But do you get fully consistent results, from when you start, to when you mix fresh?
Developer activity changes gradually - thus the usefulness of factorial development for longer sessions.
But do you get fully consistent results, from when you start, to when you mix fresh?
Developer activity changes gradually - thus the usefulness of factorial development for longer sessions.
Yes. I am pretty conservative about how many prints I run through the developer. My prints do not become visibly underdeveloped over the course of a session.
Yes.... at a certain point IMO the cost of 16x20 or 20x24 paper outweighs the cost of fresh developer.
Agreed, but it is a question of consistency, not individual suitability.
If you use your developer one shot, it isn't an issue.
But if you aren't doing that, and you are printing more than one copy of a print - say an edition of five - than extending the time can help ensure consistency, as can using factorial development.
Do you make multiple identical prints during a session? It is in that situation that one tends to see inconsistent results - even if none of them would be described as "underdeveloped".
But if you aren't doing that, and you are printing more than one copy of a print - say an edition of five - than extending the time can help ensure consistency, as can using factorial development.
If you get visibly inconsistent results during the course of a printing session, I suggest you run fewer prints through your developer before replacing it.
This appears to be the crux of the issue. How can I save a few cents. It is something that comes up regularly on Photrio in all sorts of contexts. What is the cheapest [fill in the blank]? I read about and considered factorial development a long time ago. Why screw with it? If you can see that your print is not fully developed, why not just use fresh developer? Better yet, why not use fresh developer before you can see your print is not fully developed. Developer is cheap.Wouldn't it be cheaper to use factorial development instead?
This appears to be the crux of the issue. How can I save a few cents. It is something that comes up regularly on Photrio in all sorts of contexts. What is the cheapest [fill in the blank]? I read about and considered factorial development a long time ago. Why screw with it? If you can see that your print is not fully developed, why not just use fresh developer? Better yet, why not use fresh developer before you can see your print is not fully developed. Developer is cheap.
This appears to be the crux of the issue. How can I save a few cents. It is something that comes up regularly on Photrio in all sorts of contexts. What is the cheapest [fill in the blank]? I read about and considered factorial development a long time ago. Why screw with it? If you can see that your print is not fully developed, why not just use fresh developer? Better yet, why not use fresh developer before you can see your print is not fully developed. Developer is cheap.
Isn't it the avoidance of the waste of an otherwise good developer that can produce the same indistinguishable of prints by increasing the development time?
If you really want to save money AND get completely consistent results each time using fresh chemicals use tubes. WIN-WIN. Oh, I forgot, you save space too. WIN-WIN-WIN.
I certainly have. As well as crystals forming in the bottom of the concentrate container after a while.
How many prints do you run through "otherwise good developer"? How long do you extend factorial development? Or is this just a thought experiment for you?
If you get visibly inconsistent results during the course of a printing session, I suggest you run fewer prints through your developer before replacing it.
I usually base my developer life on the data sheet. I regularly use eco-Pro developer and the sheet states 60-100 8x10 sheets at 1+9. I usually change it when I hit 50 sheets or less, depending on the length of the session. I always develop my prints for 3 minutes and have never run into any inconsistencies except for variables such as dodging and burning which might not be precisely repeatable.If you start out by using a longer (but still within specified range), standard developing time, you will find that you will be much less likely to encounter any visible inconsistencies through a moderate print run. That is the advantage of using longer times to start with.
The disadvantage, of course, is that the longer times increase the time required and/or decrease throughput, which in a commercial environment decreases profit. Which is why higher volume, for profit printers use very short times, and either use developer one shot, or they use replenishment and carefully monitor results.
And that is why manufacturers like Ilford specify ranges of times, because the needs and preferences of users vary.
Within a reasonable range and consistent with the normal developer capacity recommendations, you have a choice of two options, both of which will lead to essentially the same results:
1) maintain the shorter minimum times, and replace the developer more frequently; or
2) use a longer standard time, and replace the developer less frequently.
The real challenge, and this applies to both options, is to know when to replace the developer. That is where factorial development helps you keep a handle on things, because it gives you some live data to base your decisions on.
A used developer will generate the same print as an unused, sometimes with a longer dev time.
Extending dev time will never compensate for depletion.
Back to the OP's original question about developing time, here's an easy experiment. I will assume you have been able to make a print you like. Using that exposure, develop the print for 2 minutes. Now, make another--same exposure time--and develop for 4 minutes. Then a third, developed for 6 minutes. After fixing, washing and drying, compare the print side by side in even light (not bright sunlight!). Is there a difference in the blacks between them? Is there a difference in the whites? If there is no difference, you're good to develop all your prints for the rest of your life at 2-4 minutes and never have to think about it again. If the 3-minute blacks look a little deeper, then 3-minutes is your time. If the in 4-minute print, the whites seem a tad dingy, you know that was too long in the developer and stay with a shorter time.
What is the exposure time, enlarger head height, lens & aperture for such a test? Or is it two tests, one for fog and one for max black? Same question about exposure, though.That's one way, but a much more accurate test only takes two 8x10 sheets of paper -- each cut into eight strips, and developing each strip for a different time (1m, 2m, 3m...). One set is used to test for maximum processing time due to fog, the other is used to test for minimum processing time to reach maximum black.
Then you know exactly how wide your window is, and can choose accordingly.
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