Developing Jessops R100 in Ilfotec DDX or Paranol S

Tom Cross · Apr 12, 2016

Does anyone know the development time (or how to calculate it) of Jessops R100 B&W using either Paranol S or Ilfotec DDX?

I only have two rolls and don't want to buy something specially.

Many thanks,
Tom.

Anon Ymous · Apr 12, 2016

IIRC, Jessops R100 was rebranded EFKE R100.

Tom Cross · Apr 12, 2016

Anon Ymous said:
IIRC, Jessops R100 was rebranded EFKE R100.

Thanks! I've managed to look that up - should be ok with DDX.

Kevin Caulfield · Apr 12, 2016

If in doubt, stand development is your friend.

Tom Cross · Apr 12, 2016

Kevin Caulfield said:
If in doubt, stand development is your friend.

My Dad suggested that, I had not heard of it. He said leave it for an hour and hardly any agitation

Kevin Caulfield · Apr 12, 2016

Tom Cross said:
My Dad suggested that, I had not heard of it. He said leave it for an hour and hardly any agitation

Yeah, maybe even closer to two hours. Ninety minutes should be fine.

Ian Grant · Apr 12, 2016

Jessops R100 is EFKE R50, the speed in the R50 name is the Tungsten ISO not the daylight sped which is higher

Anon Ymous said:
IIRC, Jessops R100 was rebranded EFKE R100.

No Jessops R100 was in fact re-branded EFKE R50 the 50 being the Tungsten speed not the Daylight ISO.

You won't be far off using DDX and the FP4+ time, shoot at the recommended 100 ISO. I've used a lot of EFKE film over the years and the results are excellent, it's a soft emulsion keep all your process temperatures tigh including washing to within +/- 1ºC of 20ºC

Ian

Tom Cross · Apr 13, 2016

Developed it tonight - came out fine except for dark (light) edges to both sides of the negative evenly throughout the roll. It was also it bit speckly throughout. Not sure what caused that.

Tom Cross · Apr 13, 2016

Here is a pic of the negative

Ian Grant · Apr 14, 2016

That's just the age deterioration caused by storing. There no way around that.

Ian

Tom Cross · Apr 14, 2016

That's a relief! I thought it was me!

Tom Cross · Apr 14, 2016

A better example in this Dropbox folder. Looking in detail, it does look like the film rather than me!

Ian Grant · Apr 14, 2016

Tom Cross said:
A better example in this Dropbox folder. Looking in detail, it does look like the film rather than me!

Definitely the film, I see this all the time with old glass plates, and the occasional roll of old expired film I'm asked to process

Ian

pdeeh · Apr 14, 2016

I bought a few rolls of R100 a couple of years ago and every one looked exactly like this.

as Ian says, age

Tom Cross · Apr 14, 2016

Thanks for looking Ian! I was concerned it was me (I loaded the film in broad daylight!).

Tom Cross · Apr 14, 2016

pdeeh said:
I bought a few rolls of R100 a couple of years ago and every one looked exactly like this.

as Ian says, age

It obviously doesn't like being kept for a long time! I half thought it might be alright, as it was in a foil pack and box and had been kept in a dark loft since at least 1995. It was a good practice for loading 120 film into the spiral though, it went in quite smoothly.

Xmas · Apr 18, 2016

Tom Cross said:
It obviously doesn't like being kept for a long time! I half thought it might be alright, as it was in a foil pack and box and had been kept in a dark loft since at least 1995. It was a good practice for loading 120 film into the spiral though, it went in quite smoothly.

A loft unless insulated has big temperature and humidity swings, and is the last place for storage of film or cameras.

Tom Cross · Apr 19, 2016

Xmas said:
A loft unless insulated has big temperature and humidity swings, and is the last place for storage of film or cameras.

Thanks Xmas, I didn't fully explain, but the point of the exercise was practice loading 120 film into a spiral. I thought I'd use this instead of potentially wasting new film. Any images produced by it was always going to be a bonus!

Xmas · Apr 19, 2016

Tom Cross said:
Thanks Xmas, I didn't fully explain, but the point of the exercise was practice loading 120 film into a spiral. I thought I'd use this instead of potentially wasting new film. Any images produced by it was always going to be a bonus!

Ok but I'm still using film from last century and only have problems with a higher base fog level.
You might have been ok with better storage.
Efke did warn about acid stop and recommended hardened stop bath or fixer.
120 is well difficult to load, good to practice.

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 19, 2016

Xmas said:
120 is well difficult to load, good to practice.

I haven't found loading 120 in my old 3-reel Paterson difficult at all.
Last week Juliano gave me a roll of Ilford HP4 (45-50 years old?) to develop.
Film was very curly, still load fine.
Pictures were very foggy.

Tom Cross · Apr 19, 2016

I found it surprisingly easy, and even easier after changing hands (initially feeding with my right hand - im right handed). Biggest thing to get used to is working blind!

Xmas · Apr 19, 2016

Ricardo Miranda said:
I haven't found loading 120 in my old 3-reel Paterson difficult at all.
Last week Juliano gave me a roll of Ilford HP4 (45-50 years old?) to develop.
Film was very curly, still load fine.
Pictures were very foggy.

HP4 was about 65-75.
120 is easy to get unto spirals but it is difficult to avoid getting marks from stress...
Xfighters in the sky...

Ricardo Miranda · Apr 19, 2016

Xmas said:
but it is difficult to avoid getting marks from stress...

Yeah, I see what you mean.
That film was so foggy that any marks were invisible.

Developing Jessops R100 in Ilfotec DDX or Paranol S

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