Developing paper in film developer?

[Aggie]

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[blansky]

Right, get your leather chaps and nipple clamps out of storage.

San Francisco at it finest. But don't get me wrong, as Eric said, there's nothing wrong with that.

Michael McBlane

 

[fingel]

Just wanted to let eveyone know that I tried it last night (not the leather chaps and nipple clamps) and it worked pretty good. It did take about 15 min for it to develop, but it also already had 4 sheets of 8x10 film through it too. I exposed AZO grade 2 for 2 seconds and then developed in partially used Rodinal 1:25. Since I was using hangers for the film, I loaded the AZO into a film hanger and processed that way-which I don't think I would want to do again-but I didn't want to have to set everything up just to run 1 sheet of paper. Anyway, I would say that the experiment was a sucess. Very sharp print, with very black blacks, not the blue tint that you get with some paper developers and AZO. I think I would try it again.

 

[Aggie]

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[Lex Jenkins]

From my old "The Manual of Photography" (formerly "The Ilford Manual of Photography")...

ID-36 MQ universal developer for films and papers:

3g metol

50g sodium sulfite

12.5g hydroquinone

72g sodium carbonate

0.75g potassium bromide

1 liter water to make

For films:

Dish - Dilute 1:3 with water.
Tank - Dilute 1:7

For contact paper:
Dilute 1:1

For enlarging papers:
Dilute 1:3

And ID-62 PQ universal developer:

50g sodium sulfite

60g sodium carbonate

12g hydroquinone

0.5g phenidone

2g potassium bromide

20ml IBT restrainer

1 liter water to make

Same dilutions as for the MQ developer. The Manual suggests some times for this developer, which may apply to the MQ version as well: 75 seconds to 3-3/4 minutes at 1:3 for dish development; 3-7.5 minutes at 1:7 for tank development.

Judging from the ingredients listed for various other traditional Ilford developers and recalling a bit about the then-available films, these universal developers would probably deliver acceptable results with slower, finer grain films using more traditional emulsions such as Plus-X, FP4+, Efke, Foma and similar films.

Also, what distinguishes most traditional paper developers from most traditional film developers in this manual is the addition of sodium carbonate and potassium bromide to the paper developers (or to film developers intended for high acutance, high contrast, or other specialty purposes).

 

[Ole]

I used to print slides onto Kodak Graphical Line film which I then developed in Neutol. It gave very nice negatives...

 

[fingel]

Hey everyone,
I thought I would post an update. I printed a batch of contact prints on AZO using Rodinal 1:10 in a tray and I am most impressed with the results. (not of the photos but the developer) One tray full (about 1000ml total soup) was still active long after I was ready to go to bed. Once the soup got sort of a funky brownish color with grains of silver floating in it, it seemed to work even better. An added bonus of the brownish color, I could turn on the overhead lights while it was at the bottom of the tray, and it wouldn't effect the print at all.
Prints came out, very sharp and very black blacks. When I get them flattened out I will offer a couple in the print exchange gallery if anyone is interested in seeing a first hand result.

 

[removed account4]

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[StephenT]

Helium replaces Nitrogen for deep dives. It is the Nitrogen that gives one Nitrogen Narcosis and will result in the "bends" upon rapid ascension or ascending from deep dives (you can't carry enough "air" even in twin 80's to spend enough time at 10 foot intervals to prevent the Nitrogen from forming bubbles in your blood stream and getting into your lungs.)

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Usually there is better luck developing film in dilute print developer than the other way around. At one time so-called "universal" developers were common. They were designed for use with film or paper. Kodak developer D-72 was originally intended as a universal developer. Since commercial film developers are more expensive than paper developers their use for paper is rather a waste of money.

 

[kiwivagabond]

I shoot paper more than film....I read recently that using a film developer may help get a less aggressive developer and less contrast with old expired paper. That's why I will try it.....and experiment. I have a huge stash (not a moustache) of expired paper.......and I love to use it.....but sometimes beautiful old paper needs help.

 

[John51]

From this site but I've forgotten who the poster is:

About 1 oz (30ml) HC110 syrup per quart (1 litre) + 1 tbs (15g) washing soda and you'll think
you have Dektol.

Metric quantities in brackets were added by me.

Haven't tried this yet but will do as I'd hardly used my batch of Dektol before it went off.