And where i can find that developer
In all cases, i store all the chemicals in my room cupboard where the temp is not so high, and my room AC is strong enough to keep the temp low even i turn it off most of the time.
hi tareq --
while i don't think there is anything wrong with using a different film developer for different situations
sometimes it is best to use 1 all around basic developer, like xtol, id 11, or d76 or a very basic developer like d23 ( 3 ingredients ) and one film ...
generally speaking, it will give you a better foundation / understanding of shooting and developing.
i wouldn't rely on a lab, the people there don't know what you want your film to look like, and you don't know how consistent their
processing is, or if they batch their films ( put a bunch of different asa's together that are "close enough" ...
most commercial labs batch their processing because they don't want to run the machine 2 or 3 or 4 different times )
... so your film may be over or under developed.
one of the biggest mistakes i always read about
is people using 5 or 6 different films and a handful of different developers
and getting upset because nothing ends up like they were told / it was suggested .
good luck !
john
ps. since it is really hot where you are, you might look into a "tropical developer"
that can withstand heat, and give you developing times longer than 5 minutes.
Tareq, there's a great range of tones there
Like you I have no option this time of year so process at 24°C, going up to 26°C in the next month or so. The important thing is to keep all steps as close as possible including the washing.
Great image.
Ian
keep a bottle of water in the cooler
i live in portugal and in the summer i get 24-27 ºc in the tap, i ad cool water to keep my developer at 20ºc, i find that negatives developed in higher temperatures tend to be a tad grainier, especially in low dilutions like rodinal 1+25.
Yes, Para Amino Phenol tends to get gainier on higher temperatures hence the best Rodinal temperature is 16-20C. But when doing this you will introduce a temperature gradient which is less consistent.
So the topic of this thread is more: How to make the best choice of developer in a very warm climate.
In the Netherlands we have now a temperature of almost 30C which is already high for our country. But the tap water is around 12C so for a longer development I can cool down easily. Further I have the option to postpone a week when the temperature will certainly drop.
Well I think you need a Jobo TBE-2+equipped with cryostat instead for warming up with a PT-100.
Exposure will help me to get better details or tonality, it seems i have problem with metering exposure as well the focus,
Yes, indeed the point of focus is not real sharp. It's almost macro so your DOF is not much. But on one point it should be sharp which is in your first photo but not in the second: Blurr, to slow shutter speed?
But I am not sure what kind of gear you're using and what metering technique. However your couch is very nice compared with mine
M.U. (Mirror Up) is your solution. Shutter speeds in medium format under 1/60S are prone to this phenominae. Also on tripod.
How can i use Mirror Up in MF?
Most MF SLR cameras have the knob M.U. to prevent the vibration of the mirror on slower shutter speeds. Well at least my Mamiya 645 pro has so the Hassy will have it too.
When doing studio lighting (flash) you're using the higher sync time while the flash light is maybe 1/1000S so no problem with any blurr pictures.
Delta 100 (modern crystal type film) I should suggest DD-X. And for fixer time 3x the clearing time due to the fact the Iodide is blocking the fix process earlier.
But maybe time to minimize your type of films about 2. And find a practical B&W developer with it.
In case you want to exercise, you're welcome in Holland. Developing 120 roll film: A piece of cake.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Tmax developer will be fine for Delta too.
I think you have to make a selection of less films and less developers to keep everything on track. Also good to make some notes so that you have a record what you've done.
Sucess!
Developed the Delta 100, now just waiting until the wash is finished and apply Photo Flo then see how it is after drying.
Ah, the anticipation of waiting for film to dry...Have fun!
Good to learn, Delta 100 with TMAX dev is not match fine, didn't like the results, so contrasty, and the worse is that i did manipulate digitally and it became wonderful, so now i know that Delta film with TMAX developer don't match as combo for better results.
Thanks again!
Technique is important. You can not judge from one roll if Delta 100 and TMax developer is a good combination or not.
If you have too much contrast in your negatives, you need to develop the film for a shorter period of time.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kalak/4439443114/
A photo with Delta 100 developed in TMAX developer that looks like a combination of perfect exposure and development.
I can't open that flickr website.
I know, but i developed to the desire time with the temp checked, so it means i have something wrong there.
"i can never tell if my negs are good enough or not,"
A good negative prints (scans) easily. Quote from David Vestal.
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