campy51
Member
definitely a processing issue and not the camera; not enough agitation during development is my guess.I took this shot with a Rolleiflex 2.8C and if you look in the sky you can see shading streaks. Would this most likely be development than camera?
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I will second that. I use enough to cover the reel by a few mm, but leaving some air space to allow the developer to actually slosh around more easily.I found that I needed to have an air space at the top of my tank in order to get enough motion over the full width of the film; obviously from comments here others have found this not needed. Either way, you need to get more true motion. Remember, water will transmit energy through wave action without actually moving much if allowed.
Good point, Dave. As far as agitation regime is concerned I do wonder if more isn't made of this as a problem that is warranted. If you follow the agitation regime specified by the developer's maker then you really can't go wrong. The makers such as Kodak Ilford etc have tested their films exhaustively with developers and get it right in my opinion. I use the Kodak regime when using Xtol and the Ilford regime when using such as ID11 and DDX. Nothing very complicated about either agitation regime and so far (15 years) it has worked every time for meI will second that. I use enough to cover the reel by a few mm, but leaving some air space to allow the developer to actually slosh around more easily.
All these posting are scans, I would look there 1st . People who shoot film need to contact print a proof sheet, that's the only way you will know what's going on.
My point is that if there's crud on the scanner glass that's IMHO a more likely culprit than some agitation issue. And yes you should be able to see on a light table. A real proof sheet will teach you how to properly expose film. I'm old school not looking for a debate . What ever works for you .Not sure what you mean here. Scanning is a recording of the negative density. I bet I could see the mottling and density changes in the OP's negative simply viewing on a light table. What is the process which makes a silver contact print show information about density- the issue here- that other imaging methods that cannot show?
A freshly cleaned scanner and one that is kept clean will show minor variances in negative densities that do not show on a properly exposed and developed negative contact printed at paper black. Those variances on contact prints that do not show well are in the deep shadows and occasionally bright highlights.My point is that if there's crud on the scanner glass that's IMHO a more likely culprit than some agitation issue.
My point is that if there's crud on the scanner glass that's IMHO a more likely culprit than some agitation issue. And yes you should be able to see on a light table. A real proof sheet will teach you how to properly expose film. I'm old school not looking for a debate . What ever works for you .
A negative exposed and developed to print at paper black will scan with the deepest black between 0 and 10 and the brightest highlights between 240 and 255 (image histogram) without any modifications in scanner software (scanner raw).
I had been taught to make a step tablet for each negative to determine the correct exposure for that negative. When I took such negatives to The Darkroom, San Carlos for printing they came back awful. The lab said they printed at paper black.Not sure I agree that there is a simple correlation between paper black and white points and scanner black and white points.
That makes sense. !The marks look like bromide drag. It sometimes happens with short or long development cycles. Most commonly with low or medium speed films in developers with brief times. Pre-washing helps, as does the avoidance of developer surges. It also occurs in stand development, which is why people adopt a semi-stand method.
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