Developers for starting out

[srs5694]

How does one get around the low weights you're dealing with? I have this odd feeling even if I was in the chemistry department at my college they might look at me funny for using their scales to weigh chemicals out...

You need a scale that can measure down to the low weights involved. Something with a 0.1g precision should do OK for most formulas and ingredients, but 0.01g will help if you deal with phenidone or other ingredients that are measured in very tiny quantities. If you've got a 0.1g scale and need to measure a small quantity of something, you might be able to do it by measuring a larger quantity into a liquid and taking an appropriate fraction of that solution. This is often done with phenidone, putting it into propylene glycol. This particular solution lasts a long time, so there's no waste involved, but this isn't true of all such solutions.

You can get 0.1g or even 0.01g scales fairly inexpensively (say, $25 or so) from "off-brand" suppliers, but they're typically limited in their maximum loads. More expensive models can handle small weights but also larger maximums. I've got an inexpensive Escali model that can handle down to 0.05g precision, which is a peculiar amount. If I were to do it again I'd probably get a 0.01g model and use a cheap kitchen scale for items that are weighed in larger quantities.

These measuring hassles, including the need to buy a scale and learn about percentage solutions (if you don't already have or know about these things) is one of the reasons so many here are recommending against mixing your own developers at first. You'll be cramming enough new experiences and knowledge into your head without adding more. Absorb the basics first and then learn about home-brewed chemistry once you're comfortable with those basics.

 

[jim appleyard]

Sounds reasonable. How does one get around the low weights you're dealing with? I have this odd feeling even if I was in the chemistry department at my college they might look at me funny for using their scales to weigh chemicals out...

You can also use the teaspoon method as desribed in Anchell's "Darkroom Cookbook. There's a conversion table in the back of the book that goes from grams-to-teaspoons.

 

[Brandon D.]

Neopan Acros 100

I plan on using Neopan Acros 100 as my starter film. I'm deciding between Rodinal and Xtol as my developers; I'll test out both to see which suits me best. I plan on shooting a lot of portraits (on location and in studio) and fine art/landscapes. What are your experiences with these developers for what I'm trying to shoot? Any tips? Thanks a lot!

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Rodinal will make Acros sing. I haven't tried it with Xtol, though, but it is a really 'creamy' film with the finest grain I've seen in a 100 ISO emulsion. The Rodinal gives it enough bite to become beautiful.
If you're making large prints I think this combination would be fantastic, as the grain is very pleasant looking.

My two cents.

- Thomas

 

[P C Headland]

I plan on using Neopan Acros 100 as my starter film. I'm deciding between Rodinal and Xtol as my developers; I'll test out both to see which suits me best. I plan on shooting a lot of portraits (on location and in studio) and fine art/landscapes. What are your experiences with these developers for what I'm trying to shoot? Any tips? Thanks a lot!

Rodinal 1+100 and Acros are a really nice combination. Read the times and agitation schedule as listed on the Massive Development Chart, and you won't go wrong.

With that dilution and the reduced agitation, you don't have problems with excessive contrast, and you get great shadow detail without blowing your highlights.

 

[P C Headland]

Sounds reasonable. How does one get around the low weights you're dealing with? I have this odd feeling even if I was in the chemistry department at my college they might look at me funny for using their scales to weigh chemicals out...

I got some electronic hydroponics scales off TradeMe (our local equivalent to ebay). They are not expensive & do the job fine for PC-TEA ingredients.

 

[Brandon D.]

Rodinal 1+100 and Acros are a really nice combination. Read the times and agitation schedule as listed on the Massive Development Chart, and you won't go wrong.

With that dilution and the reduced agitation, you don't have problems with excessive contrast, and you get great shadow detail without blowing your highlights.

Thanks! I think I'm going to try that combination out. Is there any difference in grain with 1+100 vs. 1+50?

 

[Tom Stanworth]

personally I would not go near Acros with Xtol - that film needs more acutance for landscapes with details in. I dont use rodinal, but it sounds a far better bet.

 

[P C Headland]

Thanks! I think I'm going to try that combination out. Is there any difference in grain with 1+100 vs. 1+50?

Not sure that you'd notice any difference with the grain, but you may find it more contrasty with 1+50.

 

[nocrop]

I like PMK Pyro best, especially with Tri-X 320 (in 120 size), and often Ilford Pan F+ in either 120 or 135. I don't understand at least one comment on this thread about ruining lots of film while learning to use Pyro. I've had great luck using it, I guess. Pour it in the tank, give it a vigorous twisting inversion once every 15 seconds for about 9 minutes. Use distilled water to mix the developer. Read the Pyro book, which I did, but really, it's a super-easy process. And I don't bother with re-using the developer for the extra staining step. Pictures come out real pretty. I like Diafine and Rodinal, too, but for me, Pyro rules the roost.

Use disposable gloves.

 

[domaz]

I've been using Ilford/Ilfotec DD-X and it's quite nice. It's liquid and super easy to work with (I hate mixing powder chemicals) and works great with T-Grain films like T-Max and Ilford Delta (especially Delta 1600). For a beginner who wants to use modern film emulsion it would be a easy solid choice.