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Developing B&W 4x5 Film

SodaAnt

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Jul 4, 2023
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429
Location
California
Format
Digital
How do you all develop 4x5 B&W film?

I've tried the tray method--hated it. I ended up buying three rubber tanks, stainless steel film hangers, and doing the entire process in the dark using "raise-and-dip" agitation. That was when I had a dedicated darkroom forty years ago.

How do people do it today, and how much is the equipment likely to cost if bought new? I won't be doing high volumes--probably around 10-20 sheets a month.
 
I have a reel for a Jobo tank. It can hold 10 sheets, I think - but I shoot so little, I normally only have two in it.

I tried the tank and hanger thing - hated it.
 
I develop 4x5, 5x7, 8x10 in open trays
 
I use tubes -- which most people think of for processing paper, which, of course, they can do, as well.

There are lots to choose from and they are cheap, cheap, cheap. Some are designed to handle film -- and have internal ridges -- and some are only designed for paper.

I use a Cibachrome 4x5 tube, for a single sheet, and an 8x10 tube for up the 4 sheets. I avoid larger tubes due to the increased risk of slippage. The developer is a BASE and very slippery, so you have to be careful and get the film in exactly right so it won't slip around and mess up development. With B&W, the tubes can be SLOWLY, manually rolled or put on a tube roller (Beseler, Unicolor, etc.) -- $20 on EBAY.

The tubes use basically no chemicals at all -- and it's fresh each time. Tanks and trays waste so much chemical. BUT I do use tanks for final washing.
 
I use a Mod 54 in a Patterson tank for 4x5, but tray develop 5x7 and 8x10 just a few sheets at a time. I kind of enjoy the tray method, and there's less chance of streaking etc. I have a 20th century reel for 5x7, but haven't used it yet.

With the Mod 54 to prevent streaking I do full-inversion agitation. Do the inversions completely, but slowly to prevent dislodging the film. I agitate for 30 seconds at the start of development, then for about 5 seconds every 30 seconds (2 inversions). The Mod 54 is probably not suited to stand-type development methods - may lead to uneven development.

I could use the Unicolor drum for 8x10, but the tray method works so well that I haven't tried.
 
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2509N JOBO reel in the 2520 tank with continuous rotation. I have nothing to complain about.
 
As many answer as people answering! Personnally I use the Stearman SP-445. If you already have the middle size Patterson tank you can get a Mod-54, a 20th Century or a B's reel. If you expect to go larger eventually, you can also look at Stearman's SP-810, which can develop 4 4x5 sheets in a flat daylight tray that also holds 2 5x7 or one 8x10. And there are lots of others.
 
I use Unicolor tubes (the smaller size ones). They can do one 8x10, two 5x7 or four 4x5 sheets and only need 300ml of fluid to completely cover the surface. I have the motorized roller base--you can use the Unicolor one or the Beseler. The setup also works for C-41 developing.
 
I first tired tray development and did not like that for multiple reasons.
I went to FreeStyle which lets one bring back equipment within so many days:
Yankee Tanks sloshed chemistry when moving back and forth across the table.​
I tired several other tanks and ended up with the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum on a PPE+ processor. The Jobo 3010 Expert Drum on a PPE+ processor won hands down with up to 10 4"x5" sheets, consistent development and no problems. I got credit for everything I bought from FreeStyle and I am one very happy camper.​
 
Been using Yankee 4x5 tank for a while but like Sirius says, liquid slosh/spill is a turn off. Thinking on trying somethinh else like Stearman probably. No fan of developing on trays.
 
Stearman SP-445. 4 sheets at a time, so good for your shooting rhythm.
 

Jobo tank and rolling on the table ~$30.
 
JOBO 3010. They are insanely priced these days though so if I lost it somehow I probably wouldn't replace it. I'd probably go the JOBO 2500 route.

No so. With the higher success rate and consistent development, the 3010's cost will be amortized to almost nothing per sheet because more film will be shot.
 
I use Unicolor drums on a motor base.
 
I use a Paterson Orbital tank with a slight modification to raise the film sheets from the bottom of the tank.
And I use it on the motor base. Some go a step further and remove the fins and raise the pins that keep the sheets separated.

Basically a tray size daylight tank. Very economic in developer volume, but limited to 4 4x5" sheets (or 2 5x7 or 1 8x10) per use.
Very little in terms of leaks and splashes, unless you tilt the tank to far during manual agitation.

These tanks are getting harder to find and will set you back between a $100 and $200 today.
 
When I started shooting 4x5 I used an SP-445 tank for development. It works OK, but on the odd occasion I would get issues with uneven development with it, or one/several of the sheets coming partially free of the guide tabs and then getting slightly marred.

I have since moved to using a modified Paterson Orbital, with manual agitation. This works very well. The sheets are now always perfectly developed and free of defects or damage.
 
I typically use a HP Combiplan .
Holds six 5x4 sheets or several other sheet size and plates.
Also got the Patterson Orbital for 7x5 and 8x6 sheets .
I have a Jobo tank for 5x4 , but find it a pain to load .
 
I've had good luck with my SP-445. I have a Jobo CPA-2 and Expert drum, but rarely have enough film to develop to make it worth the bother.
 
Jobo CPE2+ with Jobo 1500 tanks for roll film, and 2.25x3.25 sheets with a custom reel. Jobo 2509 for 4x5, and a Jobo 2830 drum for 8x10 sheets. I still have some small daylight processing tubes I made when I started 4x5. Handy for inversion or semi-stand, as they only need 175ml.
 
Due to life circumstances I've not been able to delve into my 4x5 (or photography in general) very often, but I've occasionally developed some.

I have used a Yankee Agitank, but did not care for it. Some people get good results from them, but I'm not one of them. Used prices are reasonable, though, and it was worth the $20 for me to find out.

I purchased a NOS Nikor 4x5 tank & reel, and the similar B&W King version, but have not had the opportunity to use them yet. This tends to be pricey.

Since I've not done much 4x5 lately, I've used the "Taco" method. This is just when I have two or three sheets.
Basically, take a standard stainless tank that is tall enough for the 4" dimension of the film.
Gentle bend the film, emulsion side in, to the shape of a taco shell.
Put an elastic hair band around the film to loosely hold it in that shape, and put it in the tank. Put the lid on, develop like a reel.

Obviously this isn't the best method, and has potential issues, but it's holding me over until I can do things properly.
 
I have been using B&W King tanks for 4x5 and 5x7.
I recently got a Stearman Press 810 tray setup for 8x10.
The Stearman Press setup can be set up to process either 1) 8x10, 2) 4x10, 2) 5x7, or 4) 4x5.