) and rotate at an interval - could you fill the tube for stand development? Then lights off again, dumped the developer, add stop or go directly to fix - same amount - 375ml - right? Then lights on after fix is added and after x time in fix, ready for wash. Is that about it. Has anyone measured the amount required to fill the tube? Sounds like it might be much easier than some of the other tanks. Volume not much of an issue since I make up at least 1200 ml developer for tray development.

About 1.3 to 1.5 L should fill the tube enough to cover an 8x10 sheet of film for stand development procedures. I use about 1.44 L with my tubes and Pyrcoat HD.

 

[photomc]

About 1.3 to 1.5 L should fill the tube enough to cover an 8x10 sheet of film for stand development procedures. I use about 1.44 L with my tubes and Pyrcoat HD.

Thanks Francesco, that was the number I was hoping to hear..using either Rodinal 1:100 or Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 the volumes are very economical IMO.

 

[c6h6o3]

I haven't seen any pictures so I'm curious as to how you would use these things. You'd obviously have to load the tubes in the dark, but wouldn't you have to put the developer in them in the dark too? Seems like a logistical problem, and then what about stop, fix, etc? Anyone care to share their techniques? Thanks!

Isaac

Here's how I do mine: First, I load the film using fiberglass screen as backing.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

I use the lid from a Paterson rollfilm tank as a funnel through which to pour.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Once this lid covers the mouth of the tube, I can pour with my green inspection light on with total impunity. After pouring in the developer, I screw the cap on tightly, turn on the room lights and walk away. I come back at 25%, 50% and 75% of the development time for 10 seconds of gentle agitation. In between agitation cycles I stand the tube on it's end, just like you see it here (but with the cap on). This works perfectly and my times are very precise because I can pour so fast.

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Hope this helps.

 

[matt miller]

Has anyone noticed any scratches/rub marks on the base side of the film from using these tubes? I believe that I'm getting them when I pull the film out of the tube to put it in the stop bath. I think the film is sometimes stuck to the ridges & pulling it out is putting marks on the base. It's shown up in printing on one neg so far. Anyone else getting this?

 

[Francesco]

Matt, this happened to me a lot prior to using fiberglass mesh screens. The screens make removing the film safer and easier.

 

[matt miller]

Francesco,

Do you ever see evidence of the screens in areas of continuous tone, like skies, etc? I've used vinyl screens for some but have noticed a faint screen pattern on some of my prints. I don't know why this would happen though.

 

[Francesco]

Matt, never noticed any marks - all negatives come out clean and damage free. Perhaps this is a result of using vinyl screens as opposed to fiberglass ones?

 

[matt miller]

Could be. I'll get some fiberglass screens & try them out. Thanks.

 

[c6h6o3]

Has anyone noticed any scratches/rub marks on the base side of the film from using these tubes? I believe that I'm getting them when I pull the film out of the tube to put it in the stop bath. I think the film is sometimes stuck to the ridges & pulling it out is putting marks on the base. It's shown up in printing on one neg so far. Anyone else getting this?

That's why I use the fiberglass screen. The base side of the film is not rubbing against anything when I pull it out by grabbing the screen.

 

[mikepry]

I've never noticed any marks on my negs (8/10, 5/7) w/o the screens although the use of the screen doesn't sound like a bad idea. I never take out the film until completion. If I'm processesing multiple sheets at different dev. times I'll have a small tub to the side with stop bath and plunge the tube in it's entirety into the stop letting it fill and then cap it and continue on with the development of the other tubes in the developer. It has servrd me well. If I'm doing only one sheet I never take it out to put it in stop bath. I simply leave it in the tube. As far as chemistry goes...I have used as little as 200ml of dev. and it seemed to work good but I settled on 250ml and it's more than enough for non-stand dev.