developing color in d76

[Dennis S]

I like the effect. Some just don't look that hot but some of the closer ones really get me interested in trying it out. Thanks, just what I needed, another photography mission !!

 

[ampguy]

I like them too!

I'm scanning a roll from the 2nd tank now, still from the same developing session, but after using the D76 straight, I poured it into a 2nd tank and am scanning those now, from the initial results, they're not nearly as contrasty as the first tank of fresh stock undiluted. very interesting.

 

[ampguy]

Hexar AF indoor photos @ f2.8, trying to re-create the high contrast overdeveloped ferry type photos here

with 2 minutes pre-wash, d76 1:1 for 12 minutes at 70 deg. F.

Might try the D76 straight again.

 

[JTepoorten]

Beginner: Desire to develop Colour Film using Ilford Ilfosol 3

Hi,

I have a curiosity in developing C41 135-35mm colour negatives using my Ilford Ilfosol 3 developer :confused:.

Has anyone done anything similar and have an example of results? I would like to know if it is worthwhile doing before I give it a go.

Cheers,

Jas

 

[JTepoorten]

Keen to try

Hi Thomas,

I'm very keen on trying to develop C41 colour film using my Ilford Ilfosol 3 developer at home. I use Ilford Stop Batch and Ilford Rapid Fixer to fix the developed image.

I'm interested in scanning the resulting negatives using my film scanner, and then going to the Harvey Norman Photo Centre to produce the print :confused:.

Is there any chance I can get a summarised procedure, including ratios and temperatures that you used to do the development?

Thanks very much. I'd really appreciate it.

I've developed Fuji Superia 200 in b&w chemistry. It works, but it's really hard to print due to the color of the film base. I think they scan better than they print, which renders it useless for me.
- Thomas

 

[fschifano]

I'm sorry to say guys, that my experience doing this is about the same as both Ron's and Heather's. You can make it kind of work if you're going to scan the negatives, but C-41 film processed this way is never going print well no matter what you do.

Obviously, the negatives are completely useless for RA4 printing since there is no color information. Realize that C-41 films were never designed to have silver as the image bearing medium, but when you process them in standard B&W chemistry, that's exactly what you have. The image that is there is not sharp, very grainy, and very flat. Then there is the orange or yellow or whatever color you want to call it mask. It acts like a safe light filter, giving you very long exposure times in the enlarger. And if I'm not mistaken, there is another layer of collodial silver in the film that does not fix out adding even more to the density. Why anyone wants to do this is beyond me; but hey, it's your time and your money. You want good scannable negatives from C-41 film? Develop the film in C-41 chemistry. You want good scannable B&W negatives? Use a conventional B&W film and process it normally. TMX works really well.

 

[Aurum]

Hi,

I have a curiosity in developing C41 135-35mm colour negatives using my Ilford Ilfosol 3 developer :confused:.

Has anyone done anything similar and have an example of results? I would like to know if it is worthwhile doing before I give it a go.

Cheers,

Jas

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Relayer]

The image that is there is not sharp, very grainy, and very flat.

Kodak MAX400@400 as BW

Klick (Fuji?) 200@200as BW-slide

hint - I'm always use bleach & redevelop for clearing mask. otherwise negatives too dark

 

[removed account4]

Kodak MAX400@400 as BW

Klick (Fuji?) 200@200as BW-slide

hint - I'm always use bleach & redevelop for clearing mask. otherwise negatives too dark

what do you use to bleach your film, ferri ?
i have been processing my color film in coffee
and only get the coffee stain, i'll have to print them on paper ...

 

[JTepoorten]

Thanks. I'll give it a go with the Ilfosol 3 (1+9) for 10 minutes. I couldn't access the attached scan from your linked post. Are you able to attach it here?

 

[JTepoorten]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Thanks. I'll give it a go with the Ilfosol 3 (1+9) for 10 minutes. I couldn't access the attached scan from your linked post. Are you able to attach it here?

 

[Relayer]

what do you use to bleach your film, ferri ?
i have been processing my color film in coffee
and only get the coffee stain, i'll have to print them on paper ...

I use next sequence of extra steps for clearing mask:

1) 3min in next bleach
CuSO4 100g
NaCl 100g
H2SO4 25ml
Water 1l

2) 3min in Potassium Dichromate bleach
Potassium Dichromate 12g
H2SO4 10ml
Water 1l

3) process in any high active developer like D-19 etc

 

[michaelbsc]

Is your H2SO4 concentrate or dilute?

Water to make 1L total or 1L measured?

This rehalogenates the image, clears the orange mask, then redevelopes the image?

 

[removed account4]

thanks for the formula ! ... sounds kind of involved ....

i will stick to my brown-stained coffee-film
2 steps ... coffee ( stand 26mins ) then fix ..

 

[Relayer]

Is your H2SO4 concentrate or dilute?

concentrate

Water to make 1L total or 1L measured?

more correct - water to make 1l

This rehalogenates the image, clears the orange mask, then redevelopes the image?

after this film base still colored but more clear than before. I scan this negatives without any problem. i think that optical printing also possible

 

[michaelbsc]

Thanks!