Developing 4X5 Film Options

[Larry the sailor]

I'm hoping to make the move to LF with a 4X5 camera sometime in the next couple of months so I've been researching what I will need to support developing film and the like. Probably stick with B&W for a while. I've got a good bit of experience there with 35mm and 120 so the basics are covered.
I've been looking at options for developing 4X5 film. Anything except tray or "taco" will require at least some outlay of cash.
Kind of looking at what may be the most popular method and easiest to add on to my existing set up.
The Mod54 insert would be easy enough as I already have the correct size Patterson tank.
I've got a couple of Jobo 4X5 reels and the loader widget (came with a big wad of stuff I bought a couple months ago) but I don't have a Jobo tank of the correct size.
The Stearman SP-445 looks interesting and easy enough to use and seems to be well received here.

Any other current production options out there worth considering?

 

[removed account4]

hi larry

there is tanks+hangers and open tray.
both methods require you be in pitch dark.
open tray requires you to either use a "slasher" or shuffle
and not scratch your film, hangers require you know the
technique to not get surge marks, and have good hangers
that don'tmark your film. there's FR tanks. some people
swear by them. i have a handful of them, and love using them
for stand/partial stand development and sometimes if i am lazy
i load film into them and rock on a pencil gently ... ... there's also the combiplan system
and nikon (?) stainless steel LF processing tanks that are like roll film tanks.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use the Jobo 3010 Expert Drum with my CPP for processing 4"x5".

 

[Larry the sailor]

Everything I've found on the HP Combiplan system shows it as discontinued. The youtube videos I saw on it looked interesting though.

 

[CropDusterMan]

I use the JOBO 2820 (I have the film loading guide too) and a UniColor "Uniroller" with Pyrocat HD.

 

[Malinku]

I use and really like the stearman sp-445. it is nearly as easy to load as a 4x5 film holder. And I get great unscratched negatives. it uses only 500ml of solutions.

 

[vdonovan]

I use and really like the stearman sp-445. it is nearly as easy to load as a 4x5 film holder. And I get great unscratched negatives. it uses only 500ml of solutions.

Another vote here for the SP-445. I get great results and it is SO easy to use.

 

[Bill Burk]

If you are considering spending anywhere near a couple hundred dollars, consider getting an infrared viewer.

Then you can use open trays and watch the film develop.

It's as much fun as watching prints develop.

 

[Larry the sailor]

The IR goggles would have added value for "other" activities so maybe down the road a piece, they don't exactly give those things away.

I've watched several videos for the SP-445 and it looks pretty straight forward.

 

[shutterfinger]

I use Jobo 2521 tank(s) and a manual roller base.
Current 2500 tank http://www.freestylephoto.biz/2520-Jobo-2500-Series-Multi-Tank-2-Developing-Tank
Roller base http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1509-Jobo-Roller-Base-for-Tanks-and-Drums
You may find these on ebay or craigs list at better prices.
Older numbering 2521 tank with funnel lid and center column for film processing with a magnet base, 2523 same as a 2521 but no magnet base but a cog lid.
28XX same tank but with a cup lid and no center column for print processing. 28XX extensions will work on a 2500 tank.
I do not use the loading guide. I lay the 2509n reel on its side on top of the open tank, film slots away from me, and slide the film into the slots furthest from me first.
Tried a FR tank, same as yankee slosher. Hated it. Constant chemical spills and uneven development.
Tried a Combi Plan, slow to fill and drain, always leaked, film came out of the holder unless handled very gently when inverting.
Use 300ml chemicals with rotary processing in Jobo tanks as the 270ml listed on the tank may not cover the edges of the film during rotation.
Jobo requires a pre wash of 1 to 3 minutes.

 

[nanthor]

Does anyone have experience with the Stearman system that results in any issues due to the film resting against the solid plate it is on? I believe they are currently working on resolving this "issue" by making the film holders resemble frames so that the chemicals can wash over the negs on both sides. I am asking because I'd like to get the system but already have the combi-plan and the jobo and don't want another system unless it is definitely an improvement. Thanks, Bob.

 

[summicron1]

Another vote here for the SP-445. I get great results and it is SO easy to use.

-- I'm still learning how to use mine, but when done carefully it seems to give excellent results and uses a lot less developer. Only does 4 at a time, but daylight handling is pretty sweet.

 

[mmerig]

The Mod54 insert would be easy enough as I already have the correct size Patterson tank.

Why not keep it simple and cheap and use the MOD54 insert? I use the MOD54 and it works very well.

 

[paul_c5x4]

I use three different tanks for 5x4

1. Jobo 2509 & tank - Not used very often, and is really only kept as a backup.
2. Paterson Orbital - Great for semi automatic daylight processing of up to four sheets (have the motor base). Often used when I only have a few sheets to process.
3. HP Combiplan - Multiple tanks set up as a dip'n'dunk line. When I have a large batch of films to process, it is my Go-To setup.

 

[howardpan]

I have the Jobo 2509 reel, the Mod54, as well as BW-King's solution (http://www.bw-king.com/).

Mod54 holds 6 sheets while using 1L of developer. BW-King holds up to 10 sheets so it seems like it's more economical. It's fairly well made. I ordered mine on Taobao but I believe you can also order it from eBay.

 

[Todd Barlow]

+1 for the Mod54

 

[Old_Dick]

BTZS tubes. Easy DIY project.

 

[Bill Burk]

Oh yeah, I was going to say use the BTZS tubes... but just remember... you can't use a water rinse and alkaline fix and have the lights on... because you could fog the film more than a trivial amount... (an acid stop would "stop" development, making it less likely that any more than a trivial amount of fog occurs after opening the tube for stop).

 

[mrosenlof]

http://www.davidkachel.com/assets/trayproc.htm

I've been using this technique for about 20 years.

 

[grahamp]

For the OP: Your options seem to be:
Keep the 2509 reel, get a suitable tank and a manual roller base (you can invert these tanks but upwards of 2l of solution is a bit of a chore).
Keep the 2509 reels and go looking for a motorized base (there was a nice DIY one written up on the LF forum in the past month).

Get a Mod54 or the SP445. Selling the 2509 reel stuff would help fund that.

Roller processing has it's own set of advantages and disadvantages, irrespective of format. I obtained a Jobo a while back, and rarely do inversion processing. It suits me.

If I was starting 4x5 now, I'd look at the SP-445. I started out with this DIY alternative: http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/develop.html

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've used BTZS tubes for both 4x5 and 8x10 for years. Excellent system. I have a 25 watt light on when they go in the stop and fix. Never had an issue with fogging.

 

[Larry the sailor]

Thanks folks, I appreciate the input.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Am I the only one that still tray-processes sheet film in total darkness? Yeah, you have to develop your skills so you don't scratch your film, but if you're halfway dexterous that takes a few hours with some scrap sheets. It's cheap, low-tech and the most flexible method out there. By the time many have loaded their tubes, I'm hanging up film to dry... The only reasons I can see for not trying out tray developing are lack of a room you can darken completely or severe lack of space.

Larry, you might give tray processing a try. All you need is 4-5 5x7 trays, dark and a timer of some kind. And, a bit of practice, of course.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Steve Goldstein]

You're not the only one. I tray-process 4x5 for the most part (except when doing extreme minimal agitation); anything larger is always in trays. Life got a lot easier once I figured out how to fully darken my darkroom so I didn't always have to wait until darkest night. As Doremus says, it takes a bit of practice, but it's easy enough to master.

 

[JPJackson]

Open PVC tubes in trays in total darkness as per Sandy King and David Kachel; i do pre wet the film and tubes prior to loading the tubes.