That is really nice!
Borut Peterlin suggested using 1+19 solution and developing for 45 seconds if you don't have film developer available, so clearly underdeveloping the paper.
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Never heard of him, but I'm always willing to check out recommended links and videos, so thanks.Borut is great guy and have lot of videos that I have myself learnt a lot. Plus I like his topshit-style. He really deserves subscribers and more patreons. Not affiliated in any ways with him. https://www.youtube.com/user/borutpeterlin
I get very close by treating it asISO 3.The Ilford’s website says the multigrade rc has iso 3-6 but this may vary. Trial and error is in the game so I’ll give them a go and will see.
I think I also will try caffenol as I’m playing with the thought for a while and I love to experiment.
Thanks for your thoughts!
So is there any real reason for Borut in his video to say that with paper negative exposure there is no point in treating its ISO the same way you would a film negative's ISO? At least if you have the correct ISO then surely you can use it the same way as you would input a film's ISO into a light meter?I get very close by treating it asISO 3.
This makes sense, and when you consider it, helps explain the uncertainty about the paper's "speed".I expose MGIV paper in camera at 3 ASA with a medium yellow filter (or the contrast zero filter from the Ilford MG filter pack) and develop the paper in Dektol diluted 1-3 or 1-4 for 45-60 seconds. Using the filter allows me to use only the low contrast layer of the paper, which gives a much more film-like contrast and tonality, and so you don’t have to worry as much about how to develop the paper since you’re already managing contrast issues.
which gives a much more film-like contrast and tonality
But doesn't this "spoil" the look of the paper negative?
This is awesome! Congrats!Ha, there was one shot that had something in focus and some skintones preserved. No idea how this developed, maybe by hunch. This had most probably two strobes at full power. I'm a bit confused, but learning is the obvious part in paper negative method
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Thanks! Most of the comments are about iso 3 so it seems a good starting point.I get very close by treating it asISO 3.
Thanks for the idea!I expose MGIV paper in camera at 3 ASA with a medium yellow filter (or the contrast zero filter from the Ilford MG filter pack) and develop the paper in Dektol diluted 1-3 or 1-4 for 45-60 seconds. Using the filter allows me to use only the low contrast layer of the paper, which gives a much more film-like contrast and tonality, and so you don’t have to worry as much about how to develop the paper since you’re already managing contrast issues.
This is awesome! Congrats!
Time to shift to spontaneity! =)Thanks. Although it's quite controversial to get positive feedback only from quick test shots but nothing from "serious" onesMaybe I should shoot everything carelessly and just for a test?
And thanks from me too to everyone sharing their tips and knowledge!
These two shots are very nice, the plant is a beauty. I get a set of Ilford MG filter and as Paul Barden suggested will use the grade zero. It’s even quite easy to stick it right behind the pinhole from inside the camera.I tried using yellow filter on camera and it seems to help developing; highlights develop much much slower.
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Hey vedostuu, your DIY Mamiya RB67 filmback "might" have "some" lightleaks. But hey, the focus plane is probably quite close? (had to shoot this with aperture fully open so landscapes should be bit easier) :
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These two shots are very nice, the plant is a beauty. I get a set of Ilford MG filter and as Paul Barden suggested will use the grade zero. It’s even quite easy to stick it right behind the pinhole from inside the camera.
Sorry that I haven't get back to you earlier. I made a few test shots but all was unusable due to the contrast was super high.I expose MGIV paper in camera at 3 ASA with a medium yellow filter (or the contrast zero filter from the Ilford MG filter pack) and develop the paper in Dektol diluted 1-3 or 1-4 for 45-60 seconds. Using the filter allows me to use only the low contrast layer of the paper, which gives a much more film-like contrast and tonality, and so you don’t have to worry as much about how to develop the paper since you’re already managing contrast issues.
I made a few test shots but all was unusable due to the contrast was super high.
Oh, then it’s more of a gamble than photography.I think you answered to your questionRemember that paper f-stop range isn't as good as film. The fence + sky is correctly exposed so you then should just choose which part to keep.
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