Developers, Kodak T-Max 400 film, and rotary Jobo processing.

[A49]

What gives the sharpest results all the way up to 16x20" without getting grainy? I use 4x5", jobo and tmy2 as well

If you enlarge TMY-2 only 4 times linear then grain shouldn´t be a problem at all with the very most developers beside the "special purpose large grain developers" . (These developers are usually not meant for developing negatives but will be able to do that with strange results.)

If sharpness is important for you try Rodinal at 1+50 or 1+100 dilution. Sharp, cheap and easy to use. The special fine grain developers like Xtol, A49, Perceptol, HRX-3 will produce extremely fine grain that isn´t necessary for 4 times enlarging TMY-2. They do it at the cost of sharpness. So better look after sharpness and acutance optimized developers. Rodinal is one of them and if you dilute it enough the results will be relatively fine in grain and surely fine enough for 4 times. Tmax dev and also Ultrafin plus are liquid devs like Rodinal and will also be very sharp, fine enough in grain and convenient.

There are really only a very few developers that will produce grain when you enlarge TMY-2 only 4 times. From my experiences Neofin is one of them. It is the sharpest developer I know by now but it already produced grain when I enlarged 6x9 cm negatives to 30x40 cm (about 4 times linear) with Tmax 100.

By the way, the "sharpest" results you are not able to get with rotation. The very important adjacency and border effects that really enhance acutance and so the sharpness impression of your pictures you only get when you let the developer stand still for most of the developing time.

Andreas

 

[Sirius Glass]

I know A lot easier to cut and paste that, instead of arguing ad nauseam...which means I probably should have kept my post to myself

If you did that:
1) I would not have as much to read.
2) You would never get you post count up.

Steve

 

[MaximusM3]

If you did that:
1) I would not have as much to read.
2) You would never get you post count up.

Steve

True, true

 

[bobwysiwyg]

I have seen references to it, at the risk of sounding ignorant, what exactly is TMY-2? I use TMax-100 and 400 in both 4x5 and 35 mm. I'm looking at a box of 35 mm 400 and I see no reference to -2, it just says 400 TMY.

 

[fschifano]

The rebate markings on the TMax 400 sold today indicate "400 TMY-2" or something close to that. There is definitely "TMY-2" in there. That designation was changed when Kodak reformulated the film a few years back. The box designation didn't change. In any case, it is one kick-ass film. From the first, I could see that it was something really special.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The older TMY is probably hard to find now. All the unexpired TMY would be TMY-2.

Steve

 

[bobwysiwyg]

The older TMY is probably hard to find now. All the unexpired TMY would be TMY-2.

Steve

So, since my 35 mm TMax 400 has no indication of -2 anywhere on the box, it must be older film? Purchased within the past year and has an expiration date of 2012. I'll have to stop back at Huron Camera, where I purchased it, and see if they have anything marked TMY-2, just out of curiosity.

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks, that helps a bunch. Curiosity is now satisfied.

 

[Pasto]

Just to add my 2 cents, I use TMY-2 in 120, EI 320, developed in xtol undiluted for 6:15 in a JOBO, and love it....

 

[Mahler_one]

Hi Tom:

I admit to being a bit surprised about your problems with PCHD and the Jobo. Although I am developing most of my film by inspection using PCHD, TMax cannot be DBI because of a coating on the film. When I develop the "new" TMax 400 in the Jobo I tend to follow Sandy's advice and procedures as he has posted. Such suggestions follow:

<One of the big advantages of Pyrocatechin is that it does not oxidize as rapidly in alkaline solutions as Pyrogallol. However, with very active agitation, as in Jobo at maximum speed, Pyrocat-HD does indeed oxidize. For this reason I recommend very slow rotation to minimize oxidation when developing film in Jobo processors.

My recommended procedures for rotary processing are straightforward and conventional.

1. Start by loading the film into the tubes or drum. With some drums and tubes it may be necessary to load the film wet to make sure there is a transfer of chemicals on the base of the film.
2. Pre-soak the film for five minutes. Distilled water is recommended.
3. Discard the pre-soak water and pour the developer into the drum or tubes and begin development. I recommend a minimum of 50ml of the 1:1:100 dilution per 4X5” sheet of film (20 square inches). This amounts to about 90ml for 5X7, 200ml for 8X10, 385ml for 11X14, 300ml for 7X17, 600ml for 12X20, and 1200ml for 20X24. Remember, these are minimum amounts. With the 2:2:100 dilution the amounts can be reduced by about 20%.
4. Adjust your procedure as follows depending on whether you are using Jobo, BTZS type tubes, or print drums on a motor base.

Jobo — Rotation speed should be at the slowest setting available. This is very important because fast rotation will result in a large increase in general or b+f stain. If it is not possible to slow down the rate of rotation there are other options that will also reduce the amount of general stain. The degree of oxidation that can take place in an alkaline Pyro developer is controlled by the amount of sodium sulfite preservative in the working solution. With most forms of development Pyrocat-HD needs very little sulfite to prevent excess general stain and it is provided by the small amount of sodium bisuilfite in the A solution, which serves two roles: 1) the sodium bisulfite acts as a preservative in the stock solution, and 2) when it mixes with the potassium carbonate alkali it forms sulfite through reaction. However, when we develop film with rotary processing at high rotation rates the amount of sulfite is insufficient and general stain can result.. To counter this I recommend one of the following solutions: add 30% more of stock solution A when making up the working solution, or (but not also) add about 0.3 g/L of sodium sulfite to each liter of working solution. Both solutions have the practical effect of bumping the amount of sodium sulfite preservative in the working solution and this will slow down the rate of oxidation.>

Best of luck. Please let us know if Sandy's suggestions solve the problems you shared with us.