Developing 110 colour film in B&W chemicals

[Simonh82]

A relative has given me a small 110 point and shoot camera with a roll of what looks like Kodak Gold 100 or similar film still attached. He thinks it's been sat around for at least 10-15 years after being shot. He has asked if I can try to develop it and see if I can get any images off it.

I know that the results will likely be fogged and grainy but I'd like to give it a shot. Although I'm starting with low expectations.

I thought I would use HC-110 to try to get a black and white image as my colour chemistry is really old and I've not used it in a long time.

I've never used a 110 camera as I came to film photography after it had just about become obsolete. Can I just unclip the cartridge from the camera in daylight? How do I get to the film inside?

I've only got Patterson reels which go down to 35mm is there a way of adapting one to take 110 film? I don't really want to purchase any new equipment. I don't mind hacking one about as I have plenty of spares.

Also any times for developing gold 100 in HC-110? I've never done the whole colour film in B&W chemistry thing but I figure this is my best chance of keeping the fog levels down.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Truzi]

You can remove the 110 cartridge from the camera in daylight, but you must be in darkness (dark room or dark bag) to remove the film from the cartridge.

This is the first of a 2-part video, and is mainly concerned with re-loading cartridges, but it may give you a few ideas:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h_-8Ix6SdI

The video linked above is concerned with cutting open and reusing the cartridge, which you are not doing.

I think, originally, the cartridges were broken open (not reused). If you can see film or backing paper in the window, u can use an object to push through the window enough to grab and then pull it out of the cartridge (in total darkness).

I don't think a 35mm reel will cut down well enough to work with 110, which is 16mm, but I think Yankee had a plastic reel that would go down to 16mm. If you don't have access to the right type of reel, you may be able to tape the ends of the film over an old length of 35mm film and load it that way - but I don't know how bad that idea is

 

[MattKing]

In my area, there are still labs who can process colour 110 film. I would give it to them.

A Google search indicates that West End Cameras in London will process it for you: Dead Link Removed

It is off topic, but I like this note from that page:
" E-6 Processing
Due to demand we are now able to process E-6 films, these are done by hand."

 

[bsdunek]

I would second Matt King's suggestion. I often use 110, and send my color film out. I do process B&W myself. You can carefully cut the cassette open, break it if you don't want to use it again, or, as Truzi says, if the end is available, just carefully pull it out. All in the dark, of course.

 

[gone]

Just out of curiosity, since there are apparently some individuals here that shoot 110 film, if you got the film, developer, subject and everything spot on, could you make an 8x10 darkroom print that would be "presentable"? I once saw some of Andy Warhol's prints from his Pen half frame cameras, and they looked OK to me.

 

[MattKing]

The 110 Kodachrome slides that my father took during a couple of long distance vacation trips project spectacularly well.

That camera was a near top of the line Kodak, with an excellent lens and a good meter.

I've seen good enlargements from film as small as disk film.

 

[bsdunek]

Is you hold the camera still, focus and expose properly - yes, a 8X10 will be fine. I do use good cameras, Minolta 110 zoom, Autopack 450, Kodak EKTRA series, etc. See the subminiature section of my web site for some 110 photos. The Dansville Fire Station was enlarged to 11 X 14, and looks good. That one is on Lomography Lobster red scale film.

 

[Murray Kelly]

Simon, to get the film out you put a finger on the bit showing in the frame of the cassette to stop it getting pulled back out then poke a knitting needle thru the counter hole in the back. The film and paper will come out of the now empty supply side.

Lights off.

In the dark you pull on the paper, NEVER the film, otherwise the paper will bunch up and jam and the exposed film will not come out easily if at all. The film follows the paper not v.v.
The film is not usually stuck to the paper so don't drop it in the dark.
Load your tank and close it up for the developing session.

Lights on.

 

[Xmas]

If you have a scrap 35 mm film and a small stapler then staple the end of the 110 film emulsion side of the 110 away from the 35mm film and load the 35 mm as normal.

You should be ok.

But you can saw one side of a Patterson reel core to make a 16 mm spool set if you are going to use the camera.

Lomo do mono and c41 or e6 colour still, or did last time I was in their shop.

It is easy to separate the Lomo or Kodak cartridges with a finger nail they don't use much glue. A craft knife can damage a cassette or finger.